I need to sharpen my tools....... but how?

[Ed Lang]

I have searched for the past two days all over the Internet about sharpening systems. I am more confused than when I started. I hope some guidance from other SMC members can set me back on track.

I have several hand planes, chisels, lathe tools and marking knives. All of which are dull and are not used since they cut/tear the wood so bad.

Scarry Sharp, Tormek, Wolverine, something other?

I do not have a bench grinder. I do have a Grizzly G1036 Slow-Speed Grinder.

I would be happy with one tool to do it all or seperate tools for each type of blade. I just want to get my tools sharp so I can get back to the wood.

Thanks for your input.

[Andy Henriksen]

I'm very much a newbie and had a similar question recently. Well I'm sure I'll explore other options down the road, I found the cheapest easiest way to get pretty decent results was simply with a two-grit Japanese waterstone and a honing guide. For me it was mostly chisels that were in need of attention, but it will work on the plane irons too. The waterstone is (I think) 800 on one side and 4000 on the other. I'm not really pleased with the honing guide as it's difficult to align the blade accurately in it though. I might suggest one that has a screw down against the flat of the blade, rather than pinching from the sides.
Heres the one I got:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3114
Here's the one I wish I had gotten:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=224

[Dave Wright #2]

Ed,

The problem is that an accurate and complete description of sharpening requires more typing than most posters have time, the topic has been beaten to death over the years, and there are many different ways to get good results.

I recommend that you get a good book like Leonard Lee's Complete Book of Sharpening, then start in and figure out your preferences. Professionals and people who work wood a lot lean toward dry bench grinders, waterstones, and freehand techniques, all of which work quickly and well but require initial and ongoing practice. Part timers might do better with safe grinding (wet), diamond stones or scary sharp (guaranteed flat), and guides for both grinding and honing. These do not require practice to get good results, though you do have to pay attention and know how the materials and tools work.

FWIW, I'm in the part timer category. I grind with a Prairie Wet Grinder, rough hone on diamonds stones, final hone with 2500 grit paper glued to MDF, and use side clamping honing guides.

Best,

Dave

[Dave Avery]

Ed,

Given that you have both hand tools and lathe tools to sharpen, I'd go with the Tormek. I use it for hand tools only (I'm not a turner), and I've found that it's easy to learn and use, fast, and doesn't make a mess. It's probably the most expensive optionn out there, but worth it. Dave.

[John Davidson]

I think most everyone that has gotten into the hobby has to come to terms with sharpening. I learned for me that no single system is goining to get everything.

For lathe tools I use a 8 inch slow speed bench grinder with white wheels and a Wolverine attachment. This systems lets me sharpen my turning tools with repetable results. It does it fast with no fuss

As for bench chesils, plane irons, marking knives, carving tools, etc... I use a set of norton man made water stones and a honing guide when needed. These stones cut fast and provide a razor sharp finish. I only use the guide when I need to reestablish the bevel on the tool.

I have used the Tomek several times in classes that I have taken. I was not all that impressed with this tool, at least not for the price. The machine cuts very slowly compared to a slow speed bench grinder. Also the cutting tool will still need to be put on a set of stones or other system to bring the edge up to use. The one thing it did do very nice was give the operator good control establishing the bevel on the tool with no fear of taking the temper out. However, this can also be done on the bench grinder if you take the care to go slow and not over heat the tool.

Anyway, this is my take on sharpening and it is working well for me. I am sure that there are a dozen other ways that give results that is just as good. I also know that many swear but thier Tomeks :rolleyes: :D

John

[Silas Smith]

Ed, I am fairly new to woodworking, but I have had good success with the scary sharp method. Probably the biggest benefit to me is that for $20 in sandpaper and glass, you have all that you need to get started. Considering the cost of a Tormek and my need to buy a 8" joiner, this is the best aspect of this method. I get that mirror like finish and can easily cut through endgrain without alot of time and effort. Just my .02

[Bill White]

I have the Makita horizontal sharpener. Simple, relatively inexpensive, and it works for everything I've thrown at it. What else can ya ask for?

[Bob Smalser]

Lotsa ways to skin this cat and a lot of opinions. I recommend learning to do it the way your grandfather did because you can then do it anywhere, not just where all your expensive gizmos are located.

All you really need is a high-speed grinder with coarse stone (fastest and coolest - but requires some hand honing), a coarse and fine stone, either carborundum, novaculite or waterstone, and a way to hold those stones down. You can also go the cheaper route and use wet-or-dry paper until you can afford good stones.

