Looking for advice on using a Southbend 9 to turn wood

[Dan Hahr]

Hi, all...

I was recently given an early model Southbend 9 that is in relatively good shape. It has a 3 jaw Cushing (?) chuck but no centers. I ordered a MT2 live center for the tail stock, but it appears that the headstock is a MT3.

I removed the chuck and it looks like the threads are 1.5" by 10 TPI. I can't find any spur centers or faceplates that will fit this. Does anyone know of a spur center with a straight shaft that i could tighten in the chuck?

Also, does anyone have any insight on where to look for a faceplate or MT3 centers that I could afford to play with? Also, any advice on how to proceed with making a tool rest that I could replace the tool holder with would be much appreciated.

Finally, I have been told that using an old file to make a simple gouge or scraper is an inexpensive way to start turning. What's the easiest way to smooth off the teeth and leave a relatively flat piece of steel?

I'm obviously very new to turning, so any advice will be appreciated, even if that means telling me to spend some money on some basic equipment. However, until I can find a steal of a deal on a real wood lathe, I will have to learn how to play with this beast of a machine. By the way, it has about a 4' bed and seems to be completely intact with all the gears.

Thanks in advance, Dan

[Tim Thiebaut]

Wow I am jealous! I have always wanted an old southbend for turning metal and wood on! I am sorry I cant help as far as your questions go, but there are some very talented people here and someone should be able to give you some good input on it. I do know this, I am pretty sure that JR Beall uses an old southbend lathe in a lot of his wood turnings, I have his book and he mentions useing it in there to cut threads in wood for many of his projects, so you may want to pop him an email on his website, he may have a lot of info for you, I hope this helps a little for you.

[Peter Hay in Aus]

Dan, I have an Australian Version of this lathe called a Hercus 9 inch mine was made here in Australia in 1967. During the second world war the American Company shared their lathe specs with Hercus and the war effort flourished with the partnership. There is an extensive series of sites in the USA re Southbend they have a serial number stamped on the rhs of the bed. A pic enclosed of mine. Using a metal lathe such as this for wood is not for the purist it can have negative effects on the bed of the lathe amongst other things. I have a host of extras with mine and value it highly. There is no comparison in accuracy with wood lathes for the same price IMHO175835 Kind regards Peter.

[Peter Hay in Aus]

Dan, In answer to your question it would be easy to make a device to fit where the tool holder fits I made a similar one for a specific purpose to hold the Dremel hanging on the wall the main aluminium base fits where the metal cutting tool rest fits made on this lathe. The Aussie versions sold a woodturning rest for these machines. In your searching on Google you may find both a Guide to Turning handbook and a spare parts manual both on the net. The tail stock takes regular 2 morse taper Live and dead centres be aware also the lathe I have and maybe yours has sleeve bearings there is a model with ball race bearings that will run at twice the speed another consideration re its useage. There is a Hercus forum on the Aussie U Beaut site with all the urls you could use just substitute Hercus for Southbend then search in America for the Southbend bits. Have success I have Peter.

[Thom Sturgill]

I can't respond to the machine issues, although I turned on one of these in High School in the 60s. My dad had one for his gunsmithing and we occasionally turned wood on it.
A word of caution however - Files are W_A_Y too brittle for turning tools. They do make fairly good HAND or BENCH chisels, but not turning tools. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive set that are good starters.

[James Boster]

You can buy a #3 to #2 morse taper adapter from Grizzly or ENCO and use a regualar #2 spur center. On the threads check your measurements. All Southbends I have seen including mine are 1 1/2 x 8 threads. You can watch the bay for a faceplate but most of those are more for metal turning but can be used for wood. Southbend did make a set of woodturning rests for the 9 series of lathe. I had a set with mine but sold them. Should not be to hard to make one out of some angle or steel rod.

[Fred Perreault]

Don't know anything about the Southbend, but if it is vintage it is usually top shelf. I dare say that many of the older machines and tools have a good chance of surviving longer than many of today's crop of units. It took a while for manufacturers to develop mass use of "high tensile strength steel", robotic machining and packaging, and mass marketing. We get what we ask for, and it seems that the majority want it now, want it inexpensive, and want it easy to use..... there, I've said it again. :)
by the way, there is a site http://www.owwm.com/ that is a great resource for old units.

[Gary Max]

You can buy a #3 to #2 morse taper adapter from Grizzly or ENCO and use a regualar #2 spur center. On the threads check your measurements. All Southbends I have seen including mine are 1 1/2 x 8 threads. You can watch the bay for a faceplate but most of those are more for metal turning but can be used for wood. Southbend did make a set of woodturning rests for the 9 series of lathe. I had a set with mine but sold them. Should not be to hard to make one out of some angle or steel rod.


And we have a winner----------------someone buy James a cigar-------it's really just that easy

[Peter Hay in Aus]

Caution CAUTION remember the fastest speed is real slow compared with 3000 plus normal running speed. I used a spare small Hercus Chuck for many years with a Machine Bolt for a mandrel getting a Custom Made thread adapter 1 inch 10 threads for my Wood Lathes. Personally I would ream lightly the headstock fit the adapter morse sleeve to 2 morse then whatever I put in the 2 morse pull it in tight and true with a threaded rod for accuracy and also safety. Please leave the cigar on the shelf in the store until you find out for yourself as a user or verify my few remarks as a long term user of this type of Lathe. Also reading your posts I understand you have other wood lathes, my best advice is use them for pens Metal for your Southbend. A most handy addition to the metal lathe is a set of imperial collets with the holder and draw bar, in the Southbend you could have a valued friend in making your own everthing such as cartridge pens, spacers etc ad infinitum as I have and do most every day use as a hobby.
Have cautious success. Kind regards Peter.

[Dennis Simmons]

I have made my tools from old files for years. The one thing is to never extend them very far over the rest. I use a bench grinder to shape them, and a one inch belt sander to sharpen. A small grinder works well to hollow out the top, and it does not need to be deep. I sure wish I had a metal lathe, lucky you!!

[Dan Hahr]

Thanks to everyone. I didn't realize a taper adapter was available; I will try one out. I may just get a dead #3 center for spindle turning. I am not sure on the thread size, it may be 8tpi. I measured the widest point of the threads and came up with 6 in 5/8 of an inch (point to point).

I found some good ideas about making wooden faceplates that I think I will try.

Thanks, Dan