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View Full Version : Removing Scratches from Acrylic



Connie Gill
12-30-2010, 8:39 PM
Hi all,

I lucked into a huge amount of laser-engraveable inventory for next to nothing recently. Most of it is in excellent shape but there are a few pieces of acrylic awards that are out of boxes and have gotten scratched up. Is there something I can use to rub out the scratches? Or do I just use them for practice?

Mike Mackenzie
12-30-2010, 9:02 PM
Connie,

There is a polish called Novus that should polish up those acrylics. They have three different types for different scratch levels.

You can get it from almost any plastic supply company or just google "Novus Polish"

Here is a link to the MFG's website http://www.novuspolish.com/

Larry Bratton
12-30-2010, 9:08 PM
Maybe I'm not using Novus right, but I have been attempting to use it for a couple of years now and I have found it to be pretty much useless. It may be possible to buff scatches out via some method, but not with this stuff. Maybe someone can render some advice here on how to make it work.

Chuck Stone
12-30-2010, 9:09 PM
the Novus comes in three grades, Novus 2 is the finest. (one is just a cleaner and the other is for coarse
scratches) There's also a product called Hut Ultra gloss plastic polish that I often use after
the Novus 2. It should bring up a gloss fairly quickly. Works well on a buffing wheel, too.

Dee Gallo
12-30-2010, 9:21 PM
I find micro-sanding pads to be a lot more effective for removing scratches from plastic than polishes. You can remove most of the scratch with standard automotive wet-dry sandpaper first (I use 400-600). Then progress through the micro-grits from 1500-8000. It's a lot faster than polishing and will come out as shiny and smooth as possible even though at first it looks like you just ruined the piece...

You can get them from places like LeeValley.

:) dee

Chuck Stone
12-31-2010, 8:36 AM
I use the MicroMesh sheets too, and they work well. They should be perfect
for acrylic, I've heard they were designed for polishing out scratches in
aircraft windshields.
I keep several sets for different materials (don't mix wood and aluminum!) and
I keep them in a small tupperware container with soapy water. The soap acts
as a lubricant (just a couple of drops of dish soap works well) and also helps
to keep them from loading. Sanding wet also helps to keep them from melting.
I usually follow the 12,000 grit with the fine plastic polish, though. I wish I
could find my chart with the grit comparison for sandpapers, micromesh and
pastes/polishes . Sometimes I was going backwards in grits because I didn't
know which one was finer. (can't see it by eye)

I've been getting the pads from peachtree woodworking. Prices seem to be
20-25% better, but might also depend on who is giving away free shipping..

Connie Gill
12-31-2010, 11:07 AM
Thank you all so much! I knew I would get the answer I needed on here.
Happy New Year to everyone!

Neil Pabia
12-31-2010, 1:21 PM
I keep several sets for different materials (don't mix wood and aluminum!) and
I keep them in a small tupperware container with soapy water. The soap acts
as a lubricant (just a couple of drops of dish soap works well) and also helps
to keep them from loading. Sanding wet also helps to keep them from melting.
I usually follow the 12,000 grit with the fine plastic polish, though...
A small amount of bleach mixed in will also help keep them from getting scummy.