Help Repairing/Fixing Warped Desktop

[Scot Ferraro]

Hi everyone,

I am building a new computer desk out of Birds-eye maple. I got the top glued up and flattened and initial sanding done about a month ago. It has remained flat for several weeks in this semi-finished stage. We got a lot of rain over the last week (I live right where all the flooding and mudslides you have heard on the news are happening in Orange County) and the humidity has shot up to 90% or so. I noticed yesterday that the top has warped across its entire width by about 3/8 to 1/2 an inch or so. The size of the top is 32 inches wide by 65 inches long. There is no finish on it at all and I am able to pull it flat by putting it on some saw horses concave side down and by applying a lot of weight on the convex side. My question is, do you think I should make some calls and try to clamp it flat until I am ready to cut it to final size and finish it and do you think that will stay flat after I apply the finish? I do not have enough thickness to take it down any to remove the warp and I really do not want to build a new top with such expensive wood if I can avoid it. I could modify the design and build breadboard ends if that would work. I am hoping that it will flatten itself out in time...I can move it inside where it is not as humid until I am ready for final assembly. Should I wet the convex side and apply heat lamps to aid in drying? Any other suggestions? When I install the top it will be screwed into place with floating cleats to allow for movement.

Thanks in advance and I am hoping I can salvage the piece...

Scot

Thanks!

[David Thompson 27577]

You asked: >>"My question is, do you think I should make some calls and try to clamp it flat until I am ready to cut it to final size...."<<

It may work, it may not. But don't just clamp it till you're ready. Clamp it until IT is ready -- like maybe four or five weeks in to the dry season.

[Scot Ferraro]

Thanks...yes, good point to wait until it is ready. I can wait the 4 or 5 weeks or however long if it will work...I really do not want to scrap the piece if I can avoid it...

Scot

[Greg Wease]

Wetting the concave side may help--you want the concave side to grow, not the convex side. If you can flatten it by hand it seems like your fasteners will do the same when it is installed.

[Bill Orbine]

Lay the concave side down on the dry grass on a sunny day. Keep an eye on it till it straightens out. If you store the slab, store it in such a way that will allow air to flow all around as to evenly distribute air/moisture regardless the climate situation. You should be fine.

[Howard Acheson]

How have you been storing the panel for the past month? Has it be stored flat against another flat surface? Is so, that will explain the warping. Any panel needs to be stored in a manner that allows air to freely flow to both sides. If air can't flow, the moisture content of the two sides will not be equal and warping is the result. Always store a panel by stickering it at least 3/4" above any other flat surface. You can also store it on edge so that air can get to both sides but be careful of moisture comming up through concrete.

The good news is that stickering the panel now with a weight on top should allow it to come back into flatness. It may take a couple of days. I would not advise applied water to cause the process.

[Scot Ferraro]

Thanks for the comments. It was stored on edge and leaning up against the side of my jointer. Maybe it pulled moisture from the concrete and combined with the high humidity was enough to cause it to warp. I will try clamping it to some cauls to help flatten it and store it so that air can freely move around it to see what happens.

Scot