Marking Gauge Recommendations

[Brett Bobo]

So, Woodcraft (Texas) is offering countdown to Christmas specials for a particular item each day and today's item is a marking gauge (item number 145464) for $25 with a list price of $48.99. I don't currently own a marking gauge and have gone back and forth between this and a wheel marking gauge. I'm primarily (at least right now) looking for a marking gauge to scribe the thickness of boards for cutting dovetails, instead of marking them with a pencil. Even though this marking gauge doubles to mark mortises, I assume this can also scribe for thickness of material, correct? As of now, I don't expect to use the gauge for marking mortises as my preference has been to do the layout with a combination square before going to the mortiser and dialing in the locations.

Does anyone have any experience with this marking gauge? Would this be suitable for my application compared to a wheel marking gauge?

Thanks in advance,
Brett

[Russell Sansom]

Sometimes I find the wheel gauge indispensable. For instance, when a board is 1/64" too wide, the wheel will cut like a razor. In the end grain of very small boards ( as in a jewelry box ), I prefer razor thin lines to mark the ends of tenons. But often I prefer the pin because a wheel is difficult to see or just isn't cutting right...depends on the wood.
I don't know about other woodworkers, but I have to agree with Krenov; the pins are much more accurate if they thinned down to a half-cone, flat on one side and conical on the other.

[glenn bradley]

I'll +1 of the Wheeled Version. I am hardly a Neander but hand tools factor into my work. I had an inexpensive wheel gauge (Shop Fox I think. About $12). It works great. I have the more sophisticated LV wheel gauge with the markings on the rod. Very handy and definitely preferred.

[Jim Koepke]

Here is my review or some wheel gauges:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133966-Tite-Mark-Compared-to-Veritas-Wheel-Gauge&highlight=tight+mark+Stanley

jtk

[James Scheffler]

It looks like this one has a single pin on one side and two pins on the other. The single pin can be used to scribe for thickness of material. I have a similar marking gauge (not this exact one) and it should do what you want it to do. You might want to look at cutting gauges instead, which look the same but have a blade rather than a pin. They work better cross-grain.

Jim S.

[David Weaver]

Me +2 for the wheeled versions. The western-made ones have much crisper cutters on them. The shop fox one is nice to have around as a second one, but I appreciate the crispness/sharpness of the veritas wheels a lot more since they do a better job of cutting vs. tearing.

[Zach England]

I have:

Lee Valley--ok, not the easiest for fine adjustment, an adequate second

tite-mark--much better overall, a joy to use

[Jeremy Dorn]

I have and use several of each type and find that pins and wheels are suited for different tasks. The wheel versions work spectacuraly across the grain when they are sharp, and are very easy to go around a corner with so I use them for this task almost exclusively. Pin style guages that are ground to a point like to tear the wood in this sort of an operation, but they shine in marking along the grain for something. It never hurts to have multiple marking gauges either, as its really a shame when you need forget to cut out a joint or something and have already changed the setting of your one and only gauge :) I find I'll use 2-3 of them at the same time during most projects.

[Mike Siemsen]

That is a fairly standard two pin gauge and the screw adjustment on the second pin is nice. The opposite side works fine for a single pin/single line. All of my marking gauges are either pin or knife type, I have never had a wheel gauge though I have used them. Unless the wheel is very sharp I do not like the way they work, I get shallow marks. Many people love them and they are much easier for a beginner to use. I am always surprised by how much trouble people can have using a marking gauge. A two pin gauge isn't really that necessary for mortises either as the chisel cuts a specific width so you really only need to mark one side of the mortise, it is useful for laying out tenons and tongues and the like.. The sharpening method mentioned by Russel helps.
These are simple tools but they take a bit of practice to use effectively. Most beginning users being ham fisted in their application of the tool. Remember to drag the points rather than angling them forward and driving them into the wood. It is always key with a gauge to keep the face of the fence against the edge being followed, this is more important than making a line because if the fence isn't in the right place the line won't be.
Mike

[Rob Young]

I'll +1 of the Wheeled Version. I am hardly a Neander but hand tools factor into my work. I had an inexpensive wheel gauge (Shop Fox I think. About $12). It works great. I have the more sophisticated LV wheel gauge with the markings on the rod. Very handy and definitely preferred.

I have the Shop Fox brand and it is OK. No fine adjust except bump on the table. And I had to hone the wheel a bit. But I think I caught it on sale for $8-10 so there you go. Since then I have added a shop made cutting gauge with wedged fence that I use more often as well as the Winsor Design brand from Harbor Freight that is OK if you take the time to clean off the excess lacquer and sharpen the pins. It made a decent mortise gauge for about $10. :)

If I had the money to spend (and the will to spend it - tightwad) I'd look seriously at the Tite-Mark wheel gauge. Those look very nice. And add on the extra wheel and clamp ring to make it a mortising gauge too.

[Tony Shea]

I also would highly reccomend the wheeled version marking guages, you will be very happy with your decision. Depending on how much use you'll get out of it I would seriously consider looking into the Titemark version. It truely is a joy to use and is well worth every extra cent over the competitors. Very well made and very easy to use. The difference between the Veritas O-ring tensioner and the Titemark's plastic set screw is huge. The set screw style truely enables you to use one hand while setting the guage and is very quick at it. And the accessories that can be bought for it are plentiful and useful. I often find myself using it to pare shallow rabbets and mortises to their exact sizes. And the offer the extra large wheel for this function. Just can't say enough about my purchase of the Titemark, am a satisfied customer. Kevin Drake is also a great guy that I had the chance to talk with and learned a lot.

[Andrew Gibson]

My favorite marking gauge is the one I made myself. It is one of the ones with the wooden wedge to lock it in place. The knife is made from a ground down jigsaw blade.

[Trevor Walsh]

For what it's worth, I love my Veritas wheel marking gage with mortise heads. It's got an amazing fit an finish and cuts a great line. I've built cutting gages and use a knife/combi square a lot, but I'd never want to be without that wheel gage. The standard wheel gage is $29 something and the mortise heads are $10.

[Victor Stearns]

Greetings,
I wanted to add my 2cents.
I have two of the Hamilton marking gages. I personally like this much better than the wheeled wonders. The lines are always visible and the gage is a joy to use. This is the link. Take a look. You might be surprised.
http://www.dilegnosupply.com/Marking-Measuring/gauges_hamilton_marking_gauge.htm
Victor