Cleanning up loose plating

[Jim Belair]

I just acquired an early Stanley #20 circular plane. Its in good user shape but only has about 40% of the plating left and some of that is a bit flaky around the edges. There is no rust on the exposed steel but suspect there may be a few spots under the lifted plating.

I'm wondering what's the best way to clean up the roughness without removing the patina on the steel? LV sells a fine wire wheel they claim does this but I'm not sure I can get a wheel into the nooks and crannies without total dis-assembly of the body. I tried one of the green 3M pads in a small spot but it seemed a bit aggressive (leaving some scratches) and 0000 steel wool didn't seem to have much effect.

I've also heard about WD-40 lifting plating. Not sure if this means lifting loose plating or solid plating. Or as solid as it was in those days.

Thanks in advance (and Happy New Year)
Jim B

[george wilson]

I'll tell you what DISSOLVES nickel plating: Gunk auto parts cleaner!! I left some parts in Gunk for a long time,thinking nothing of it,and it dissolved the plating. Fortunately,I can re plate the parts.

I'd just clean the areas gently with Scotch Brite,I SUPPOSE. You won't get the naked iron bright,though,or looking like the nickel. Be careful the cleaner(whatever) doesn't scratch the nickel. Nickel is pretty hard,though.

P.S.. The Gunk didn't touch the steel parts under the plating,at least!!:)

[David Weaver]

nylon bristle brush will get most of the loose stuff off without marking the metal, but I would rather go over it with fine scotch brite as george mentions. You could even go all of the way to white scotch brite so that no matter what is abraded, you won't be able to see it anyway.

If you wanted to clean things a little, you could use the nylon brush with a metal polish loaded in it.

[Dan Andrews]

I use a brass bristled brush to get the flaking bits of plating off. If further buffing is desired I use a fine auto polish. I don't like scotch brite pads, but then I have never used very fine ones. I am inclined to just oil the surace after brushing and leave the patina(light rust layer) alone. If a part is too rusty to live with then I will strip it completely and buff to a shine with a wire brush in a drill press followed by fine wet or dry abrasive paper.

I stronly recommend minimal removal of old finishes unless the part in question is realy bad. You can always go back and get more aggresive later if you want to, but a tool has only one orriginal finish.

If I had the ability to replate like George does I might consider that option if only 40% of the orriginal plating is remaining.