Karl Andersson
12-16-2010, 1:31 PM
Just a quick display of my latest neander build project - I did a compete gut and rebuild of one of our bathrooms earlier this summer and my wife was patient enough to wait for me to do the cabinet doors with traditional joinery and some carving. She wanted a "Roman" look to go along with the new jetted tub (?), so I planned to paint the wood off-white and have classical lines in the cabinets. She also wanted a lion - therefore the carving. I am posting a more detailed message on how I did the lion carving over in the SMC woodcarving section.
174015174018
The lion door was from a decent salvageable solid cherry cabinet that was in the room already - I just added the lion as an applied carving and painted it.
The smaller doors all have frames made from leftover red oak T&G flooring boards (different home improvement project). The frames all have haunched, pegged blind M&T joints. The small doors are for the towel cabinet, so they're well-ventilated by having dowels as fill. Don't do that unless you really love your brace and bit. The panel under the sink is Radiata, stepped with an old Japanese dado plane and then decorated with a wooden moulding plane.
174011
The largest, double-panel door is made of "harder" boards of Radiata pine. It has hand-chopped and sawn M&T through-joints, drawbored and pegged and raised panels done with wooden rabbet planes. I have found that Radiata with little pink/red pits and streaks is OK wood for carving and working. It held up to the drawboring, so maybe it's good enough.
174016174013
Tools: I used my 14” drawknife (marked W.Deroch, Brune, and Moorestown), Sargent transitional jointer and my long Revonoc jack plane to remove the tongue and resize and joint the sticks, keeping the factory-made groove for the panel to rest in on the one door. Notice the stylish workbench and vises....workbench? I don't need no stinking workbench! Actually, this exercise made me realize I need one very badly. Of course, if you don't have one, don't let that stop you from trying out your tools.
174014
Chopping multiple mortises with a ¼-inch Sorby mortise chisel. These are blind mortises for the dowel doors, so I squared the bottoms with the lock mortise chisel shown.
174012
The capitals of the columns were carved as well – although the column fluting was shamefully done with a ‘lectric router. Here I used a French Curve scraper that had the same radius as my bench gouges to lay out the design – that way, my tools fit the design and I got a cleaner shape. I used several gouges and chisels to finish it, both antique and modern.
174017
Panel raising tools – on the left is an old Japanese dado plane with double knickers and a blade ¼ in thick by ¾ in wide that I got in a box of old woodies in Japan. I used this plane to make a step in the edge of the board, bringing it to ¼ in thickness to seat in the frame groove. This plane used to have a cross-handle through the body that someone sawed off flush with the body.
On the right is a 2” skewed rabbet plane with the body marked Wm Goldsmith, PHILAD, Warranted and the blade marked JAMES.CAM. According to the tag the collector I bought it from placed on it, it is the “B” imprint (?), dating from 1837-1868, so unless the Japanese plane is older, this is the oldest tool used on the project. I used this plane and a straight board clamped to the panel to raise the bevel.
Thanks to you folks on this forum for my education and inspiration,
Karl
174015174018
The lion door was from a decent salvageable solid cherry cabinet that was in the room already - I just added the lion as an applied carving and painted it.
The smaller doors all have frames made from leftover red oak T&G flooring boards (different home improvement project). The frames all have haunched, pegged blind M&T joints. The small doors are for the towel cabinet, so they're well-ventilated by having dowels as fill. Don't do that unless you really love your brace and bit. The panel under the sink is Radiata, stepped with an old Japanese dado plane and then decorated with a wooden moulding plane.
174011
The largest, double-panel door is made of "harder" boards of Radiata pine. It has hand-chopped and sawn M&T through-joints, drawbored and pegged and raised panels done with wooden rabbet planes. I have found that Radiata with little pink/red pits and streaks is OK wood for carving and working. It held up to the drawboring, so maybe it's good enough.
174016174013
Tools: I used my 14” drawknife (marked W.Deroch, Brune, and Moorestown), Sargent transitional jointer and my long Revonoc jack plane to remove the tongue and resize and joint the sticks, keeping the factory-made groove for the panel to rest in on the one door. Notice the stylish workbench and vises....workbench? I don't need no stinking workbench! Actually, this exercise made me realize I need one very badly. Of course, if you don't have one, don't let that stop you from trying out your tools.
174014
Chopping multiple mortises with a ¼-inch Sorby mortise chisel. These are blind mortises for the dowel doors, so I squared the bottoms with the lock mortise chisel shown.
174012
The capitals of the columns were carved as well – although the column fluting was shamefully done with a ‘lectric router. Here I used a French Curve scraper that had the same radius as my bench gouges to lay out the design – that way, my tools fit the design and I got a cleaner shape. I used several gouges and chisels to finish it, both antique and modern.
174017
Panel raising tools – on the left is an old Japanese dado plane with double knickers and a blade ¼ in thick by ¾ in wide that I got in a box of old woodies in Japan. I used this plane to make a step in the edge of the board, bringing it to ¼ in thickness to seat in the frame groove. This plane used to have a cross-handle through the body that someone sawed off flush with the body.
On the right is a 2” skewed rabbet plane with the body marked Wm Goldsmith, PHILAD, Warranted and the blade marked JAMES.CAM. According to the tag the collector I bought it from placed on it, it is the “B” imprint (?), dating from 1837-1868, so unless the Japanese plane is older, this is the oldest tool used on the project. I used this plane and a straight board clamped to the panel to raise the bevel.
Thanks to you folks on this forum for my education and inspiration,
Karl