Saw Stop blade question

[Jay Jolliffe]

I changed my blade today & noticed a space about double the recommended distance between the brake & blade. The adjuster was at the end with no adjustment to close up the distance. The blade I took out was the saw stop blade & the one I put in was a Forrest....Anyone else have this happen & is there a fix. When it was new it was at the bottom of the brake adjustment with the ss blade......

[John Coloccia]

Is the Forrest blade undersize?

[Paul DeCarlo]

What is the actual diameter of the blade? I'd bet all your 10" blades aren't actually 10". They will get smaller as they are sharpened. That is weird though, I've had to adjust out for a lot of blades and never ran out of "throw" on the SawStop.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I could be wrong but there was some discussion recently about blades being metric instead of SAE. I think somebody else posted about this identical problem. Might be worth a search.

I just did a search in this forum using "SawStop Blade" as the search words and there are several threads concerning this issue that would be worth your reading.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

The manual has the adjustment procedure. I've been using a WWII, and one day the saw didn't start, and the error code said the gap was too big. Takes a few seconds to adjust. After digging out the manual, and figuring out what the blinking light sequence was.

[Jason Coen]

I've got a WWII that, after another sharpening, will likely no longer work on my SS.

[Will Overton]

On the prior thread mentioned above we learned that quite a few, brand name, 10" blades are not a true 10".

Guess they figured if a 2 x 4 isn't full sized, you don't need a full sized blade to cut them. :)

[michael case]

Jay,

Blades vary enough that you need to adjust the Sawstop when changing. To avoid this pick a line of blades that you like that have the same diameter so you can interchange them without making any adjustment. I use a Freud glue and fine crosscut. I keep two sets. One on the saw and one sharpened back up. I sharpen them in sets so as to keep them the same. I do all this because forgetting the adjustment could pop the saw.

[Jay Jolliffe]

After measuring four blades, which were all different I found out that the one to changed to which was ground by Forest to cut a flat bottom grove measured 9 7/8. The SS blade measured 9 15/16 & the two Tenryu blades I measured one was 10" & the other 10 1/16. So I guess you have to keep an eye on the blades that you use in the SS.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

My Saw Stop Blade is not full kerf

Jay,

just an FYI, but the Saw Stop blade that came with my saw not only required brake-gap adjustment...it turned out be a thin kerf blade! I guess I never looked to closely in the first few weeks that I had my SS PCS and was just excited to get working on outfeed table and the like, but when I switched back and forth to a full plate rip blade it threw off all my fence measurements by 1/16" Argh!! The SS blade didn't say anything about kerf on it...once I realized this it settled the decision to buy a new full plate 40T combination blade. And the original SS blade is stowed away for some time when I need a blade that I am not concerned about trashing. I am partial to Amana FWIW.

[Jay Allen]

I had the "non start-up" problem one time too and it was from a small blade. I have no idea how it 'knows", but it does. There was plenty of travle in the adjuster though, I haven't seen a blade that didn't work?