Refurbished Handsaws.

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi. Attached are photo's of 2 handsaws I finished refurbishing. The hardback is an unmarked 13 1/2" tenon saw resharpened to 10 tpi rip tooth. Quite a heavy saw. Its hard to pick up in the photo but I lightly filed a x stitch pattern on the brass back. The next one is an early Atkins 26" saw. There was too much blade flex for my liking so I removed 8"of saw plate from the handle end bringing it back to a comfortable 18". The teeth were reshaped to a 9 tpi rip tooth.

Alo pictured my favoured saw set. A Stanley 42x.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/Hand%20saws/SDC10682.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/Hand%20saws/SDC10681.jpg


http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/Hand%20saws/SDC10683.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/Hand%20saws/SDC10684.jpg

[Jonathan McCullough]

I've got one of those heavy back saws; I think it's British, and I like the extra heft. The saws look pretty nice, but . . . . too much blade flex?

[Jim Koepke]

Nice looking fix ups.

jtk

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Jonathan. When I mentioned too much blade flex I was not talking about the brass back saw but the Atkins Saw.

[Stewie Simpson]

Thanks Jim.

[Johnny Kleso]

Very Nice Job.....

[Joe A Faulkner]

End results look great. Do you have any before pictures? What process did you use to reburbish the blades? I just started on reburshing hand planes and have used a combination of electrolysis, scotch brite pads, and sandpaper. I have an old handsaw in the shed that I plan to restore, and am curious as to your technique. Thanks.

[Stewie Simpson]

End results look great. Do you have any before pictures? What process did you use to reburbish the blades? I just started on reburshing hand planes and have used a combination of electrolysis, scotch brite pads, and sandpaper. I have an old handsaw in the shed that I plan to restore, and am curious as to your technique. Thanks.

Hi Joe. A 4 inch grinder fitted with a brass wire wheel is a very good starting point.

[Jonathan McCullough]

I would not recommend a brass wire wheel. I think most restorers would recommend mineral spirits, a razor scraper, and sandpaper on a block. Otherwise, you will almost surely rub the etching right off. If the saw is too far gone in terms of rust to save the etching, it's a valid question as to whether it will be worth the effort. But it can be very difficult to determine the amount of pitting, if any, behind what seems like a very light rust haze or what appears to be a carpet of furry rust. I've had good luck even with saws that seemed hopeless at the beginning, so with any saw it's a process of trial and error (or success). I'd recommend going slow and easy--the etch is an important part of the saw and allows you to identify it. A brass wire wheel would be good for the nuts though.

[Stewie Simpson]

I would not recommend a brass wire wheel. I think most restorers would recommend mineral spirits, a razor scraper, and sandpaper on a block. Otherwise, you will almost surely rub the etching right off. If the saw is too far gone in terms of rust to save the etching, it's a valid question as to whether it will be worth the effort. But it can be very difficult to determine the amount of pitting, if any, behind what seems like a very light rust haze or what appears to be a carpet of furry rust. I've had good luck even with saws that seemed hopeless at the beginning, so with any saw it's a process of trial and error (or success). I'd recommend going slow and easy--the etch is an important part of the saw and allows you to identify it. A brass wire wheel would be good for the nuts though.

And here I was thinking brass was softer than saw steel. Ooops.

[george wilson]

Brass is soft,but the rust it picks up isn't. Tripoli,used as an abrasive is made from iron oxide.

Soft metals like brass and copper are regularly used to make laps. Their softness allows particles of abrasives to embed in them.

It doesn't take much rubbing to blur or sluff over very shallow etchings,while rapidly rotating a lap against them.

I wouldn't even use the brass wheel on the nuts. It is more accurate to smooth them over by hand,avoiding rounding edges and slots over.

[Stewie Simpson]

Brass is soft,but the rust it picks up isn't. Tripoli,used as an abrasive is made from iron oxide.

Soft metals like brass and copper are regularly used to make laps. Their softness allows particles of abrasives to embed in them.

It doesn't take much rubbing to blur or sluff over very shallow etchings,while rapidly rotating a lap against them.

I wouldn't even use the brass wheel on the nuts. It is more accurate to smooth them over by hand,avoiding rounding edges and slots over.

Thanks for the advise George. It does make pefect logic.