Shoulder Plane Size

[Randy Mack]

Can someone suggest how small a tenon can be trimmed using a large shoulder plane (1.25 inch)? I have seen suggestions to purchase the largest shoulder plane, if buying your first. But it seems that the large LN or LV shoulder plane would be hard to balance on a narrow tenon. I know I will probably get some suggestions to get the LN rabbet block plane. But I really want to go with a shoulder plane and possibly a router plane for cheeks. Up to this point I have relied on chisels. I would like to hear what others use and the size tenons they are trimming. Thanks all.

[glenn bradley]

I cannot comment on your specific question but, IMHO I would buy the medium as a first shoulder plane. I would love to have a large one but for the last few years, the medium has done the job and the money went elsewhere.

[Jim Koepke]

But it seems that the large LN or LV shoulder plane would be hard to balance on a narrow tenon.

Since the cheek of the tenon is supposed to be square to the shoulder, a lot of the "balancing" can be accomplished with resting the plane on the cheek.

jtk

[harry strasil]

Shoulder plane, isn't that a rebate/rabbet,dado tool, I don't have one, I use a tenon router I made for the cheeks of tenons, if you are good with a tenon saw do you need something to square the shoulder? Not trying to be cross grain or start an arguement, I just can't fine a shoulder plane in any of the old catalogues, and wonder when they stopped being rebate/rabbet planes and became shoulder planes.

[glenn bradley]

Shoulder plane, isn't that a rebate/rabbet,dado tool, I don't have one, I use a tenon router I made for the cheeks of tenons, if you are good with a tenon saw do you need something to square the shoulder? Not trying to be cross grain or start an arguement, I just can't fine a shoulder plane in any of the old catalogues, and wonder when they stopped being rebate/rabbet planes and became shoulder planes.

A rose by any other name. The Thicknesser became a Planer and the Planer became a Jointer. Hand tools are not immune to the ravages of the American language ;-)

[harry strasil]

Hand tools are not immune to the ravages of the American language ;-)

Boy you said a mouthful there, especially smithing tools and agricultural implements and their consumables. Different areas of the country have completely different names for them. Unless you know what tool or consumable is being referred to, you would have no idea at all what was being talked about or referred too.

Another time when I should have shut up and said nothing, darn Senior Moments are getting more common, pretty soon, even I may not know what the Blue Blazes I am talking about. LOL

Thanks for the come uppance Glen!

[Jim Belair]

I'll second the medium as a good all round shoulder plane size. And good plan to get a router for the cheeks.

Jim B

[Chris Fournier]

I'd avoid the large shoulder plane if at all possible as it's hard to manipulate. I really enjoy the LN bronze shoulder plane because it feels like an extension of your hand. Perhaps it will be too small for you in which case I'd recommend that you look at the LN rabbet block plane because it has a wide iron and it's also easy to manipulate.

I have a 1 1/4" LN shoulder plane and rarely reach for it. Personal preference is all.

[Jim Koepke]

Another thought on this is just how wide of a shoulder will one need to trim?

My shoulder plane is 1" just because it was on ebay and I won the bid on a Stanley #93.

It is unlikely there will be a time when it will not meet my shoulder plane needs.

jtk

[Rick Erickson]

To add more confusion - I have the LN large and small (not the medium) and they both work very well. I love my large shoulder plane and use it without issue. For tenon work you may want to consider a router plane. It does a great job of truing up tenons.

[Randy Mack]

Thank you all for your advise.

[Russell Sansom]

Two things to consider.
I often use the other tenons as a guide. This works quite well, depending on dimensions.
More common practice in my shop is to whack out a scrap of wood that is exactly the same width as height of the tenon off the workbench. The tail of the shoulder plane sits on the wood scrap, the front rests on the tenon. Very neatly keeps the plane from "rolling.". The front to back angle(pitch) won't be a perfect 90 degrees but it's close. So judgement helps get that part right. Better than all freehand.

[Johnny Kleso]

I had a large and medium and sold the medium..
David Charlesworth calls them The Gentle Giants

The bigger they are the longer the starting area of the sole and eaiser to balance unles your just doing small tenons..