My texturing technique

[Bill Hensley]

When I first got the Sorby Texturing Tool I was told to run the lathe at a very slow speed. For the longest time all my results were crap. I would get it out once and awhile and try again and again to get acceptable results. After much experimentation here is what I've determined works for me:

Speed is my friend, I typically start ~500 rpm
Denser, fine grain wood (e.g. cherry, maple, beech) provide better, more distinct texture
I do my final sanding and seal the wood (I use shellac or brushing lacquer) prior to texturing.

I use a homemade tool rest made of round stock. I drilled a hole in it to insert a 1/4" bolt that stands up ~ 1" so I have a pivot point for the tool. I can control the tool so it doesn't run away if I cant it over. I usually approach the wood from below the center line, raising the tool into the wood. Once you make contact you must maintain contact or the texture pattern is botched. This is critical if you create a pattern with the tool canted over.

If I'm going to highlight the texturing I especially seal the wood prior to texturing. Next I lightly sand the nibs off but I'm careful not to cut into the seal surface. I apply gel stain with an acid brush with half the bristles cut off so it is stiff to get the stain in the texturing. Since the wood is sealed all the stain will wipe off leaving it only where you want it. After the stain is dry I will lightly seal it prior to doing my final finish.

I've included an example of a recent project. I hope this info is helpful but I'm also interested in hearing from others who've had success with the texturing tool.

[Baxter Smith]

Very nice effect on this piece. Thanks for the explanation!

[Michael James]

Thanks Bill for taking the time to explain that. One more for the tackle box!
mj

[Ron Stadler]

I would have never thought that was done with a texturing tool. I don't see how you hold one of those going around the lip like you did on this piece, I'll have to look into one of those tools.

[Don McClure]

How about a picture of your custom tool rest?

[Bill Hensley]

The tool rest is just T shaped. The horizontal bar of the tool rest is 6" long. I drilled the hole ~ 1 1/2 - 2" from the center. No particular reason for where I placed the hole.

The pivot post allows me to control the tool as I went up the edge of the raised rim. Initially I had left the top of the rim untextured but after some consideration I decided to texture the rim also. I attempted to create a little denser texture on the top of the rim to make it stand out a little more from the collar.

If you've tried a texturing tool, chances are it has run away from you at some point during it's use. A fixed pivot point was my solution.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks for sharing Bill.

[Tim Thiebaut]

I bought this same tool when I was buying up all of my first tools last month, after a few practise attemps I havnt used it on any finished project..yet. One thing I was worried about because of something I read somewhere, the diameter of the work piece must be a multiple of the diameter of the textureing wheel, or else you can get the wheel running untrue with each revolution of the lathe, make since? This is what has be worried, I am not that great with math, and figureing out of spindle/box is such and such diameter in relation to the texturing wheel....well I have put it aside until I get more experience under my belt. This may not be true at all, but I read it somewhere and it kind of scared me off useing it for now....when I do get something worth saving at this point I dont want to destroy it by useing that on it yet. I ahve only been turning a little over a month, so in good time for me.

[Mike Peace]

Here are a few examples of some texturing I have done. I seem to do better on flatter surfaces like platters.


176256176257176258
I think I have had better success with spiraling as shown in my previous message:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?141549-Textured-bowl-rims-w-Sorby-texturing-tool&highlight=
I enjoy playing with my Sorby spiraling/texturing system and hope to improve my embellishing technique. I think Sorby calls it a "system" so they can charge so much for it! The Sorby instructions say 500 RPM plus or minus 200 so that is something to play with. I am going to experiment using some liming wax or dark wax. I like your idea of sealing the surface before adding color and will do that.

[Michael Mills]

I believe the Spiraling & Texturing System is different from just the Texturing Tool.
The "system" comes with what Sorby calls a "Graduated Rest" and four cutters. The tool shaft is engraved with a reference line. With the Graduated Rest you do not cant the tool over, rather you reposition the angle with references on the Rest. The tool is always flat on the lathe toolrest, resting on its ¾" flat base.
Before I purchased mine I looked for a "graduated rest" sold separately but could not find it. I am not sure if the shaft diameter is the same on both tools or not.

Anyway, nice job Bill. I appreciate you tip on using sanding sealer first. Maybe I will stay inspired to get out next weekend, chuck up some scrap, and practice some more.



I read somewhere, the diameter of the work piece must be a multiple of the diameter of the textureing wheel, or else you can get the wheel running untrue with each revolution of the lathe
That may be but I haven't heard of it. On a face (platter) the circumstance of the pattern would be changing all the time. Maybe it does apply to spindle applications?

[Cathy Schaewe]

Thanks for posting this. I have one of these, and have not been happy with the results, but haven't played with it enough. I'll try it again, maybe with better results.

[Jeff Luedloff]

This is very helpful and thank you for sharing. I will give this a try, I have had the Sorby Texturing Tool for some time and I have been unhappy with my end results.

Very beautiful work Bill & Mike

[Dan Hintz]

One thing I was worried about because of something I read somewhere, the diameter of the work piece must be a multiple of the diameter of the textureing wheel, or else you can get the wheel running untrue with each revolution of the lathe
This certainly holds true for knurling in metal... unless you're a multiple of the diameter, your first trip around the object will show your knurl pattern slightly off the next go around, leading to a very poorly defined pattern. The solution is to trim down the object ever so slightly until it's a match.

[Bill Hensley]

Tim I've neither heard nor read anything about that, mine is just the standard texturing tool. My suggestion is take a piece of scrap, mount it on the drive screw that should have come with your chuck and just do it. Shear that off and do it again. There are many variables when using the tool. Be sure to try different types of wood and with/without sealing it. Also try to control it free hand then try it with a little C clamp or something to pivot off of. Also experiment with tilting (canting) the angle of approach. When it's tilted it will really try to run away. Then there is also the amount of pressure you apply to the wood. Approaching from the bottom allows me to have better control of the pressure. I'll repeat, you must maintain contact with the wood once it touches or the pattern is botched. You'll see once you start practicing.

Mike, thanks for sharing. Nicely done. Also, please consider sharing some tips of what worked for you. It's like golf, there are multiple ways to achieve the same results!

[Harry Robinette]

Bill
Thanks for the info I can get the texture I wont but never thought about sealing and then staining and resealing.Never said I was very bright.
Harry
PS.Really nice work.