Rubbing out lacquer

[Paul Heagen]

I am making an electric guitar and have some questions on rubbing out the lacquer (I am normally more of a rubbed oil guy, soI'm out of shape on the subject).

I am using nitrocellulose lacquer and want a mirror finish when I'm done, so al of these questions are with highest possible gloss in mind, not just what is OK to use:

How long should I wait for the lacquer to cure?

What is better for highest gloss -- using thinner or water as the lubricant? Is there anything to this approach of using Woodlube with the water?

Has anyone used the micromesh papers that go to 12000 grit?

Thanks for any help.

[Bob Smalser]

I use hard felt pads with one or two grades of pumice (depending on flaws inthe finish) followed by rottenstone followed by Brownells.com stock finishing compound in their finest grade.

A seperate pad for each grit is required, and I use mineral oil to make a slurry.

The longer the finish cures before rubbing out, the higher the polish possible. That takes 30 days or more with varnish, and the advantage of lacquer is cures to its max hardness much faster, depending on the formulation...from a couple days to perhaps 1-2 weeks.

[Paul Heagen]

I use hard felt pads with one or two grades of pumice (depending on flaws inthe finish) followed by rottenstone followed by Brownells.com stock finishing compound in their finest grade.

A seperate pad for each grit is required, and I use mineral oil to make a slurry.

The longer the finish cures before rubbing out, the higher the polish possible. That takes 30 days or more with varnish, and the advantage of lacquer is cures to its max hardness much faster, depending on the formulation...from a couple days to perhaps 1-2 weeks.

Bob,

Thanks for the reply. That has been my routine as well, but I was just wondering if anyone had any experience to suggest which approaches might result in a higher gloss:

water versus thinner as a lubricant
water alone or water with Woodlube
regular wet sanding followed by pumice/rottenstone or the new micromesh

I agree with you on the timing. Some of the luthier forums say wait 30 days or more on lacquer, which seems needlessly long to me.

[Steve Jenkins]

I now use an oil for lubricant. In the past I used water but found it didn't hang around too well. Mineral spirits tends to evaporate too fast and wool lube works well when steel wooling for a satin finish but I don't like it for high gloss. I will wetsand to around 2000 grit then use a bonnet and electric buffer with a fine compound then a "swirlmark remover" , then a finishing wax or somesuch for the high gloss. check your automotive finishing suppliers for products.
I've done the whole process by hand but it sure is faster with a few electrons spinning that lambswool bonnet. Steve

[Steve Wargo]

the swirl mark remover. I like the Macquire's Auto Swirl mark remover. It works quite well.

[Keith Outten]

I use the white Scotchbrite pads and Johnsons Paste wax. Mirror finish in minutes using my ROS. This is a technique I stumbled upon when I had to repair a very expensive dining table for a local Doctor.

Real simple, real fast and real cheap...but it works :)