Is the brake on a band saw worth $150? Grizzly G0513X2 vs G0513X2B

[Rick Cicciarelli]

Just what the title asks. I am comparing these two band saws and wondering if the brake is worth the extra $150?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Rick,

That is really a decision you have to make. I know that having a brake was an important factor in deciding what bandsaw I bought. I find it comforting to be able to not take my eyes off my fingers when they are in close proximity to the blade and just be able use a foot to stop the blade. But that's me. The brake on my saw shuts off the motor and is also a mechanical brake on the drive wheel.

[Cary Falk]

I would find more use in a foot brake than an electric brake. I like the idea of being able to shut off the saw with my foot if needed. I don't care if i takes a minute or 2 to coast to a stop. I have the G0513X2.

[Steven Hsieh]

If I would buy one, I would get the brake.

A brake is great for backing out your wood faster.

I agree what Cary Flak said, a foot brake is better. If you can afford another $300 more for 1HP extra and foot brake, it would be best.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/19-3-HP-3-Phase-Extreme-Series-Bandsaw/G0514X3

[Michael Heffernan]

I have the Grizzly G0514X2 and prefer the foot brake to an electric brake. For one thing, as the foot brake also shuts off the motor, as Ken noted, I use it almost exclusively for shutting the saw off. I like to keep both hands on the workpiece and not be distracted by reaching back to hit the kill switch. I rarely use the brake unless I am doing a run of resawing. IMO, go with a mechanical foot brake/kill switch (G0513X2 or G0514X2).

[John Coloccia]

I don't see any reason why you can't wire a foot switch to any magnetic switch, including the Grizzly. If I had it to do over again, I would have ordered the one with the brake because these big saws take FOREVER to slow down, and the dynamic brake is faster and more convenient than a friction brake IMHO.

FWIW, I have the G0514X2.

[Cary Falk]

IMO, go with a mechanical foot brake/kill switch (G0513X2 or G0514X2).

Just to clarify, the G0513x2 does not have a foot brake.

[Russ Kupiec]

Brake, Yes, yes.! Bandsaws are really quiet. The blade is small and shiny, hard to see travelling vertically. The brake is a reality check. It makes noise and requires you to focus on your foot pressure. Helps your brain keep your fingers away from the blade. My first bandsaw had no brake and I always had a piece of scrap to feed into the blade to slow it down after I killed the power. The brake is a better and safer addition.

[Dave MacArthur]

G0514X2 19" Extreme Bandsaw-3HP, Single Phase (http://www.grizzly.com/products/19-Extreme-Bandsaw-3HP-Single-Phase/G0514X2)
That's the 514x2 that has the footbrake, the other link up above is the 3-phase.

Brake--Yes, it is worth the $ IMO. For all the reasons above Ken states. Two months ago I would say the 514x2 was "the one". However, John Coloccia makes a good point (we already had a thread on exactly this topic a month ago, and all of us here are just re-hashing our points;) ). You COULD add a microswitch to the motor brake version... but you know, that's a lot of work to cut a slot, fabricate up a footbrake with a spring and lever and pivot point and microswitch... How many folks are REALLY going to do that? Probably not too many, and I know I would never get to it.

Shiraz Balolia posted about the motor brake (B models like 514xB) and he was very enthused about it, and I daresay he knows more about it than most of us, so I've re-opened my opinion on this... still thinking footbrake, but willing to be convinced, and REALLY think the 514x2B should come out--motor brake AND footbrake w/ microswitch to activate it).

For what it's worth, after 2 years of studying bandsaws, I decided on the G514x2 as "the one" myself.

[John Coloccia]

G0514X2 19" Extreme Bandsaw-3HP, Single Phase (http://www.grizzly.com/products/19-Extreme-Bandsaw-3HP-Single-Phase/G0514X2)
That's the 514x2 that has the footbrake, the other link up above is the 3-phase.

Brake--Yes, it is worth the $ IMO. For all the reasons above Ken states. Two months ago I would say the 514x2 was "the one". However, John Coloccia makes a good point (we already had a thread on exactly this topic a month ago, and all of us here are just re-hashing our points;) ). You COULD add a microswitch to the motor brake version... but you know, that's a lot of work to cut a slot, fabricate up a footbrake with a spring and lever and pivot point and microswitch... How many folks are REALLY going to do that? Probably not too many, and I know I would never get to it.

Shiraz Balolia posted about the motor brake (B models like 514xB) and he was very enthused about it, and I daresay he knows more about it than most of us, so I've re-opened my opinion on this... still thinking footbrake, but willing to be convinced, and REALLY think the 514x2B should come out--motor brake AND footbrake w/ microswitch to activate it).

For what it's worth, after 2 years of studying bandsaws, I decided on the G514x2 as "the one" myself.

