Newbie Restoration 1972 34-450 Unisaw

[Brian Wilkens]

Before:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/Before/DSC_0016b.jpg


After:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0024.jpg

So after a few years of looking and wishing on Craigslist I decided it was time to abandon the contractors saw and finally get a Unisaw.

When I originally started this endeavor I was not planning a full restoration. However, after repeated visits to sites like this:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jimknapp/Unisaw.html
the itch kept growing.

So back in September I finally found the saw near Wisconsin Dells, WI. I ended up getting it for ~ $600. The saw started fine, raised and lowered smooth, and was flat on top so I took it.

After getting it home and taking the belts off I found that the arbor bearings were messed up.
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0004b.jpg
Instead of turning freely I could feel them chunk and crack while I turned the arbor. This set forth a flurry of disassembly that finally resulted in doing a full out rebuild.

Getting the guts out took a little bit of research. I finally went with the shafts in and tilt method to work the rear trunnion bracket out. Then I was able to finally manipulate the front/rear trunnion and yoke as one piece
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0017.jpg

Before disassembling further I did do a pre-check of the arbor runout:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0021b.jpg

I found that in both axis the runout was ~ 0.004" Not bad, but good to know for later for when the new bearings are in. (Later on I was able to use the sharpie/file technique to finally achieve a runout of about 0.0005")

Here is some pics of the general state of the case, top, and plinth:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0020b.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0019b.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0018b.jpg

Replacing the arbor bearings ended up being pretty straight forward and simple. I know from doing research online that there are some very bad horror stories about getting the old bearings out. However, mine came out/off with minimal effort. The hardest part was finding a pulley remover that would grab the bearing housing while not interfering with the arbor flange. I ended up getting replacement bearings from Grainger for about ~ $3/piece as I did not have the older style special bearings w/ the flange.

I then started the labor intensive phase of cleaning and priming all the parts for paint. The only thing I found during this phase is that sometimes and SOS pad was great, other times you could not beat a steel or brass brush, and still other times a scrub brush w/ soap and water was the key. Different parts seemed to work good w/ some methods versus others:

Pre-Paint:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0003.jpg

For the body (as an after-thought) I decided to add a dust collector shroud for later use. I didn't want to mess up the paint job later when I finally got a dust collector...
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0002a.jpg

One thing that I really fought with was the mobile base. The newer Unisaws have a slimmer profile at the base versus these older ones with the large cast-iron plinths. After I finally decided to go with a Biesemeyer fence I knew I would be better off w/ a Delta mobile base. So I went w/ the approach from:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jimknapp/Unisaw.html
and modified a Delta 50-277 base w/ new cross-members:
Before:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0007.jpg

After
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0011.jpg
I originally welded in 1/8 steel cross members. That was a mistake. They originally felt and looked like they would be substantial enough but after getting things together and putting the top on:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0018.jpg
I quickly found that it was flexing those cross pieces. I ended up have to weld in additional supports underneath. Should have went w/ 1/4 steel the first time...

The other thing I really debated was how to wire this thing. It was a 2hp motor so I could have went w/ 120 and used my 20amp garage circuit. However, I just couldn't stand the thought of going through this much work to finally have a cabinet saw and then not have it be 220. So I ran a new circuit to the garage and kept the motor in the 220 configuration.

The one thing I don't like about new saws is how the supply wire usually comes off of the switch to go to the wall. This just seems like it is in a bad place, in the way, and done to save money. Therefore, I used a 6 conductor cable to run just 1 run from the saw to the switch. Then, have on connection on the back of the saw for power.
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0031.jpg

I went with NEMA twist lock connectors on the back:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0028.jpg

It was a very fun project and in total took about 2 and a half months. I think I put about an extra $600 into it after purchasing the fence, splitter, base, switch, bearings, belts, connectors, and paint. This was my first real attempt at restoring anything. Fortunately, there is so much good stuff out there for Unisaws that novices like me can make a decent stab at it.

The way I looked at it is that I could have spent $1200 and probably have gotten a really good used or fairly decent new saw. However, knowing every bolt and technique needed to do a project like this is well worth it in the long run to achieve better woodworking results.

[Neil Brooks]

Uh ......


[DROOL]

GREAT job !!!!

[Joseph Tarantino]

looks like a great job that was probably a lot of fun. there is something gratifying about understanding how a tool is constructed.....it affords a better understanding of why a tool performs the way it does.

over the past few years, i've seen quite a few unisaw rebuilds and this one is absolutely first rate, really beautifully done. all you need is a motor cover. but $1200? just curious about what led to this project instead of just getting something like a Griz and move on to making saw dust? BTW, you are gonna actually use that unisaw, aren't you? i mean, it almost looks too good to actually suffer the indignity of generating sawdust.:D

again, a really beautiful restoration. trully impresive piece of work. i hope it gives you many years of trouble free service.

[Brandon Weiss]

I think it's safe to say you can quit your day job if you want. Excellent work. Looks like a brand new saw and i agree with you, doing the restoration taught you more about that saw than if you had bought one ready to go.

