Advice on Biscuit Jointing a Corner

[Dan Mages]

I am about ready to join the two pieces of my table's leg. The two sides are 2.5" inches wide and joined at a 45 degree angle on the outside corner I want to join the two sides of the legs with biscuits, which I have never done before. What is the best size biscuit to use? I am thinking of using a #10 biscuit. What about the fence depth? What depth should I use?

Thanks for the info.

Dan

[Dale Thompson]

Dan,
I'm not sure that I totally understand your question. Use the biggest biscuit that you can with table legs. #20s are about 2 1/4" which may be a tight fit for a 2 1/2" piece. If the biscuits are going into the 45 deg. miter, you will have over 3" to work with.

Either way, for table legs, I would double-biscuit the assembly. In that case, the fence depth would be 1/3 of your material thickness. The depth of cut would be automatically determined by your biscuit joiner depending upon your choice of biscuit sizes (ie #10 vs #20).

I hope that this helps but, as I said, I'm not sure that I understand your question.

One last thought. My beautiful DeWalt Biscuit Joiner, except for joints which are CLEARLY visible, has become somewhat of a dinosaur. The Kreig Pocket Hole System is less expensive than a biscuit machine and much more convenient IMO. Biscuits require; cut the slots, apply glue and clamp the joint until the glue dries. The pocket hole system requires only that you drill the holes for the joint, apply glue, clamp while you insert the screw(s) and unclamp for the next joint. No more black eyes or bruised shins from all those clamps which are trying to attack you. :)

Dan, I'm sorry if I am way off base. :o

Dale T.

[Mark Singer]

Dan,

Try it on scrap the same size first! A 10 is probably as big as you can go or you may cut through the face.

[Bill Arnold]

Dan,

Another option to consider is no biscuits. If you're gluing long grain to long grain, you could use the method depicted in the graphic in the link below. Lay the pieces to be joined on the bench with the inside faces down and apply packing tape along the length of the joint, making certain it's smoothed out and firmly attached. Then, flip the assembly over, apply glue along the miters, bring the miters together and secure them with blue tape. This process works with solid wood as well as plywood.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=125032&postcount=2

Regards,

[Carl Eyman]

By gosh that is pretty neat. Darn smart, these woodworkers!

[Mark Singer]

Bill is correct you don't need bisquits and the tape is a great way to go

[Jim Becker]

The tape clamping is a time-tested method for assembling joints like this, but I'd still be more comfortable with a bit of internal reinforcment. If this were just a trim piece, or something, no biggie, but with the stresses possible for the assembly some other reinforcment such as a hidden spline or the aforementioned biscuits are very much appropriate. 'Can't hurt!

BTW, Dan, be really careful with your biscuit selection and how you set up your joiner...Mark already eluded that it's very easy to over cut on these miter joints and that would not be a "happy word" situation!

[Michael Stafford]

I almost always reinforce joints such as you describe with biscuits. They accomplish two things for me 1) aid in alignment of the corner and 2) reinforce the joint.

You did not mention how thick the wood is that you are joining but I will assume it is 3/4 ". If that is the case you will not have any problem using a #20 biscuit providing you locate the biscuit slot the correct distance from the face.

Use some test stock of the same thickness mitered to test your slot placement and you will be okay.