Actually, I wouldn't make a slot at all. I'd buy a momentary off foot switch and wire it in series with the coil on the magnetic switch. Very simple AND you can move it to wherever you want. I had to turn a finial for a client this past week. I had to get a chunk of wood out of a 16/4, 6' long board of mahogany. After I made the cut, the board closed up and I couldn't back it out (I know I shouldn't anyhow, but like everyone else I live in the real world and sometimes do things I shouldn't). I couldn't reach the foot brake, it it took quite a bit of doing to get everything shut off without ruining anything. The only reason for the foot brake on the side of the saw is to activate a friction brake. A footbrake for the dynamic brake is nothing more than a foot activated switch that can live anywhere.

Since you're only interrupting the coil to a relay, I would bet that's on the order of maybe 1A, so practically any switch will work. Honestly, this has come up SOOOOOOO many times I'm a little surprised Shiraz hasn't thought to make a footbrake retrofit kit. I'm actually seriously considering making one available myself just for the sake of helping out my fellow woodworker.

[Dave MacArthur]

Oh yeah, didn't think of that--was still thinking about applying friction too ;) good point. You probably made it before, which is why I was almost convinced--I knew there was a reason I was thinking you were clever on that footbrake ;)

[Rick Cicciarelli]

How did we switch from talking about the GO513X2 to talking about the G0514X2? I figured I was stretching the budget guidelines by looking at the G0513X2...one has to draw the line somewhere.....

[John Coloccia]

How did we switch from talking about the GO513X2 to talking about the G0514X2? I figured I was stretching the budget guidelines by looking at the G0513X2...one has to draw the line somewhere.....

It only came up because the G0514X2 has a friction brake whereas the G0513X2 doesn't. It was just to clarify that going with the G0513X2 vs the G0513X2B meant giving up a brake entirely, not just trading a friction brake for a dynamic brake. Beyond that, I see that you're an infrequent poster here. Now's as good a time as any to get used to us spending your money for you. :D

[Brian Ross]

I have the 513 X and it has no foot brake and runs forever as someone else posted and is very quiet and smooth. Excellent saw but had an employee release the spring tension before the saw had stopped. Scratch one blade. Foot brake for me next time.


Brian

[Rick Cicciarelli]

Foot break DOES sound nice. Unfortunately even if cash was not the limiting factor, this is going into a basement shop. The bottom of the ceiling joists in the basement are 73" from the floor. I think I could JUST fit the 513X in there and be able to have easy access to the top wheel. I see the 514 is 76" tall...which could fit in between the joists....but I think I would have an awful tough time accessing the top wheel for blade changes if I needed to make them. I hope this 'shop space' will only last another 4 or 5 years...but unfortunately, for that time, it is all I have to work with.

[Kent Chasson]

I bought that saw before they had a brake option and I wish mine had a brake. I timed it once after I had a close call. After being off for 30 seconds, it would still cut a 3/4" x 3/4" piece of cherry in half..... bigger than a finger. If you have a dust collector and ear protection on, there is no way to hear it running. 30 seconds with other things on your mind is plenty of time to forget.

[Michael Heffernan]

Just to clarify, the G0513x2 does not have a foot brake.

My bad, thought it also came with the foot brake. I'd go with the 514X2 if you can afford it.

[Bruce Darrow]

Rick:

I spent the extra for the motor brake - never having used a foot brake, I can't speak to its potential advantages, but the motor brake seems to work just fine.

The other upgrades on the X2B really make the money well spent. The fence is the same as that shown on the GO701 19" saw and other larger Grizzly saws. It is taller, even without the resaw attachment, has a better locking mechanism, and the rail it rides on is solid steel bar stock, as opposed to extruded aluminum. Its mounting makes initial setup and (if or when) necessary, drift correction alignment, a breeze.

Additionally, for what its worth, you get the bear cutout wheels shown, again, on the larger saws. Pure bling, but some folks seem to like it.

$150 for brake, steel and iron over aluminum and bling - should be a no-brainer! Spend the money. You'll be glad you did.

[Scott T Smith]

I have a G0513XB2 and really like it alot (along with the electric brake). It replaced a larger bandsaw that had a manual brake, and IMO the electric is better a better option.

I also have a 16" horizontal resaw, and wish that it had an electric brake. It takes a few minutes to slow down and stop.

A footswitch that activated the brake (upon removing your foot from the switch) would be a nice safety feature on a bandsaw.

[Rod Sheridan]

If I were to buy a new bandsaw, I'd opt for a mechanical or electric brake.

My present bandsaw doesn't have one and I often find myself waiting impatiently for it to coast to a stop.

Regards, Rod.

