Cherry Finish

[Rob Holcomb]

I'm looking for information on what to use to make a dark Cherry Finish on Cherry wood. I have a project that I'll be starting that the client wants a Cherry finish that is dark. I know Cherry wood darkens over time but she would like it darker to begin with to match what she already has in Cherry furniture (her current furniture is so dark, it's almost a Black Wlanut color). I told her that if it's dark to begin with, it will end up darker than the rest of her furniture but I can't sway her and she's spending the money so she gets what she wants. Any ideas?

[Scott Holmes]

Use an alcohol or water soluable dye. Stain on cherry is very risky.

Best way to get an even col0r is to spray the dye. I like alcohol dye best, it dries very fast and when sprayed there is no need to wipe it. As for color that's something you will need to determine, since you have seen what you need to match. TransTint dyes are very good as are most powered dyes. Better to use the dye a bit lighter than your final color and apply 2 coats to get it darker and even. Overlap your spray pattern exactly 50% otherwise you will leave darker stripes.

Practice on scrape until you can do it in your sleep.

[Bob Wingard]

Two wet coats of Charles Neil's Blotch Control + dye for color - your choice - I like TransTint & General Finishes + topcoat of your choice.

The Blotch Control, to me, is an absolute must. Once I used this stuff, I'll never finish Cherry again without it. It allows the dye to color lumber/veneered ply/sap wood all to match, so you'll never have to cut out sapwood or work around it again. I've used shellac & other methods of wood conditioning prior to dye/stain, but this beats them all. Application of dye can be spray or simply wipe a very wet coat and immediately wipe back the excess. The Blotch Control is very forgiving in that respect.

[Scott Holmes]

Bob,

I have a couple of questions...

Does this blotch control allow you to make the wood dark or does it limit color like all the other prestain conditioners? e.g. maple to dark mahogany or dark walnut color.

Do you mix the TT dye with water or DNA to use after this product?

Do you have a local outlet or is mail order the only way to get the stuff?

Thanks for the info...

[Adam Jackson]

I like to seal with a 50-50 mix of laquer-laquer thinner if im spraying or polyurethane/ mineral spirits mix if im brushing. Then will both prevent blotching and uneven stain but you will lose some color. Its best to try it out on small pieces of scrap and let the client pic the color he or she likes to prevent future problems.

[Bob Wingard]

Bob,

I have a couple of questions...

Does this blotch control allow you to make the wood dark or does it limit color like all the other prestain conditioners? e.g. maple to dark mahogany or dark walnut color.

Do you mix the TT dye with water or DNA to use after this product?

Do you have a local outlet or is mail order the only way to get the stuff?

Thanks for the info...


When using the Blotch Control followed by dye, the Blotch Control acts as an intermediate layer. It seals the wood, and you are actually dyeing tha B.C. It's a lot like the Candy Apple coloring of the 60's where you did a base coat of metal flake or pearlescent, then topcoated with tinted clear N.C. That is what makes the B.C. help blend the sapwood/plywood/heartwood. The B.C. is transparent, so the grain shows through clear and crisp, but picking up the color of the dye. It also makes the dye application more tolerant to different application techniques. The latest project where I used it, I simply ragged it on, then wiped it back. If I had any light/dark spots, just blend them in with a rag dampened with the dye.


I use the TransTint mixed in water as I'm not too concerned in this instance with needing super fast drying. The water base makes the dye a little more workable ... gives it more time to move it around before it drys.

The is no local source for it, but if you buy a case (4 qts.) he ships it free, and there's no hazmat fees, so it becomes much more affordable + I think he's having a sale this week.

You may/may not like it, but you surely owe it to yourself to try it out. I did a large, Federal Style Cherry bookcase with veneered plywood mixed with some 50-60 year old lumber with a few sapstreaks ... the finish makes it almost impossible to fin the ply & sap. The grain shows through beautifully and there isn't a trace of blotching. I have absolutely no connection to Charles Neil or his Blotch Control except as a very satisfied customer.