Incra Super System questions

[Rob Lindquist]

I'm going to pull the plug on an accurate fence for the router table. What are my options, thinking of one for the rockler router table. But should I do the table saw system and move a router to the TS?

I have a Uni with a Beismeyer now, and the rockler style router table. Would I be missing out with just the Router table fence? 17" or 25"?

I want to build 3 jewelry boxes for my 3 daughters, a case for my grandfathers flag, (recently passed away, military flag presented at funeral) and want to make some of the awesome joints showcased by some of you luthiers, and humidor builders, you know who they are!

What else should I be thinking about? Is there something better/newer, any input would be greatly appreciated. I just want to get the most for the money. This will be my Christmas present to myself.

[Victor Robinson]

Rob,

I don't have enough experience to be offering sound advice, but I'll just throw up my experience.

I built a standalone router table/cabinet, to which I added the Incra LS super system. It's fantastic.

I also have a secondary router table in my tablesaw's extension wing.

I do wish I had just gone ahead and gotten the tablesaw super system, as I miss the repeatability and accuracy of the Incra on my tablesaw fence. Once you start using that kind of a system, you get hooked! In retrospect, I didn't get the tablesaw system for two reasons: 1) It seemed like it would be a big hassle to replace my saw's rails and 2) I wanted a standalone router table for better noise and dust control.

I'm sure at some point I will end up upgrading my saw's rails and fence, and at that point I'll sure wish I had gotten the full combo system all in one go.

[ian maybury]

Speaking a little theoretically as they are not in use yet - but I initially bought a TS-LS positioner and joinery system for my Hammer panel saw intending to add a router table extension on the rip side. Then I went off and bought a separate router table and 25in positioner for routing with the joinery system.

The thinking evolved as follows: Having the Incra positioning capability on the saw would (apart from providing high accuracy and repeatable rip fence/RHS cross cut stop positioning) also open up some interesting jointing and rebating possibilities - by using the positioning in conjunction with some of Felder's various tipped Dado/dovetail/slotting cutters on the saw and also the slider.

Then the thought developed that what with a 2.5m slider, the overhanging positioner on the rip side, and the long lean across what was going to be a very wide extension table that access wouldn't be so good for routing. Also that it would probably entail an unpredictable need to change set up when moving between ripping and routing. The clincher was the thought that it might prove possible to use a second shorter positioner as a parallel positioner mounted on the panel support frame outboard of the slider.

So I went off and bought the separate router table and 25in positioner as well. (they had a good deal going) Definitely a case of jumping the gun and gilding the lily a little, in that some time with the initial set up may yet show that there is no great need for separates. On the other hand it should deliver excellent flexibility, and all sorts of interesting possibilities.

My only regret is that both units are imperial. I can live with it as I was brought up on imperial and educated through metric - but on the other hand I'd have delayed if I'd known the metric units were coming out a few months later.

Not quite your situation I know Rob, but maybe there's some thoughts in there that will trigger more of your own.

ian

[Bill LaPointe]

I bought the TS-LS setup last year and feel that I got m money's worth. I have not used the template system to it's fullest extent, but what I have used so far has justified the cost.

[David Hawxhurst]

i have the ts-ls with a router table wing on the left side of the table saw. reasoning for the left side was space at the time, and not having to remove the incra base and flip it to the other side to do router operations. the rails come with a couple sets of stops i used a set for sliding the base into position for router use. the biggest draw back i've found to have the router table mounted to the table saw is that you have to change from one operation to another (some fore thought about your work is needed). changing between routing and sawing is very easy and only take a minute. remove wonder fence (2 bolts for each half) then loose 4 wing nut bolts and slide base back to saw position and tighten. space allowing i would do a stand alone router table, however i'm still happy and content with the current set-up.

[Brian Kincaid]

My only regret is that both units are imperial. I can live with it as I was brought up on imperial and educated through metric - but on the other hand I'd have delayed if I'd known the metric units were coming out a few months later.
ian

Here's a conversion kit for the table saw positioner. They have kits for the others as well.
http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCRA_LS32_Metric_Conversion_Kit_p/m-ls32convert.htm

It's not cheap, but neither was your panel saw :)
-Brian

[Rob Lindquist]

Thanks for the feedback, I think I will go with the router system seeing I really like the TS and fence I have now. I will put it on the router table system I have, I think it is Norm's or a Wood mag plan table my father built. I "think" it will help me make all the joints I want for the time being.

[Don Bullock]

Rob,

If you are using the regular Rockler router table the back of the table will have to be extended to accommodate the positioner. I have the Incra Lite Jig that gives me 12" of movement. I had to add 9" onto the back of my Rockler router table. Here's a couple pictures of how I did it.
174768

I attached steel extensions to the Rockler base. On top of that I placed two 2x6 boards and scraps of laminate flooring which made the extension exactly the same height as the table top. To attach the fence I used a scrap of true 3/4" mahogany that I’ve had for over 40 years.
174769

While my solution isn't great to look at or what others might do to solve the problem, it works.

If you check the instructions for the Incra fence jig you're planning on buying it they will show a small diagram of the optimal table size for the fence. For the Incra Light Jig they suggest a table that is 20" deep.

[ian maybury]

Thanks very much for the info on the metric conversion kits Brian. When I last spoke to them I asked about the possibility, but they said they had no plans to do them. That's great news.

Ian

[Rob Lindquist]

Don,
That's good information, might not be so bad then to leave the router table alone and add an insert to the extension table on the TS. In order to save shop space, has anyone ever had a hinged extension on the back of their router table? Would it be secure enough for those precise joints, or just a bad idea?