Ever Finish turn a piece use alcohol then finish the piece?

[John Shuk]

I'm trying something. I turned a cherry burl into a weed pot yesterday. I also got the burl from the wood yesterday. I turned to my final dimension intending to let it "move as it wishes". When I started to sand I found I was having trouble I got to 100 grit and gave up as I was getting loaded up big time. I left my tenon on and placed the piece in denatured alcohol. I intend to leave it for 24 hours remove it and brown bag it for a while. After some time I'll come back to it hopefully put it back on the lathe to sand and part off. I hope I can keep my hands off of it for a few months. If anyone has opinions about what I intend to do I'd love to hear them. I thought I'd try something new to me.

[Steve Clardy]

Ahhh. Weed Pot???:confused::confused:

If thats what I'm thinking, I wouldn't announce I was turning one.:eek::rolleyes::D:D:( Lol:rolleyes::)

[Dave Smith]

I have done that many times with decent results. A lot depends on how thick you leave the wood. When I make weed pots or vessels I drill a hole nearly to the bottom even on dry pieces. After soaking the piece I treat it like any other hollow form. Wrap in paper leaving the opening uncovered and exposed to air. The piece should dry in a couple weeks or sooner if it is not too thick.

Roger Dunn sent me a picture of some pieces he turned to finish then used the alcohol drying procedure. One piece birch he turned to 1/8" thick warped quite a bit but there was not cracking. He also turned a piece of plum to 1/2" finished thickness and also used the alcohol process to dry it. He had no problem with the piece which moved very little and didn't crack. Both were natural edged bowls and retained the bark except for an area where operator error induced some loss. He reported that the oxidation discoloration sanded off easily and the plum retained its vivid purple colored streaks.

Dave Smith

I threw a lot of stuff at the wall and wonder if any of it stuck in Longview, WA.

[John Shuk]

This piece is very thick and dense and is also made from a cherry sapling that was "pregnant" with a burl. The pith has been left in. My intention is to see what happens with the piece as far as checking goes and hopefully to enjoy the result but my main goal is to be able to remount it and sand and apply a finish. If it is a little out of round I won't be disappointed. I just hope it is doable.

[Bob Hovde]

I have turned cherry branches (~6 in.) with the pith left in (going through the middle of the side of the vessel). After turning to rough size, I put them in LD/water overnight and then finished them the next day to 1/8 in. Lots of water-slinging and they dried out fast while sanding, but no major movement or checking. (I haven't had as good luck with other woods.) Therefore, I think you probably can finish your bowls right out of the alcohol bath.

Bob

[John Shuk]

Bob,
That sounds good. The piece I turned off cracked like nobody's business in only one day. I'm hoping the rest sstays a little more intact after finishing.

[Mark Patoka]

I just finished up a spalted beech bowl (pictures coming) last night doing almost the same thing you're wanting to do . I turned a 6" diameter bowl to final thickness, less than 1/2", soaked in alcohol 24 hrs. Wrapped and let it dry for a week. It did warp out of round but did not crack. This was my first attempt at alcohol soaking and will leave thicker walls to allow for turning true.