Brian Wilkens
12-21-2010, 3:39 PM
Before:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/Before/DSC_0016b.jpg
After:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0024.jpg
So after a few years of looking and wishing on Craigslist I decided it was time to abandon the contractors saw and finally get a Unisaw.
When I originally started this endeavor I was not planning a full restoration. However, after repeated visits to sites like this:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jimknapp/Unisaw.html
the itch kept growing.
So back in September I finally found the saw near Wisconsin Dells, WI. I ended up getting it for ~ $600. The saw started fine, raised and lowered smooth, and was flat on top so I took it.
After getting it home and taking the belts off I found that the arbor bearings were messed up.
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0004b.jpg
Instead of turning freely I could feel them chunk and crack while I turned the arbor. This set forth a flurry of disassembly that finally resulted in doing a full out rebuild.
Getting the guts out took a little bit of research. I finally went with the shafts in and tilt method to work the rear trunnion bracket out. Then I was able to finally manipulate the front/rear trunnion and yoke as one piece
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0017.jpg
Before disassembling further I did do a pre-check of the arbor runout:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0021b.jpg
I found that in both axis the runout was ~ 0.004" Not bad, but good to know for later for when the new bearings are in. (Later on I was able to use the sharpie/file technique to finally achieve a runout of about 0.0005")
Here is some pics of the general state of the case, top, and plinth:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0020b.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0019b.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0018b.jpg
Replacing the arbor bearings ended up being pretty straight forward and simple. I know from doing research online that there are some very bad horror stories about getting the old bearings out. However, mine came out/off with minimal effort. The hardest part was finding a pulley remover that would grab the bearing housing while not interfering with the arbor flange. I ended up getting replacement bearings from Grainger for about ~ $3/piece as I did not have the older style special bearings w/ the flange.
I then started the labor intensive phase of cleaning and priming all the parts for paint. The only thing I found during this phase is that sometimes and SOS pad was great, other times you could not beat a steel or brass brush, and still other times a scrub brush w/ soap and water was the key. Different parts seemed to work good w/ some methods versus others:
Pre-Paint:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0003.jpg
For the body (as an after-thought) I decided to add a dust collector shroud for later use. I didn't want to mess up the paint job later when I finally got a dust collector...
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0002a.jpg
One thing that I really fought with was the mobile base. The newer Unisaws have a slimmer profile at the base versus these older ones with the large cast-iron plinths. After I finally decided to go with a Biesemeyer fence I knew I would be better off w/ a Delta mobile base. So I went w/ the approach from:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jimknapp/Unisaw.html
and modified a Delta 50-277 base w/ new cross-members:
Before:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0007.jpg
After
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0011.jpg
I originally welded in 1/8 steel cross members. That was a mistake. They originally felt and looked like they would be substantial enough but after getting things together and putting the top on:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0018.jpg
I quickly found that it was flexing those cross pieces. I ended up have to weld in additional supports underneath. Should have went w/ 1/4 steel the first time...
The other thing I really debated was how to wire this thing. It was a 2hp motor so I could have went w/ 120 and used my 20amp garage circuit. However, I just couldn't stand the thought of going through this much work to finally have a cabinet saw and then not have it be 220. So I ran a new circuit to the garage and kept the motor in the 220 configuration.
The one thing I don't like about new saws is how the supply wire usually comes off of the switch to go to the wall. This just seems like it is in a bad place, in the way, and done to save money. Therefore, I used a 6 conductor cable to run just 1 run from the saw to the switch. Then, have on connection on the back of the saw for power.
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0031.jpg
I went with NEMA twist lock connectors on the back:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0028.jpg
It was a very fun project and in total took about 2 and a half months. I think I put about an extra $600 into it after purchasing the fence, splitter, base, switch, bearings, belts, connectors, and paint. This was my first real attempt at restoring anything. Fortunately, there is so much good stuff out there for Unisaws that novices like me can make a decent stab at it.
The way I looked at it is that I could have spent $1200 and probably have gotten a really good used or fairly decent new saw. However, knowing every bolt and technique needed to do a project like this is well worth it in the long run to achieve better woodworking results.
