DT guide

[Mark Baldwin III]

This is probably more for the other DT newbies like myself, as I imagine the more experienced around here have worked out their favorite techniques. This is just a little guide block I made to assist with learning DT's. It's a piece of maple, cut with a 1:7 on either end. The inside has been rebated to fit over the edge of a board. The saw cuts are over-run on purpose...just before anyone thinks I'm THAT bad with a saw:eek:. It was a great help in making a practice piece in some super soft Aspen, that stuff doesn't like chisels at all, and I needed some help. I got the idea to make it while watching one of Tommy Mac's pod-casts. It's a great little helper.

[Matt Benton]

I have a couple made out of purpleheart. Got the idea from Tommy, as well.

Don't consider this an aid to help learning DT's. I have no intentions of ceasing to use mine.

[gary Zimmel]

For the marking gauge it is also a must have for me. I always use it to layout my tail boards.

The dovetails are really coming along Mark. And I understand about working with aspen as I use it for most of my drawer sides.
I use it because it is quite clear, and makes for a good contrast to have the pins stand out. That being said it has it's downfalls because of the softness.
To make a nice clean tail board I do a couple of things. Use a fret saw to clean out most of the waste and then chop half way from the backside with a real sharp chisel. Real sharp.. The finish cuts are done from the front side thus eliminating tear out. By the virtue of how a chisel cuts by going half way from both sides there is no high point in the middle so the tail and pin board seat tightly.
There is one more thing that helps with working with these soft woods, but is not a must. I have another set of chisels that are ground to about 17 degrees.
These cut the through the soft woods like butter but can't be used for anything else as the tips would fold chopping in hard woods.

Looks like it is just about time to do some half blinds..
As a side note maybe add more pins, even when you are practicing.
Good job again.

[Brett Bobo]

Mark,
Clever idea--I'll have to make some myself! I've just started learning to hand-cut dovetails and by cutting the tails first, I've just been setting the angle by feel without a marking gauge and it's worked out well so far. Although, the hardest part for me is sawing along a line so this will help accomplish that, along with cutting vertically along the line when cutting the ends of first tail from a workpiece. I assume the depth of the rabbet matches the thickness of the stock, correct?

[Mark Baldwin III]

Thanks, Greg-I'm using a fret saw, but I believe that my blade has a bit too much width. I need to get some thinner ones. I've been going nuts on chisel angles. To cut in aspen, the chisel won't cut in oak. I'm still trying to find the sweet spot for my two cherries chisel, it is hard to get a keen edge on it that won't roll. But I think I'm getting closer. My other chisels, are doing OK, but they WILL be upgraded as money allows. I'd like to have one or two Blue Spruce chisels to use. I can definitely see why you have a set just for cutting soft wood!
Brett-I've tried cutting tails first too. It seems like a good way to go. The one above was cut tails first. The guide I made can be used for layout, but the real reason I made it was to guide a chisel to fine tune pins. Ideally, the rebate should be at least the width of the piece. I plan on making this one a little deeper. I don't plan to use it as a saw guide. I have one of the LV dt saws with a guide and I'm not super fond of it. I've used it a few times and now it's hanging on the wall. As far as following a line goes...I'm still practicing that as well. I like to just draw lines on the end of a board and try to saw them all straight.

[gary Zimmel]

Mark, for my fret saw I use is a 12.5 TPI skip tooth blade.

[Mark Baldwin III]

Must be having one of those "great minds think alike" moments, Gary, 'cause that's the blade type I was thinking about! All of this is moving me closer to the project I have in mind. I'm just working out the final few skill problems before I get the project wood for what I want to build. And what I want to build is a new tool box for work. Basically, I'm reducing my personal tool selection at work, which means my current box is too big, and I want to down size.

[Chuck Tringo]

I have one of the LV dt saws with a guide and I'm not super fond of it. I've used it a few times and now it's hanging on the wall.

Which LV saw do you have...the Japanese style or the newer western style ? I wasn't too fond of the Japanese style (which they sell with their guides) but i love their western style dovetails saw, and you can't beat the price. I found that the western saw has too little blade below the spine to work with the guides as well.

[Mark Baldwin III]

Chuck- I started with a regular Japanese saw, then the LV Japanese style with the guide. Now I have the set of 3 LV western style saws, they are much better IMO. I get a more confident feel from the western saws. Love 'em!! The LV tenon saws are pretty great too.