HELP! Arbor problem

[Rick Moyer]

Saw is a G0691 Grizzly. Here's what happened and here is the problem.

I put my thin kerf rip blade on (which I have never done on this saw before). Apparently I didn't have it tight, as it spun somewhat on the arbor. I believe the nut bottomed out before the blade was tight because of the thin kerf:confused:?? Unfortunately I believe it spun the closest thread(s) because it was very difficult to remove. I had to pry it off with some long pieces of wood. Now my regular blade is also very difficult to get on all the way as I believe the nut won't tighten all the way because of the last thread(s).:(

Q? Can I just clean up the threads? I suspect not as they would have to be re-tapped (die'd) and I'm not sure if a die would go all the way down to the last thread. I also don't know what size the die would be or even if it would fit into my tool (doubtful). I'm guessing I'll have to get a new arbor, but that brings the problem of replacing it, which I'm not real comfortable that I'll be able to get it properly alligned without run-out.

I know, call Grizzly, which I will do tomorrow. I thought you may have some insight.

[Bill Huber]

The saw arbor has acme threads on it, they are kind of square on the top and not pointed like a machine screw is.

I would think with a little work with a small file you could clean them up.

You could also use a good flat washer, a large one, the size of the one that is on the arbor nut now and this will take care of the problem. Not just a flat washer that you would put on a bolt but a machined flat washer, I think Ace Hardware has them.

[Rick Moyer]

Bill , thanks for the quick reply. I think I will try to clean things up with a file, but was a little concerned about screwing things up more.

The washer idea would probably work, but I will need to change my measuring tape (fence) to make up for the difference. What constitutes a machined flat washer? How will I tell the difference?

[Bill Huber]

You would not have to change anything the washer would go in and then the arbor nut you have now. The blade first, then the washer and then the arbor nut.
On my old Craftsman I had to do it that way because the shaft had been screwed up before I got the saw.

[Rick Moyer]

My mistake. You are certainly correct. blade-flange-washer-nut. blade still in same place.

[Chip Lindley]

Didn't your TS come with an arbor washer to be installed next to the blade before the nut? Every TS I've owned included one--even my much-maligned 70's Crapsman! (may it R.I.P.) The only time I leave off the flange washer is when using a dado set.

[Jim O'Dell]

On this saw, flange washer has a smooth side, and a side with the middle dished out. Rick, are you sure you didn't get the flange on backwards? Several of us have the smooth side toward the blade, and the nut bottoms out just before the flange tightens against the blade. When I did it, the blade slowed down during a cut (normal kerf blade) but the motor didn't slow down. I was real confused until I remembered a thread here about the same sort of thing on a 690 or 691. I've since etched the word "out" on the outside of the flange.
Instead of a file, I think I'd use some Emory cloth. Less chance of filing a flat spot. Wrap the cloth around the arbor and do that shoeshine move. spin the arbor a little, and do some more. 3 times should clean it up fine. I've found that the blades are a little tight on the arbor threads anyway. Shouldn't take much work.

[Joe Hathcoat]

Yep I did the same thing. If it stops before it tightens on the blade then you have your flange on backwards.

[Rick Moyer]

Well, I wondered about this myself. I have always (with a regular kerf Woodworker II) put the flange washer on flat-side-first, as the nut will nestle into the dished-out side for a perfect fit. Is this wrong? I did the same with the thin kerf Freud blade which then caused the problem. IF I HAD reversed the flange washer I suspect I would not have had a problem. SO, which is the correct way? If I did this wrong, why would there even BE a dished-out side?

Jim, I think the blade stopped, or at least slowed way down, that's how I noticed. Are you saying you put the flange washer on dished-side in? There is nothing in the manual saying which way is correct.

The problem now is that the nut will not tighten the regular kerf Woodworker II, I think because the thread(s) is messed up. In other words, there is some thread (metal) material in between where the outer and inner thread diameter is. Like the thread stripped. IF I can clean this out to where the threads are good again I will be OK. Otherwise I may need to use a machined washer like Bill suggested.

[Dave Lehnert]

Could use a blade stabilizer.

173596

[Jim O'Dell]

Yes Rick, dished side toward the blade, flat side toward the nut. I made the same mistake thinking the nut fits perfectly in the dished out part. but the flat side should go toward the nut on this saw. Try running the nut in without a blade on the saw several times. If it is something in the grooves keeping the nut from tightening down, this might clean it out. A good stiff brush and some cleaner (WD40 maybe?) might do it too.

With the full kerf blade on, is the washer still on backward? It will still not tighten completely! I've not used a thin kerf blade on mine. Jim.

[Rick Moyer]

Back up and running! I was able to file out my thread problem enough to allow the blade and nut to seat properly, with the dished out side toward to blade! Be nice if the manual said which way it should go!


With the full kerf blade on, is the washer still on backward?
No Jim, I have now reversed the flange washer as noted for the regular kerf as well, but I had always had it on the other way before and never had a problem with the regular kerf blade.

[Dick Brown]

The reason for the dish on the flange is to get the pressure out away from the arbor and onto the blade. Just think that the larger radius of the outer edge of the flange puts the driving force out 2" + - on the blade and thus does not need to be as tight as if it were just the nut putting pressure basicly in the center of the blade

[Norman Hitt]

The reason for the dish on the flange is to get the pressure out away from the arbor and onto the blade. Just think that the larger radius of the outer edge of the flange puts the driving force out 2" + - on the blade and thus does not need to be as tight as if it were just the nut putting pressure basicly in the center of the blade

It also helps "stabilize" the blade when the contact/clamping point is further out from the center of the blade/arbor.

[Stephen Pereira]

I'd be interested to hear what Grizzly says..they might have an easy fix.

On my Grizzly TS the fit between the arbor and nut is tight on the first few threads. So tight that I needed to use a wrench. I applied valve grinding compound(available at auto parts stores)to the arbor and worked the nut back and forth..worked good. Just be sure to remove all of the abrasive paste from both arbor and nut when your done.