You can machine some wood blocks to use as honing guides until you get the hang of using a bevel gage, inspecting the flats you are making on the cutting edge, and adjusting your hold accordingly.



http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=12747&highlight=basic+sharpening

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5090019/69053195.jpg

I can teach teenagers to sharpen this way successfully in an hour or so. Adult woodworkers take longer because they have their heads filled with all the gizmo manufacturer's propaganda about how hard it is.

[John Weber]

Ed,

I have a use a Tormek for most of my sharpening needs, it will do everything very well. For an even finer edge on some of my chisels and planes I use David Charlesworth's waterstone method. I fine with these tools, and a high speed 8" grinder I can sharpen my turning tools, chisels, and most anything else I want very well. Not the least expensive, but the Tormek is easy to learn, very repeatable, and gives excellent results.

John

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Bob,

What make of Bevel gage is that?

[Bob Smalser]

What make of Bevel gage is that?

Dunno.

Spouse bought it for me last year at a boat festival from another exhibitor. It's Japanese and the cat's meow when you need a skinny one. Wish I'da gone back and got the two smaller sizes, too.

[Richard McComas]

Dunno.

Spouse bought it for me last year at a boat festival from another exhibitor. It's Japanese and the cat's meow when you need a skinny one. Wish I'da gone back and got the two smaller sizes, too.


Bob, by the picture of the bevel gauge you posted the band name of the tool looks like it is engraved on the side of the tool.

[Steve Cox]

For the turning tools, I use an 8" slow speed bench grinder and Wolverine jigs. Fast, repeatable but a little pricey to start. For the edge tools, I use a Lee Valley honing jig and bevel gauge. Again, fast, repeatable accuracy. Personally, I use diamond stones for rough honing and go to scary sharp for higher grits. I started with all sandpaper but then went to diamond for the coarser grits as I was going through too much sandpaper. I have honed tools by hand but I prefer the jig as it is easier to have repeatable accuracy.

[Bob Smalser]

Bob, by the picture of the bevel gauge you posted the band name of the tool looks like it is engraved on the side of the tool.

I saw that, too and just went out and looked at it.....marked "Shinwa Stainless Steel".

[John Miliunas]

Another vote for the 8" slow-speed grinder and Wolverine jig, plus a couple other "add-ons" for the Ellsworth grind and such. Works great! Well, for turning tools, anyway!:) Scary Sharp and guide are great for relatively low-cost chisel and iron sharpening. Slab of glass or granite and you're ready to go. I prefer the Veritas guide for that. The "high-buck" $olution, which I recently acquired and really love, is the Veritas MK II sharpening system. Gene Collison and I have been trading notes back & forth on it and have come up with a couple revelations regarding the system and, after a couple "tweaks", it's the cat's meow, although Gene still likes to do the very final micro-bevel on a stone. For me, I take it off the MK II and go for it. I've taken a pretty well abused, POS Stanley chisel (late model w/yellow handle) and, in just a bit over 5 minutes, I had it shaving the hair off the back of my hand. As I see it, in my very limited experience with sharpening, the MK II holds two distinct advantages over the Tormek: 1) Heckuva' lot faster. 2) A simple after-market purchase will get you a micro-bevel down to .5 micron. :) For myself, I find that if I have a quick, efficient and easy way to keep my tools sharp, there's a good chance that I'll do just that, thus keeping the cuts cleaner and use of the tools safer. Just MHO...:) :cool:

[Ted Shrader]

Ed -

As you have discovered there are a great many ways to sharpen tools. I have a Veritas hong guide that I use with stones. Also have a Tormek with various jigs to do jointer/planer knives and turning tools. They work for me.

See if you can find anyone locally that uses one of the various methods and give it a try. This is like many other woodworking items - personal preference.

By whatever method, you need sharp tools.

Regards,
Ted

[Tim Leo]

I have learned that sharpening tools is another one of those slippery slopes.
There are a million gadgets that claim to make things easier, but only work for a certain type of tool. For me, Norton waterstones and diamond paddles make fast work of sharpening. I also have a Grizzly G1036 to do the heavy grinding.

The real trick to sharpening isn't in the tools, it is repeated use to keep the tools razor sharp all the time. Now, when I get out my chisels, I get the dry ceramic sharpening stones out at the same time. That way I can touch up the business end of the chisels as I use them. When I use my lathe tools, I get out the small diamond paddles.