Choosing planes

[Jeremy Hansen]

Hi all. I need some advice.

I am just getting into resawing so that I have flexibility of stock. Yesterday I resawed some rosewood, leaving sawmarks. I thought that I would try planing it smooth. Some time it worked well, leaving a great smooth surface. Other times it tore out, or just didn't take off enough to get out the sawmarks. I'm a beginner in the area of planes, and there seem to be so many variables.

First, is it expected that the plane gets sharpened every time it is used? Does it need to be razor/chef's knife sharp to deal with varying grain directions? Also, what plane(s) should be used in the process to go from resawing to a surface that hopefully won't be sanded?

Thanks for your help!

Jeremy

[Jim Koepke]

Jeremy,

Welcome to the Cave by the Creek. Your profile does not show your location. If you are anywhere near Southern Washington, you are welcome to come by my shop for some hands on help with board smoothing.

What planes do you currently own?

Do you have a spare blade for any of them?

For rosewood, I would think you might have to sharpen the blade not only before starting, but during the use. Rosewood is notorious for dulling blades due to some of the impurities that are in the wood. It is also a difficult wood to work.

When ever I have worked with rosewood it seems the even thinnest shaving could cause some tear out. Having a small plane to use on short areas of grain reversal helps. You may also want to look into having a back bevel on a spare blade.

Here is an article about that:

http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/You+Call+It+Dubbing+I+Call+It+A+Back+Bevel.aspx

jtk

[Jeremy Hansen]

Thanks Jim. I've updated my profile. I'm a bit of a ways from Washington, but thanks for the invite. I think it would be helpful to see how to use a plane from an experienced hand with the right tools.

All I have is a small block plane from Lowe's. I have a feeling that it is just the wrong tool, so I am ready to invest in a good plane (or two). After seeing the finish-ready surface on parts of the rosewood, I'd like to pursue planing and avoid sanding. Plus, does it make sense as part of a workflow with resawing?

Jeremy

[Jim Koepke]

Plus, does it make sense as part of a workflow with resawing?

Definitely.

What you get next depends on your patience and desire to rehabilitate old tools.

It also depends on the size of lumber you are working. If your work pieces are small, then you definitely do not need a large jointer like a #8.

The LN Tool Event lists one in Raleigh, NC in January. That is kind of a long drive.

Here is a starting point:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076-Getting-Started-With-Hand-Planes

Here is an article about scrub planes:

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/cSchwarz/z_art/scrubPlanes/scrubPlanes1.asp

If you are working on small pieces you may be able to get by with some of the smaller planes.

A low angle block plane is good for end grain and trimming of pieces and to break corners.

The selection of other planes may depend on the size of your hands as much as the size of your work.

Small hands and small work might prefer a #3, #5-1/4 and a #5-1/2.

Bigger hands and bigger work may find better fits with a #4-1/5, #5 and a #7 or #8.

One thing you might try is to look for adult education classes in your area. I discovered there were woodworking classes in the evening for adults at the local high school. You may not want to take a class there, but they might have some hand planes you could handle to get a feel for the sizes.

You might be able to find some local sources for tools.

jtk

[Casey Gooding]

A block plane is definitely the wrong tool. You'll typically need a higher angle to avoid tearout. You can either use a high angle plane or add a back bevel to a standard plane blade. You will need a very sharp blade. Learn how to sharpen!!! There's nothing more important to know. It takes time and practice, even with a honing guide, but you'll get it.

[James Taglienti]

Many rosewoods have funky grain, reversing and pencil striping etc. Sometimes it does it without any real "figure" changes... i built a coffee table out of cocobolo a few years back and i had to resort to belt sanding and then a lot of scraping. a lot. i was pleased with everything but the top, and i ended up sending it through a wide belt at a cabinet shop and then power sanding it to 600. it had breadboard ends that were driving me berserk.
since then ive worked some more tame rosewoods and they responded well to a sharp #4 or a scraper plane. nothing with the board footage of that coffee table though, i could almost watch the allergies develop as i worked on it :cool:

[Jeremy Hansen]

Well, thanks all. That is good advice. Yesterday was an adventure. I discovered that my dad had his father's No. 4 plane, which he probably bought around 1930. It was pretty grimy, a little rusty, and with the very top of the handle and the back of the frog knocked off. But I cleaned it up pretty well, and did some sharpening. The tip of the knife is convex; I suppose that must be from using an old, cupped whetstone. I will get some new sharpening gear and try to straighten it up. My dad said he remembered that his father also had a jointer; I'm guessing no. 7.

I also made a benchtop vice to hold the stock. It holds it very well and stays clear of the surface. So the steadier piece, a moderately refurbed bench plane, and passably sharpened blade made a great deal of difference. I was able to get paper-thin shavings nearly the width of the blade with little effort. This was scrap pine I had. I'll have to try this setup on some finer woods.

Would it make sense to use this No. 4 for most cleanup after resawing, and finishing it with something like a 5 1/2?

Thanks again!

Jeremy

[Frank Carnevale]

I would pick up a Hock blade for that No. 4 rather than kill yourself trying to get that edge straight. But I am no pro so what do I know :)


Well, thanks all. That is good advice. Yesterday was an adventure. I discovered that my dad had his father's No. 4 plane, which he probably bought around 1930. It was pretty grimy, a little rusty, and with the very top of the handle and the back of the frog knocked off. But I cleaned it up pretty well, and did some sharpening. The tip of the knife is convex; I suppose that must be from using an old, cupped whetstone. I will get some new sharpening gear and try to straighten it up. My dad said he remembered that his father also had a jointer; I'm guessing no. 7.

I also made a benchtop vice to hold the stock. It holds it very well and stays clear of the surface. So the steadier piece, a moderately refurbed bench plane, and passably sharpened blade made a great deal of difference. I was able to get paper-thin shavings nearly the width of the blade with little effort. This was scrap pine I had. I'll have to try this setup on some finer woods.

Would it make sense to use this No. 4 for most cleanup after resawing, and finishing it with something like a 5 1/2?

Thanks again!

Jeremy

[Jim Koepke]

Well, thanks all. That is good advice. Yesterday was an adventure. I discovered that my dad had his father's No. 4 plane, which he probably bought around 1930. It was pretty grimy, a little rusty, and with the very top of the handle and the back of the frog knocked off.

A picture of the frog and damage might be helpful, someone here might have one that would work for a replacement. Otherwise you can adjust the lateral with a small hammer and light taps.



My dad said he remembered that his father also had a jointer; I'm guessing no. 7.

Would it make sense to use this No. 4 for most cleanup after resawing, and finishing it with something like a 5 1/2?

Thanks again!

Jeremy

The clean up order depends on whether the #4 becomes a scrub plane. This could be the case with the blade sharpened convex. If your dad comes across the jointer, then you may be well on your way to neander planing.

jtk

[Jeremy Hansen]

I see. Perhaps I could work away at somewhat straightening the No. 4 blade, and do rough work with it, and buy a new plane for smoothing? I think the jointer is long lost in Salida CO or Salt Lake City. 5 1/2 looks like a comfortable length for me. Sound good?