Modifying my Craftsman 22114

[Jason Sanko]

Ok I extended my rip capacity out to 34" Right/ 14" Left. Heres how and I put some pictures in. I bought two pieces of mild steel 1/8"X1 1/2" 5' long angle iron. After cutting I mounted the one in the back upside down just like the stock aluminum piece for the back of the fence to ride on. I drilled all new holes and it attaches everywhere it used too it is just 8 1/16" moved to the right. For the front I mounted it with the angle in to the saw and down. Drilled the new holes for attachment so it has all the support it used to. I did have to modify it by drilling one new hole in the saw due to the attachment between the two pieces opf fence blocking on of the stock holes. It was then shifted to the right. I added two small screws at the right edge of the fence support so the angle iron carries all of the weight of the fence. I am doing this to add a 20" X 27" router wing to the saw. Here are some pictures.

[Jason Sanko]

Heres the front with both attached.

[Jason Sanko]

From the front.

[Jason Sanko]

Support for front fence so it does not bend or sag with weight of fence.

[Jason Sanko]

Router wing in progress. Need to cut down myu red laminate still and attach and band with Oak. It is a Woodpeckers plate for the PC 690/890. Made it of two pices of hardboard laminated to a pice of birch ply in the middle. Am going to thread the angle iron for minute adjustments to hiegt and lag screw to the table saw and the angle iron. Also I need to add the niter track. Coming out good for one evenings progress.

Also here you can see th tape on the fence will be way off. I oprdered new tapes from Woocragft today should be here this week. The old ones peel off and then a little goo remover to remove the rest of the adhesive. Will look pretty stock and it is rock solid with the addition of the angle iron.

[Ted Shrader]

Jason -

Looks like those modifications will work out just fine! Will get you plenty of room for the router table.

Are you going to put legs under the extended rails? You could make the roller base longer and use some of the area under the table top for storage. The legs would help support the extra weight of the router.

Regards,
Ted

[Jason S]

That was kiind of my plan was to add legs and modify the base for it. Was going to add a shelf between the bases for the shop vacuum to sit on for router dust collection We will see how it goes. I may just throw the dial indicator on it with and without the router wing and see what kind of deflection I have. If there is not a noticable amount I may just notworry about it.

[aurelio alarcon]

Sweet set up!

[Jason Sanko]

Ok when I signed up on here I messed up and did it at work and at home. At work I did not think it worked we were having server problems that night. Anyhow now I have two profiles and want to use this one. Anyone know how to change the mistake into this one other than just quit using it?

Ted. Here is my plan. I have threaded 3 1/4X28 fine thread bolts through the angle iron to support the top from underneath. This will allow me to fine level it. Unfortunate for me my custom "holly berry red" or like I call it "Craftsman Red" laminate will not be in till monday. The protective white sheet I put on the ply will come off then and I am attaching the Oak banding. After it is all together I am lag bolting it to the cast wing. I may run a lag botl at each far end too for support I have not decided. When it is together I am going to check it with the dial indicator from underneath on the angle iron in one spot. Then I will remove it. Check it again. If no appricable sag I will leave alone for now. Eventually my goal is to add to mobile base like I said and add legs.

I am removing it for final paint and crap. Need to wire wheel all the angle iron and am taking to work and having the anngle iron powder coated red for rust prevention. hen thats done it is final assembly time and I will be done.

Here's my cost so far.

Angle Iron $20
Materials/Wood $20
Router Plate $69
Laminate $14

For about $125 I think it is not too bad considering how nice it is winding up turning out. If I add legs and to the mobile base it will add another $30 to the mix. Will post more pictures after the laminate is done.

[Marshall Harrison]

Jason,

Does the front piece of angle iron only attach to the right half of the front fence or does it run the length of the fence between it and the saw table?

[Jason Sanko]

Marshal it runs the entire length of the fence. All four stock bolts go from the fence through the angle iron and bolt to the top for maximum support. At the unsupported end (the right side looking from the front) the angle iron has two screws that support the end of the fence. It is rock solid.

[Marshall Harrison]

Jason, that means that you've moved the fence out further from the table by about 1/8". Has that caused any problems for locking down your fence? It now has a slightly longer area to span so I'm anxious to know if it causes problems.

I'm waiting for the money to extend my fence. I want to get a new left front and attach it to the right side of the fence. The left front piece is about 18" long and when added to the right side fence should give about 42" capacity right of the blade. I need to do something as I've already needed to cut some plywood at 26". That was a real surprise for me as I wasn't anticipating having to cut something that long. I need to do some shop cleaning and organizing before I have room for a fence that long.

[Marshall Harrison]

I looked at your pictures again and noticed that your splitter was off. :eek: I hope that it was off because you were working on the saw and that it is on when you are cutting wood. I would hate to see you get hurt.

[Jason Sanko]

It was off because I was cross cutting with the ZCI. I have a ZCI with an installed 1/8" splitter in it. I am bad about the guard though I will admit that. But I do wear a full face shatter proof proctective gear.

As to the fence. The 1/8" the fence gets moved out did not affect it at all. The plastic little pad that rides on the back rail has enough clearance built into it to accept it. I looked at just moving the rails but was real concerned about the aluminum supporting the extra weight moved out. That is why I reenforced it with the angle iron. The lock down in the back even still works with the new angle iron. All in all it was the best solution I could come up with. I will take some pictures of the fence locked down from the side in the back when I get home from work tonight.

I will also post some more pictures after I get the router wing finished. Waiting on that dang laminate. I drilled and tapped 6 holes with lock botls for support of the wing today.

[Pete Salvatore]

If I may ask, where did you get the mobile stand? I am looking at this saw too and thought that it looks like a nice design.

Thanks,
Pete

[Brian Dormer]

Jason,

I'm about to buy a 22114 next week (on sale for $575, I just can't pass it up) to replace an old (it was my fathers) Craftsman Table Saw that has served me well, but is now the weakest link in my shop.

I was sold on the RIDGID TS 3650 until I realized that the motor sticks out the back (my shop is SMALL) - then I decided on trusty old Craftsman. But I was a little worried about the rip fence. I can't for the life of me figure out why they gave this saw a 25/25 rip capacity. 12/36 (or thereabouts) seems to make far more sense.

So, once I put the saw together and make sure it works (nothing bent or broken in transport) - I'm going to slide the rails over like you did. I already have a very nice router table, so I will probably just drop a blank melamine panel in to extend the table.

My question - how did you cut the angle-iron out around the front (and rear?) to clear the miter slots? I'm thinking hacksaw and... what??? a rotory tool (I better stock up on cutting disks?) followed by a lot of work with a file. I don't normally do metalwork - and I don't have access to anything fancy (plasma cutters, etc)

Also - you mention that you had to drill and tap a hole in the cast iron. I tried that on my old table saw and gave up after about an hour. I couldn't make more than a small dent in it. What type of drill bit did you use?

TIA -

bd