Hollowing Tools

[Patrick Doody]

So currently I'm using the Sorby hollowmaster and although it works, I don't enjoy using it(feels like I'm fighting the tool most of the time, even when I'm getting good cuts). I'm looking into an upgrade and with all the options out there and little info about them i thought I'd ask what everyone is using and what they like/dislike about them.

with the Sorby i feel like i'm fighting the tool, and sharpening it isn't the funnest job either. i have been able to get decent results with it, the tool gets the job done, I just feel that I would enjoy the process better with a different tool.

also, I haven't ruled out a system like the monster or the Jamison. but I'm not a production turner and have a hard time spending more than $200 on a hollowing tool, though i haven't totally ruled them out if they are that much better.

I'm really curious about the easy hollower if anyone has any experience with that. any advice you have for me or any reviews of the tools you use would be great, also I'm not opposed to building my own system. Thanks in Advance!

[bob svoboda]

I have John Jordan's tools and really like them-you might check them out. I also have the Easy Hollower-it doesn't seem (to me) to work too well to 'hog out' material, but works great on the fine finishing cuts-leave a very smooth surface-a little learning curve to get it just right.

[Terry Gerros]

I don't know about the easy hollower, but the Proforme tools are an absolute joy to use. Check out Woodworkers Supply as they have a few of them on sale now.

[John Keeton]

...the tool gets the job done, I just feel that I would enjoy the process better with a different tool....but I'm not a production turner and have a hard time spending more than $200 on a hollowing tool, though i haven't totally ruled them out if they are that much better.Patrick, you have succintly stated my state of affairs just prior to buying Randy's Monster articulated system. I had hollowed several vessels with the tools I had, and was satisfied with the results - but, not the process. I am far from a production turner, and don't ever aspire to being one. But, yes, the Monster is "that much better."

My guess is that you can easily go from one hollowing tool to the next, trying to find that perfect tool to ease the process. The fact remains, they all are subject to the same rotational forces, and they all are labor intensive. Some will do it better than others - no doubt. But, after buying 3-4 tools at $100 +/- each, you could be riding in a Cadillac for the same money and enjoying the ride!

Just my opinion.

[Michael James]

Ditto what John said - Im new and bit the bullet for the mini system, knowing space will never allow me to have an "adult" lathe.
I found this place looking for Jeff Nicol, and his hollowing tool. I dont mind the rodeo on the straight cuts, but the swan neck, under the shoulder cuts were getting agonizing. I reluctantly clamped on vice griprs until Mr. Nicol could send me a torque handle which makes it 10x better. I know that I'm drawn to the hollow forms, and John's right on with the fact that a few tools that don't suit your wants is = to enough $$ to get you into a decent rig. Follow your muse.
mj

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have the monster system and have never looked back. I had bought several different hollowing tools and got tired of being beat to death with them. Results as John said were good but I just didn't like the process getting there. If I would have bought the monster to begin with I would have actually saved money. It is a joy to use. I am a hobby turner and don't use it all the time but it is definitely the best buy I made.

[Jim Burr]

Monster...hands down

[Scott Hackler]

...in the mean time, before your Monster setup commitment....

I have the Sorby Hollowmaster straight tool. I was having difficulty getting decent cuts and the tool was bucking like crazy. I took the cutting bit and ground the bevel back quite a bit more than stock. This helped for me, because the bottom of the cutting edge was no longer in the way. I also sharpen mine with a raised burr. I do this with a diamond hone. First a couple strokes across the top, completely flat, to remove previous burrs. Then stoking only from bottom to top, I use the diamond hone to raise a burr edge on the cutting edge of the bit.

This was like night and day for me. I can now use this tool with moderate success and less agony. I still want a Monster hollowing rig, but dont feel like I have to rush out and spend that money right now.

Hope this helps

[Wally Dickerman]

I agree with John. Take a deep breath and buy the Monster tool. Instead of buying another tool that you possibly won't be satisfied with, take the plunge.

I started using hollowing tools a long time ago. My first was a shop-made boring bar that did the job just fine. Cost probably $15 at the time. I eventually wanted to do HF's with a smaller opening so had to go to something better. I got a Stewart arm brace tool and have used that since 1987. There is a large learning curve to using that tool well. I recently got a Monster from Randy. I've only used it on a couple of HF's so far, (been doing other things) but I find that the learning curve is much less than with the hand held Stewart. (The Sorby arm brace tool is a copy of the Stewart)

Wally

[Bill Bolen]

I exclusivly used the hollow master for a year or so before making my own articulated system. The main problem for me with the hollow master was getting it sharp enough to cut well. I quit follow their instructions to hone across the top of the bit. Took the bit to the grinder and ended up with a much better cut. That being said I believe the square bits either 3/16" or 1/4" cut much better than the Sorby bit even at its best. I get a lot of enjoyment from making and using my own home made tools so my preferred metnod is my steel snake which is much like the Elbo tool. If I were to buy, Randy's monster would be my choice. Pic bellow is my $80 Snake...Bill...

