Bandsaw question.........??

[Butch Butler]

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I am rebuilding my old 14" import bandsaw. In the process of tearing it down, I see that the upper guide blocks are fiber and the lower ones are steel. Is this mixture ok or often done? Which is preferable? I haven't done a lot of bandsaw work, plus I've been inactive in the hobby for several years.
I would also appreciate your input as to the initial clearances for the guide blocks?
Thanks for your collective expertise......Butch

[Greg Portland]

Hi Butch, both materials are common. Google "Cool blocks" to see a modern version using new materials. As part of your rebuild, I would avoid the steel (it can damage saw teeth easily) and stick with wood blocks. Lignum Vitae is the best wood for this but any oily, dense wood will do a good job. You can of course buy some Cool blocks which will also work.

[glenn bradley]

Cool blocks are inexpensive, already sized for most saws and work well. Steel is not a problem on a properly aligned saw. The time you fail to set your thrust correctly and take all the set out of your teeth makes a usable blade a throw-away. This is what I believe Greg is talking about. Any material softer than your bandsaw set will not do this so; wood or the graphite impregnated cool blocks would be OK.

It is a matter of choice but I prefer bearing guides. They are, of course, more expensive since your saw is not already setup to accept them. You shouldn't have to force your blade to stay on path but, the greater surface contact of blocks is preferred by some and ceramic versions come on many larger, higher end saws.

Until I got the feel for it, I would wrap a strip of typing paper or a dollar bill around the back of the blade. Hold the loose ends in front of the blade and slide your blocks in till they touch. My smaller saw uses blocks and I would set one side with the paper as a shim then wrap the paper and slide the other block up against the blade and the first block and your all set.

If you change your blades often for different purposes; thick material, thin material, hard and soft woods, ripping, crossgrain cutting and curves, this will become almost automatic. After a dozen blade changes or so you will start to just eyeball this with good success. I just Googled "setting bandsaw guides" and found this video (http://videos.americanwoodworker.com/video/Setting-up-a-bandsaw-blade-guid) showing the dollar bill method.

[Bobby Knourek]

For guide jaws any material will work as long as you set the jaws to keep your blade from twisting.
Try and reduce as much friction as possible when setting your jaws, you dont want them to work, or come into contact with the body of the band untill you make your cut.
This goes for the guide wheel as well.
I recomend the cool blocks under the table and the steel jaws above the table...
this is so you have the protection of a guide down below, but dont have to worry as much if there is a bad setting,
which would wreck your blade and or jaws.
The steel jaws set above the table can be dialed in, and always monitored for adjustment.(and really do 90% of the work when set close to the material being cut.)

Good luck,
Bobby.