Sharpen a beading tool?

[Joe Shinall]

I just got 2 Sorby beading tools for Christmas and really can't wait to use them this week. Been on a 3 month hiatus from turning as I have been building a new shop and doing a lot of refinishing lately. Just cleared the last bit of refinishing out of the shop for now and cleared away around the lathe and I do believe the new carbide cutting tools and beading tools are getting a lot of trial tomorrow. The lathe has been calling my name and haunting my dreams. Said it would take my first born if I didn't use it soon.

But other than that, question is, how the heck do you sharpen the beading tools? I use a Wolverine jig on a 8" grinder. But since it is hollow in the middle, I'm clueless....:confused:

[Jim Sebring]

I recently got a Sorby 1/8 inch beader. I used a diamond honing plate to tune up the top (non-bevel) side of the tool. I have a Tormek but did not feel any need to use a power tool to sharpen the new addition.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Joe,

I have a set of beading tools and what Jim recommends is what the manufacturer recommended for my set. Diamond hone only.

[Rob Holcomb]

I have the 5 piece Robert Sorby set. My experience has been less than great with the tools and it's all due to sharpening issues. I only sharpen the top as has been suggested but the wood burns, the bead chips and for me they weren't worth the money. Making beads the old fashioned way works a lot better for me.

[Ryan Baker]

Yes, a diamond hone on the flat top surface is the way to sharpen those. I have never gotten any burning from them, but (being scrapers) they do tend to create some tearout. Some woods work better than others.

[Joe Shinall]

Makes sense. Thanks guys!