[Brian Wilkens]

Trust me I thought many times of just buying new.... However, I kept finding myself going to the refurb post and videos that are out there. I think in the end I just wanted to see if I could do it. Also, I knew that the older style Unisaws were selling for about $1500 or so before the big redesign. I figured that if I could stay under that threshold I am doing something valuable for equivalent results. The other thing is that it is easier to get $600 chunks through Accounts Payable (I mean my wife) than one big bulp:-)

[Ron Bontz]

Makes me wanna get rid of my 10 yr old uni and steal yours. Nice job.

[Chip Lindley]

Great Job Brian! I just love the smell of Delta Gray Enamel in the Morning! Total disassembly, cleaning and repainting a machine gives the owner satisfaction and more respect for good ol' machinery. That one should be good for the rest of your woodworking career! Enjoy!
~Chip~

[Carl Babel]

Wow! Beautiful job! Makes me sad that I stopped my restoration (1947 Uni) at the "got it functional" stage.

[Brian Kincaid]

Wow, this really goes to show that with a lot of determination, hard work, and the internet almost anything is possible.
-Brian

[frank shic]

that was inspiring for a tool that would have otherwise sat around collecting dust or even worse wind up in a junk yard! thank you for sharing with the rest of us.

[mark kosse]

Brian,

Nice job! You have a nice saw, old enough to be different and new enough not to matter when modified. Dust collection is a must. That cabinet fills up fast.

I personally could bring myself to modify a 40's uni. On my school saw, a 61 vintage, in order to install dust collection they cut the ci plinth to run through it. It hurts every time I look at it. Cuts the same though...

My uni has the sign of the devil on it. You have a much nicer saw.

Good job and good luck,

Mark

[mark kosse]

just curious about what led to this project instead of just getting something like a Griz and move on to making saw dust? BTW, you are gonna actually use that unisaw, aren't you? i mean, it almost looks too good to actually suffer the indignity of generating dust.

Joe, this is blasphemy to a uni owner. :)

[Victor Stearns]

What a nice job! I really like the idea of the restoration and your is very nice.
Reading about your rebuild keeps me on the hunt!
Thanks,
Victor

[Ray Newman]

Really nice restoration.

[greg a bender]

Wow, nice job!

I hope that in 30 some more years, someone like you will be around to rebuild my 2010 Uni (if it needs it).
Again great job! I love to see the older Uni's being restored and used.

Greg A

[Bill LaPointe]

Brian,

Great job! I only have one machine that was bought new and that was this year for Xmas from my wife. (Not supposed to know, but had to help my son unload and move the drum sander to the garage.) I enjoy working on my shop and machinery every bit as much as the things I build with them. You will enjoy your Uni for many years to come.

[Louis Reed]

Brian,
As others have said " Great job". A couple of years ago a woodworker buddy of mine gave me an old Uni. Like you I stripped it to the bone, new paint, replaced all bearings and put a new Biessmeyer fence on it. I bought a new 3hp motor and a good switch mounted like yours. It has been working like a new saw. Built many cabinets and now I am making eight dining room chairs. I did add an 8' x 8' outfeed table . I know you will enjoy your saw! One more time GREAT JOB.

Louis "Art" Reed

[Brian Wilkens]

Louis,
Did you end up putting on a magnetic switch? I really debated about upgrading the motor but in the end stuck w/ the 2hp and left that for another day... However, I went back and forth about getting a mag switch versus the one I ended up using..

The outfeed table is the next project. I think mine will be 4'x4' though as I am in a smaller garage and I need it to be storable

[Peter Stahl]

Awesome job on the rebuild. Can I ask where you got the switch for the saw? I'm like you always wanted a Uni and bought one years ago new. Could have got a grizzly cheaper but I wanted the unisaw.

[Brian Wilkens]

Hi Peter:
http://woodworker.com/onoff-switch-wstop-enclosure-mssu-140-066.asp?search=switch&searchmode=2
The switch works good, the only thing I found with it is that there is not alot of room inside to stuff wires, especially if your using 12 or 10 ga. I probably should have went with a magnetic switch for more safety but this one works pretty good for the money

[Gil Knowles]

Brian
That is a fantastic restoration you performed, it looks like new saw.
It is wonderful to see an old piece of equipment restored rather than going to the scrap heap.
Gil

[Peter Stahl]

Hi Peter:
http://woodworker.com/onoff-switch-wstop-enclosure-mssu-140-066.asp?search=switch&searchmode=2
The switch works good, the only thing I found with it is that there is not alot of room inside to stuff wires, especially if your using 12 or 10 ga. I probably should have went with a magnetic switch for more safety but this one works pretty good for the money

Thanks Brian

[Christopher Stahl]

Wow, you really turned that into a beautiful piece of equipment. I'm always enamored by the work that people have exerted into these restorations. Well done!!!

[John Petsche]

awesome post, thanks for the great pics. I am hopeful I can find a decent priced unisaw, I've been wanting to do a restoration for a while. great job.

[John Petsche]

What did you use for the paint, looks awesome.

[John Petsche]

awesome job thanks for the post.

[Mike Wilkins]

You did a masterful job on the resto. I did the same with a 1964 model of the same machine and enjoyed it for years. Hated to let it go after getting a slider, but today I wished I still had it. Would have been nice for joinery related jobs like dadoes, tenons, etc. You will enjoy this for a lot of years and pass it on to the grandkids.

[Sam Layton]

Brian,

WOW, what a great job restoring your saw. All of your hard work, and time spent, gave you a saw that is better than new. Your attention to detail really stands out.

Sam