Newbie question - Edge Joining methodology

[Tim Farrell]

All - I am newly addicted (18 months) to woodworking. My current project has led me to edge joining several pieces of cherry stock (various thickness) together. My problem is that, the joint is always a little off (one side slightly higher than the other). Advice?

Here is what I do.

I run the edges on the jointer
I run the face on the jointer
I plane to the right thickness

I then cut the board to two pieces which will be joined.
I place the two pieces on a flat surface and add glue to one side
Loose Clamp the pieces down to the flat surface
Last clamp the pieces so the edges pull together
Tighten the loose clamps to the ends from rising

this is when I can run my finger along the seam and find that there are high/low spots.

Any help is appreciated

[Bob Smalser]

The last step is to use a mallet to get those edges that moved during clamping flush.

The main reason they move around is the clamps aren't as perfect as your joints. Use spacer and riser blocks to insure the momentum of those clamps is dead center with your joint, and you'll experience less of this...that becomes much more important when gluing up joined panels.

I use the bar clamps (cleaned of glue drops) to lay the workpieces on and for every clamp onthe bottom of the layup I put a clamp on the top for even pressure.

Another challenge can be your glue....some "creep" under load more than others....as long as you are there to catch it it's no problem, so be sure to monitor those glueups every half hour or less until they set solid.

Also make sure you are alternating the board cups...the growth rings....so iof they warp they tend to counteract each other.

[Steve Cox]

Your jointing process is a little off also. The proper way is to run one face on the jointer to flatten it and then to run that face against the fence when edge jointing. With boards where you might get edge chip out like where the grain runs off the edge of the board you should joint a face then run the board through the planer to make two good faces so that either could be used against the jointer fence when doing the edges.I also like to use cauls across the top and bottom of the panel when gluing up. Use two boards each at least 1.5" thick and clamp them together with the panel in the middle to keep the panel from cupping and the boards from shifting.

[Steve Clardy]

I don't surface material to the thickness I need first. If I need 3/4 material, I rough surface to 15/16 or 7/8, edge the boards, glue them up, then run back through the surface planer to 3/4. But of course your planer has to be wide enough to handle the width of panel you are glueing up.

[Ted Shrader]

Tim -

First, Welcome to the Creek. Lots of good info to be had here.

Let me add one more suggestion to the others already given. Without clamping your boards down to the bench, start at one end of the glue up and clamp. Then move to the next clamp in the series and tighten it as you check the joint on the center. The boards can be adjusted to make that portion of the joint flat. Continue down the row of clamps. Also put your clamps on alternate sides of the glued up boards.

Welcome,
Ted