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/Before/DSC_0016b.jpg
After:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0024.jpg
So after a few years of looking and wishing on Craigslist I decided it was time to abandon the contractors saw and finally get a Unisaw.
When I originally started this endeavor I was not planning a full restoration. However, after repeated visits to sites like this:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jimknapp/Unisaw.html
the itch kept growing.
So back in September I finally found the saw near Wisconsin Dells, WI. I ended up getting it for ~ $600. The saw started fine, raised and lowered smooth, and was flat on top so I took it.
After getting it home and taking the belts off I found that the arbor bearings were messed up.
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0004b.jpg
Instead of turning freely I could feel them chunk and crack while I turned the arbor. This set forth a flurry of disassembly that finally resulted in doing a full out rebuild.
Getting the guts out took a little bit of research. I finally went with the shafts in and tilt method to work the rear trunnion bracket out. Then I was able to finally manipulate the front/rear trunnion and yoke as one piece
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0017.jpg
Before disassembling further I did do a pre-check of the arbor runout:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0021b.jpg
I found that in both axis the runout was ~ 0.004" Not bad, but good to know for later for when the new bearings are in. (Later on I was able to use the sharpie/file technique to finally achieve a runout of about 0.0005")
Here is some pics of the general state of the case, top, and plinth:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0020b.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0019b.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0018b.jpg
Replacing the arbor bearings ended up being pretty straight forward and simple. I know from doing research online that there are some very bad horror stories about getting the old bearings out. However, mine came out/off with minimal effort. The hardest part was finding a pulley remover that would grab the bearing housing while not interfering with the arbor flange. I ended up getting replacement bearings from Grainger for about ~ $3/piece as I did not have the older style special bearings w/ the flange.
I then started the labor intensive phase of cleaning and priming all the parts for paint. The only thing I found during this phase is that sometimes and SOS pad was great, other times you could not beat a steel or brass brush, and still other times a scrub brush w/ soap and water was the key. Different parts seemed to work good w/ some methods versus others:
Pre-Paint:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0003.jpg
For the body (as an after-thought) I decided to add a dust collector shroud for later use. I didn't want to mess up the paint job later when I finally got a dust collector...
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0002a.jpg
One thing that I really fought with was the mobile base. The newer Unisaws have a slimmer profile at the base versus these older ones with the large cast-iron plinths. After I finally decided to go with a Biesemeyer fence I knew I would be better off w/ a Delta mobile base. So I went w/ the approach from:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jimknapp/Unisaw.html
and modified a Delta 50-277 base w/ new cross-members:
Before:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0007.jpg
After
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0011.jpg
I originally welded in 1/8 steel cross members. That was a mistake. They originally felt and looked like they would be substantial enough but after getting things together and putting the top on:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/During/DSC_0018.jpg
I quickly found that it was flexing those cross pieces. I ended up have to weld in additional supports underneath. Should have went w/ 1/4 steel the first time...
The other thing I really debated was how to wire this thing. It was a 2hp motor so I could have went w/ 120 and used my 20amp garage circuit. However, I just couldn't stand the thought of going through this much work to finally have a cabinet saw and then not have it be 220. So I ran a new circuit to the garage and kept the motor in the 220 configuration.
The one thing I don't like about new saws is how the supply wire usually comes off of the switch to go to the wall. This just seems like it is in a bad place, in the way, and done to save money. Therefore, I used a 6 conductor cable to run just 1 run from the saw to the switch. Then, have on connection on the back of the saw for power.
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0031.jpg
I went with NEMA twist lock connectors on the back:
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/wbrian9260/Unisaw/After/DSC_0028.jpg
It was a very fun project and in total took about 2 and a half months. I think I put about an extra $600 into it after purchasing the fence, splitter, base, switch, bearings, belts, connectors, and paint. This was my first real attempt at restoring anything. Fortunately, there is so much good stuff out there for Unisaws that novices like me can make a decent stab at it.
The way I looked at it is that I could have spent $1200 and probably have gotten a really good used or fairly decent new saw. However, knowing every bolt and technique needed to do a project like this is well worth it in the long run to achieve better woodworking results.