[Jim O'Dell]

That was one of the options I had decided I wouldn't go without on a bandsaw. Would probably still be holding out for a MM16 had the E16 not had that feature. Now that it sounds like Grizzly has some options, I wouldn't hesitate to look that direction. Still for me, and what I was able to get the E16 for, I think I did ok. Jim.

[Dan Karachio]

I would love to have a saw with one. Don't be cheap! Do it and be happy and live out the dreams of others! :-)

[Peter Quinn]

I really like machines with brakes. I guess they are a result of the Euro nanny state where they are required, but in realty I'd think the number of accidents that happen while a machine is winding down are few. But those safety types are always chasing margins and working towards absolute safety. Fact is most machine accidents happen during use, and once you have cut off a finger its nice to shut the saw down fast so you can collect your severed digits and get to the hospital, because time is critical at that moment! I am not being sarcastic here, I really mean this. I hope the plane never crashes, but I'm glad they have those floating seat cushions in case it does, and for me the brake is the same idea.

For me the BS is not a tool where I am constantly changing set ups and get annoyed by the time waiting for it to stop. On a shaper or TS I really like the braking motors for quick set up adjustments. For the BS its just a worst case scenario for me. Mine has a foot break, I almost never use it, I'm glad its there.

[Van Huskey]

As I have said before I am a huge fan of foot brakes on BSs. You can use them hands free and from most any place you will be working on a bandsaw, not true for a motor brake. I would say that John's idea for a foot operated switch for the motor brake on the 513X2B (or any motor brake only saw) is an excellent one. The 513 series is an excellent balance of capacity and price and when on sale really makes 14" saws look like poor values.

[Ruperto Mendiones]

Yes, a brake is a necessity unless you have the patience to wait for eons while the saw runs down.

Budget considerations aside, a 3 phase saw under 3 hp and a VFD allows you to program in dynamic braking.

Budget consideration included, my bias is for older machines; thus I suggest you consider an older 3 phase bandsaw and spend $150-200 for a VFD. You will get a top quality saw and a larger one, should you want it.
Check out owwm.org and look at the bandsaw posts and purchase gloats.

Ruperto

[John Coloccia]

Let me start by saying that I'm not an electrician, I don't have your saw in front of me, I don't know that this won't blow up your house or make you ugly, and this post contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer. It's your responsibility to do or not do anything here based on your own judgement, and if you're unsure call a pro. I think I've covered everything.

Soooo, someone sent me a PM asking how to actually wire up a foot switch. I figured I'd just respond in the thread. There are two types of OFF switches....there's a momentary pushbutton and an e-stop style button that will latch once you push it and you have to twist it to get back out. Either way, when the button is out, the relay coil can get power, and when it's pushed in the power is cut to the coil. This line is the line you're interested in. You can either trace it back to the magnetic switch and hookup there or you could conceivably even drill a hole and come right out at the control panel where the other switched are. You could even drill a hole further down the pillar and come out there. Doesn't matter. The warning regardless of what you do is that THERE WILL BE FULL OUTLET POWER ON THIS LINE WHEN IT'S PLUGGED IN. You're not playing with low voltage DC stuff here...this is can-kill-you stuff so do it right or get an electrician to do it. Any electrician can do this in minutes.

Anyhow, you want to put a momentary off foot switch IN SERIES with this wire. When you step on it, it will kill the power to the coil, the relay will pop and everything shuts off. I don't know what it draws. I'd guess it's 1A or so, but you're breaking an inductive load so you need more than that. The switches on my G0514X2 are rated 10A@250V. Any foot pedal that meets that requirement or greater will work fine. Specifically, you're looking for an SPDT or DPDT style switch. The DT part (dual throw) ensures that you will be able to hook it up for momentary off. Don't even bother looking for a "momentary off" footswitch. Linemaster makes nice footswitches. You should be able to do this for WELL under $100. It'll probably cost about $20 or $30 between the footswitch, some wire and a strain relief.

If you decide to buy a footswitch with a cord already on it, which I don't recommend, but if you do the one you're going to want is the one that says the contacts are "NC" for Normally Closed. If you happen to have one that's wired for NO (normally open) you can probably rewire it normally closed anyhow.

[Trent Shirley]

I just purchased the 513X2B and like the magnetic brake. Granted a foot brake would be convenient but the magnetic brake stops the blade in about 2.5 seconds. The one drawback is you have to remember to turn off the keyswitch after every use or the brake stays engaged drawing power.

I was not real impressed with the way they shipped my bandsaw. The thin cheap wood almost-a-pallet was busted up pretty bad before I picked it up from the shipping company. And because the pallet was broken at the top the wood moved upward and bent the key in half as it was shipped sticking out of the keyswitch on the machine.
It arrived without any other damage though. Seems to work well but I have no good blades to set it up with yet.

[Joe Angrisani]

Trent.... The idea of the foot switch is to add a hands-free shutdown to the magnetic brake saws.