[Patrick Doody]

looks like i should maybe i should just pony up and order a monster rig. frickin Laser beams. in the mean time i'll play around with the sharpening on the sorby. as always thanks for the great advice and reviews. of course i think i see a lathe upgrade a few years down the road so i should probably pick up the full sized set.

the monster is at the top of my short list now. I better win the poker game tonight, wish me luck!

[Steve Schlumpf]

Good choice! Looking forward to seeing your new hollowing tool gloat!

[David E Keller]

I agree with Scott about the sharpening of the cutters. I never liked the way they cut when just honing the top of the cutter, so I just sharpen them by hand on the grinder platform... I sharpen them upside down so the wheel drags up a burr. I haven't tried hand honing the cutting edge mostly because I've been satisfied with the results straight from the grinder.

I bought the monster system, and I've been very happy with it. It'll pay for itself just due to the amount of ibuprofen I used to take after long hand hollowing sessions.

[Terry Gerros]

One problem I suspect many of us have is fairly simple: If you have problems with a tool, it catches too frequently, it doesn't cut clean enough, there is too much rotational force, ad nauseum...we tend to put the tool in the drawer and look for the next turn to make us better turners. You wonder why those skilled turners make things look easy? Again fairly simple, they stick with the tool, try different techniques, and keep at it until they get the tool figured out. Once there it is as simple as can be. You can't man handle any tool, you have to caress it until it gives itself over to you.

[Jeff Rich]

I have made my own "Ellsworth" style tools prior to learning the process of hollowing.
I got a lot of catches with the bent tools due to my inexperience of using.
Now I am a little more experienced in my learning and rarely get catches.
There is a definite learning curve and a lot of feeling the tool to get the cut right.

[Linda Persoon]

Patrick,

I'm not familiar with the differing hollowing tools and/or systems. However, I am very pleased with the Kelton Hollowing Rig ordered from Lee Valley.

This rig eliminates the rotational forces on the tool, yet the turner has full control over lateral and depth movement. I did, however, have to move my lathe away from the wall to take advantage of this. This rig is heavy, so the plan is for a shelf near the lathe and about the same height for storing the unit. It surprised me the added "feel" I could get from the cut once the torsion issue was eliminated. Dare I say - "relaxing". I did buy the Kelton hollowing tools, but I think the rig will work using any tool with a 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" shaft.

Actually, any system that eliminates the rotational forces on the tool while allowing depth and lateral movement is a very big step in the right direction - handmade or purchased. Also would want to have the assurance of consistent height of the tool tip throughout the cut (parallel to the lathe bed & at center) -if that makes any sense.

I'm not an experienced turner, by any means. But this setup works for me. For the more experienced this type of rig might seem unnecessary or even limiting.

Let us know what you decide & how it works!

Linda

[Ray Bell]

After months of reading the virtues of the Monster, I bought one. This is the complete system, including laser. Lots of parts here. It has been laying on my work bench for over a month now, still in the wrappings. The reason being is that I'm pretty sure I will have to modify my lathe stand to use this. I have a backboard on the stand, and I think it will be too close to allow for movement of the hollowing rig. Any thought on this from other Monster owners?

Linda, a woman, from Chewela, new hollowing system....I'm guessing you are Duff's sister-in-law. I did see both of you at the Clewes demo in Spokane, but had to leave early, and didn't have a chance to introduce myself.
Have fun turning, and post photos sometimes of your work.

[John Keeton]

Ray, there is very little extension of the articulated arm over the back side of the ways. Unless your backboard is extremely close to the lathe, I can't see that as a problem. In fact, I doubt it extends any further than the handle of your bowl gouge on a push cut.

You should get that Monster up and running. It will take you all of 30 minutes!

[Ray Bell]

Thanks John, maybe I'll work on it this weekend. Just seems to be so many parts it's a little overwhelming.

[David E Keller]

There's really nothing to it, Ray. The articulating rig is very easy to set up then you've got all the time in the world to play around with the various cutters. I'd suggest playing around with the cutters on an open form so that you can see what you are feeling... It's helpful when you go hollowing and can't see what the cutters are doing.

[Ray Bell]

Thanks for the encouragement David, I am anxious to try this thing.