It was a good night of Neandering

[Derek Gilmer]

Still working on dovetails and getting quite a bit closer. I got some LV chisels for Christmas and refused to hit em with a normal hammer, so it was time to get or make a mallet.

I wasn't sure if I wanted and angled front like I see on most mallets or a flatter front. So I made one with both :p
Outside layers of some walnut scrap and a center of left over cherry I had. I gotta say for something thrown together it works fairly well. And wasn't sure on grip size so I tapered it a bit. It may serve me for a few days til I make a better one and I may be whacking stuff with it for the next 10 years. I hope for the latter.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ofZhugEFvIk/TR1Di4WvPsI/AAAAAAAADG8/fn-oFQFUvhc/IMG_1426.JPGk
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And with a chisel whacker in had it was time to work on some more dovetails. I am much happier with these. THe center and right most were chiseled out and left a bit proud of my line. The left one was my attempt using a coping saw to cut the waste out. You can see I left a nice straight line!
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[Jim Koepke]

Looks like fun. None of my chisels even the cheap ones ever get hit with anything but a mallet. If it needs more force than a mallet can deliver, then it likely needs sharpening.

My preference on mallets is to make the bottom have a bulge. Just my opinion.

Did you find a preference for straight faced or slanted face chisel driving?

jtk

[Derek Gilmer]

I am leaning toward the slanted face for now. I mainly looked at new commercial mallets when thinking about building this one. What type of bulge are you talking about? I don't recall seeing anything that meets that description. But I have a lot of scraps so if there is a picture of one I'll gladly build a mallet to try it.

[Johnny Kleso]

Nice Work..
I like to make my handles with knob my hand so it doesn't slip off..
I think thats what Jim was trying to say also :)

[Mark Baldwin III]

Looking good!!! I spose I should spend some time practicing today!

[Joe A Faulkner]

I caught the Neander Syndrome this summer, after 25 years of exclusive power tool use. The condition started last July, in the middle of my shop remodel which is still underway. So as a result, I've mostly been reading and collecting a few old tools. Nine hand planes, one draw knife, one spoke shave, one scraper, one keyhole saw, a set of bench chissels, a set of mortise chissles, a set of waterstones and one old rusty Disston D8 later, I still haven't started my first build. I need to add a few back saws to the collection, finish the shop remodel and build a workbench.

It is encouraging to see others making their first steps and making progress. As the title says, I am a little envious but also encouraged. Looks like you are making progress.

[Jeff Hamilton Jr.]

Way to go Derek . . . they already look better after only a couple! Keep up the practice and you'll be an expert in no time :D

As for mallets for dovetails and other like tasks, I tend to favor the carvers mallet -- I got mine (the heavier one) from Lee Valley and it's been in service for about 7 years with no appreciable wear.

Blue Spruce has taken the form to a whole 'nuther level: you can find it here http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=MLTRND1. A bit on the expensive side, but I'm sure it's fun to use!

Good luck.

.... and HAPPY NEW YEAR!

jeff

[Derek Gilmer]

Nice Work..
I like to make my handles with knob my hand so it doesn't slip off..
I think thats what Jim was trying to say also :)
Ahh yes I gotcha now. This mallet had that...but it the handle was about 9" longer to start with. Again to see what felt right. When I first built it she was more like a wooden sledge I think. It weighed in at 42 oz and had a 22" handle. I can always trim it down I figured but making it bigger would be a challenge.

I've got it trimmed down to 19.5 oz according to the loml's kitchen scale which feels pretty good. And keeps me from whacking to mightily with it :)

[Jim Koepke]

I am leaning toward the slanted face for now. I mainly looked at new commercial mallets when thinking about building this one. What type of bulge are you talking about? I don't recall seeing anything that meets that description. But I have a lot of scraps so if there is a picture of one I'll gladly build a mallet to try it.

Here is an old picture of some of my mallets. The two good looking ones are store bought.

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The one that looks similar to yours has a bulge at the end of the handle.

The hunk of oak mallet at the bottom has had its handle carved a bit more for finger holds and a thumb rest. It was inherited from a friend who never got around to finishing it. Now it looks like it was made for a six fingered user. That is so it can be held close or a bit further from the action.

As I recall, it was salvaged from an old pallet.

jtk

[gary Zimmel]

Looking much better Derek.. One thing that does help me is a scribed line instead of pencil.
The scribed line gives the tip a of sharp chisel a nice reference to sit in making it a snap to keep the baselines straight.

[Derek Gilmer]

Looking much better Derek.. One thing that does help me is a scribed line instead of pencil.
The scribed line gives the tip a of sharp chisel a nice reference to sit in making it a snap to keep the baselines straight.

I've suspected and read the same. There is a LV marking gauge on the way now along with a few other goodies. I've been trying to mark then score with a straight edge and marking knife but it isn't fast or as exact as I'd like.

I do like the look of the round carver's mallet. But I'm afraid that I'd just chase it all over the shop when I set it down on the side instead of top :)

So far having tried cutting dovetails in pine, cherry and red oak. Red oak is by far my least favorite, then pine and then cherry.

[Jim Koepke]

Like Gary said, a scribed line is a good reference point.

My work is mostly in soft pine. Striking right in the marked line can cause the chisel to move into the non-waste area. Often I will work the chisel by hand and cut in from the waste side to make a notch at the reference line. Sort of like what many do when sawing to get a good finish on a cut. Working the notch down a bit helps to keep the "show edge" in good shape.

Another approach is to whack out the dovetails a bit into the waste and then come back and pare to the line.

jtk

[Dan Andrews]

I have one good heavy mallet that I have had and used for years. I want a lighter mallet for fine work, so I decided to build one. I used a short length of iron wood limb about 3-1/2" in diameter for the head, and a longer piece of hickory about 1" in diameter for the handle. I drilled a 3/4" hole through the head, then sawed a shoulder on the handle and paired it down with a chisel to 3/4" diameter. I was able to just tap the handle through the head. I then chiseled a tiny mortice through the end of the handle which protruded about 3/4" beyond the head. I then cut a tapered peg or wedge and drove it through the mortice. Wow, instant mallet...I thought.

The pieces of tree limbs that I used were both drying in my garage for about 2 years. I thought 2 years should leave my mallet parts good and dry. However I had peeled the bark off both pieces the same day I built the mallet. The next morning I picked up my mallet and the head was so loose it would have fallen off if not for the wedge holding it on. I guess I should have peeled the bark off 2 years ago.

The mallet otherwise has a nice balance to it and fits my hand well so I will try to save it with either a shim in the hole or a wooden keyway cut into the head hole and the handle's round tennon.

Oh well, live and learn.