PDA

View Full Version : Non CA Finishes for Pens - Recommendations Please



Gene Hintze
12-18-2010, 5:58 AM
I have started turning pens with good results. People seem to love these things and they sell like hotcakes. I have been using a CA/BLO finish but the CA fumes are just tearing up my respiratory system so no more of that stuff. What alternative finishes are you pen turning pros using that produce a nice glossy finish that will hold up well? Something that would work well in a shop with a max temp of 60 degrees in the wintertime would be nice. I am hoping to knock out a few more before Christmas for my wife and sons so any recommendations would be appreciated.

Andrew Kertesz
12-18-2010, 6:45 AM
I use the HUT friction polish usually availabe at WC. I normally do 3 - 7 coats applied with a paper towel, then burnished with a semi-rough cloth like an old washcloth. I let each coat dry for at least 20 minutes after burnishing, then a final coat of Ren wax buffed on a Beall 3 wheel buffer. I never had much luck using CA/BLO and you are right the fumes are KILLER!!!

John Coloccia
12-18-2010, 7:38 AM
I do several coats of friction polish followed with some carbuba wax. I don't wait for anything to dry and just use a shop cloth (i.e. paper towel) to apply and burnish everything. I can't speak for what will happen to it it 10 years, but I know my personal pen has this treatment, it's seen daily use for the last year, and it looks and feels like the first day it came off the lathe. I've been playing with the CA/BLO thing, and I really just don't like the feel of the pen afterwards.

If it's just the fumes that are bothering you, though, you could easily setup a shopvac to suck up all the fumes. You could also try an "oderless" CA.

Joe Pfeifer
12-18-2010, 7:47 AM
I've used polyurethane on pens and it holds up pretty well. I guess if you can finish a floor with poly and walk on it, it should hold up for use on a pen as well. It does take longer to cure (days), but you can buff a real nice finish on it by putting the pen barrels back on the lathe and using automotive polishing compound, or rubbing compound if it's really rough.

Russell Eaton
12-18-2010, 8:27 AM
I have problems with the fumes also. I just have not been happy with other finishes. I use my dust collector and a fan blowing across the blank and that works for me. Just a idea. Russell

Matt Ranum
12-18-2010, 8:44 AM
I tried a few different things but spray can lacquer is what I use the most. There are certainly some fumes but not as bad as CA IMO.

Paul Douglass
12-18-2010, 9:23 AM
I have not done it but I have seen some spectacular finishes done with a cheap air brush and lacquer. But the problem with the other than CA finishes is the wait time for things to dry. Introduces dust and garbage. I'd get a fan like Russel suggests.

Jeff Hamilton Jr.
12-18-2010, 9:39 AM
I had many problems with the CA finish also until I got a video from a guy named Eric Anderson (google his name with "pen" and you should get it). His system is real straightforward, he's very accessible to talk to (I've done that by e-mail) and the results have been flawless. And I am DEFINATELY no pro. I've tried lacquer, shellac, friction and the rest and the CA outshines them all -- literally and figuratively! As to the fumes, The fan does work and if you need, a 95 or higher mask that you can get at Home Depot or Lowes will kill the rest.

I'm not at all associated with Eric, just a very happy camper after being as frustrated as many of you.

Good luck! jeff

Ken Fitzgerald
12-18-2010, 9:41 AM
I have used Deft brushing lacquer and friction it on just like shellac.

I often will friction a light coat of BLO to pop the grain. Then friction 2 light coats of dewaxed shellac as a barrier over the BLO and follow this with several coats of frictioned Deft lacquer. Then buff if you desire.

Don Alexander
12-18-2010, 10:08 AM
Behlens turners finish is what i use so far it has held up very well it applies easily leaves a nice to the touch finish looks good and best of all 1 coat does the trick frictioned on adding more coats is a waste of time as it dissolves the coat thats on it and replaces it if its good enoigh for Barry Gross i figured it would work for me too

Dan Wasson
12-18-2010, 10:19 AM
+1 on the fan. I have a small 12" fan that blows across the blank. With the fan on, I have no problems, if I forget to turn the fan on, I notice it immediately.



I have problems with the fumes also. I just have not been happy with other finishes. I use my dust collector and a fan blowing across the blank and that works for me. Just a idea. Russell

Bernie Weishapl
12-18-2010, 10:38 AM
I use a couple of coats of shellac the spray with lacquer.

Michael James
12-18-2010, 10:58 AM
I've made some pens over the last yr and CA has it's place to help stabilze some blanks, but I think most use it for speed to the finish line. All the above suggestions - any traditional finishing methods will work, but they take time. Im making a hickory pen for a fiiend that I used several coats of sanding sealer spun on heavily....... dry in between and then 2 coats of antique oil. It should be ready to rub out today or tomorrow. Im just a hobbyist so I can afford that.
If you're using CA then you need a respirator, and a vac/vent/fan if you are in an enclosed room. If the fumes are causing you ANY problems, then I would encourage you to just say bye bye totally.
Interesting thread....seems to have listed all the standard finishes in 1 spot!
mj

Jim Burr
12-18-2010, 1:37 PM
If you are using, as everyone should be, proper respiratory precautions, you won't smell the CA catalyzing with air on your paper towel, rag or plastic sheeting...whatever application method you choose. Anyone using CA is a closed environment should be using a VOC rated respirator. Nowhere nearly as expensive a week in ICU from respiratory failure.