First Table Saw Recomendations

[Aaron Kitchell]

Hi All,

I'm in the process of outfitting my "shop" (aka my garage) and am wanting to purchase a table saw. I only want to spend $500-$600 and was curious what people would recommend. I've been looking at the Ridgid R4512 but have been reading mixed reviews. Any pointers would be great.

Aaron

[Victor Robinson]

Are you wanting a portable or stationary saw?

Grizzly is a good brand to put on your list as far as bang for your buck goes.

Their "Polar Bear" (white) versions are excellent money-savers for the time-being. The G0715P, while slightly over-budget, is a lot of saw for the money. It also has a riving knife.

[Neil Brooks]

Buy it once. Buy it right.

Stretch your budget, if at all possible, for a table saw.

I, too, like the Grizzly saws, for the money, but would also keep my eye out for a used Delta Unisaw, on Craigslist.

And am ;)

[Brian Kent]

Hi Aaron.

Around here, your bid is $500 - $600 and we'll come in at $2,000 that you should spend.

Since the best saw is probably a cabinet saw with a riving knife, I would probably be agreeing with Victor about the Grizzly / Polar Bear saw for $758 + freight. I remember pretty good ratings for the Rigid as a contractor's saw, so it depends on whether you meant $600 solid or "about" $600.

If you look for a Craig's List cabinet saw, make sure you have an after-market splitter and can handle 220.

Have fun sorting through all of our opinions as you choose your saw.

Brian

[Justin Bukoski]

Aaron,

What do you want to build and what tools do you have? A TS may not be the next thing you need. I know many people think the TS is the heart of the shop but most things done on a TS can be done with other tools albeit a little slower.

If you must have a TS, save your money until you can buy a little more saw than what $500-$600 will get you. I personally refuse to use a saw without a riving knife or a very good splitter that stays on the saw.

[Aaron Kitchell]

With regards to the unisaw, does the year make a big difference? I see lots of unisaws pop up on craigslist, but some look pretty old, while others appear to be much newer. What should I be looking for within the unisaw?

[Aaron Kitchell]

I've been building wooden toys for a not for profit, but have been inching my way into furniture. Currently I have a 12" miter saw, planer, 6" jointer, router etc and have been borrowing my father-in-law's Bosch portable table saw. However, the table saw has some alignment issues that have proven difficult to correct. With that, I'm wanting to step up before I get to building furniture as I will need better alignment for glue ups. In terms of preference, I've been looking at hybrids, but am not necessarily opposed to either a contractor TS or a cabinet TS but would prefer to avoid rewiring for 220v.

[Justin Bukoski]

Aaron, how serious are you about building furniture? Can you think of 5 or 6 projects right now that you want to build? If so, have you thought about style? What pieces etc?

I ask this because I went down the path you are going (a couple of times) and ended up wasting money on construction tools (ie portable or contractor saws) when what I really wanted was something with more precision. I was a very frustrated woodworker until I bought my first cabinet saw. Then I nearly cut my thumb off and realized I was doing stuff on the table saw that I should be doing on another tool.

I think most beginning furniture makers are better off with a good bandsaw and 2 or 3 good handplanes.

[John M Wilson]

Let me preface my comments with the note that I am not fit to unloosen the sandal straps of the majority of professional woodworkers that regularly post here.

I am a very beginning woodworker, and my projects are more along the lines of rough carpentry than fine furniture making. I am still in the steep part of the learning curve.

My workshop is also my 2 car garage, which contains 2 cars when I am not playing with wood. ;)

For me, portability and safety took precedence over cast iron stability, and I purchased a used Bosch 4100 on the mobile stand. It has a riving knife, and well engineered guards that encourage their use.

The saw does everything I have needed it to (so far). I am sure that if my skills someday improve to the point that I need a better saw, I can sell the Bosch for close to what I paid for it, and I can move on up to some of the saws that have been suggested in the posts above.

One thing I learned about "setting up" my shop, however, was that the cash outflow only just began with the capital for the saw. There are accessories, blades, hand tools, (the list is endless) to buy, so don't blow your entire budget on the ultimate saw you will never have to replace. Because there is always a better saw, or planer, or drill press, or (fill in the blank).

Good Luck!

[Matthew Sherman]

If time isn't a constraint good deals come up on CL if you can wait it out.

[Van Huskey]

Hang on looking for a good used cabinet saw as long as you can...

The "newest" Rigid doesn't get the favorable reviews that the last 2 versions did.

[glenn bradley]

I ask this because I went down the path you are going (a couple of times) and ended up wasting money

As Justin says; I too bought a used contractor saw to start (along with other "starter" tools) but, I was not sure I would even stick with it. Once it became apparent I was going to, I bought the best I could afford OR waited till I had saved enough for a proper tool. I still have the Craftsman/Orion hybrid that Sears sold for awhile and although many other tools have been upgraded, that saw just keeps meeting my needs and so my upgrade money has gone elsewhere. If you are reasonably confident you are going to stick with this I too would give the Griz hybrid a hard look in your budget range.

[Dewayne Reding]

Tablesaw is the most used tool in my shop by a wide margin. If the budget it tight, I would rather see you spend $100 on an old Craftsman to get you by. That buys you time to either increase the budget, or find a deal on something used for your $600. You can dump the first saw easy enough. My "good saw" is just a Craftsman/Orion hybrid I paid about $900 for, but it is still a world better than any contractor style saw I ever used.

[Neil Brooks]

Let me preface my comments with the note that I am not fit to unloosen the sandal straps of the majority of professional woodworkers that regularly post here.

I am a very beginning woodworker, and my projects are more along the lines of rough carpentry than fine furniture making. I am still in the steep part of the learning curve.

My workshop is also my 2 car garage, which contains 2 cars when I am not playing with wood. ;)

For me, portability and safety took precedence over cast iron stability, and I purchased a used Bosch 4100 on the mobile stand. It has a riving knife, and well engineered guards that encourage their use.

The saw does everything I have needed it to (so far). I am sure that if my skills someday improve to the point that I need a better saw, I can sell the Bosch for close to what I paid for it, and I can move on up to some of the saws that have been suggested in the posts above.

One thing I learned about "setting up" my shop, however, was that the cash outflow only just began with the capital for the saw. There are accessories, blades, hand tools, (the list is endless) to buy, so don't blow your entire budget on the ultimate saw you will never have to replace. Because there is always a better saw, or planer, or drill press, or (fill in the blank).

Good Luck!

Okay, okay.... True confession time.

I have a Bosch 4100, too -- replete with the extension tables, digital rip fence, and a Forrest WWII blade.

But ... I'm constantly keeping an eye out for a great deal, on CL, on a cabinet saw.

Could I use my Bosch for the rest of my life ? Probably.

Do I want a cabinet saw with an excellent fence and enough power to rip through titanium ? Yep.

Do I want something around which I can build a great in/outfeed table, and manhandle sheet goods ? Yep.

If I had it to do over again .... ? I'd have held out for a good deal on a cabinet saw.

And still might ;)

My Bosch won't leave me. I can leave my Forrest Dado King on it, if/when its big brother arrives :)

[scott spencer]

I'm sure the R4512, the identical Cman 21833, or possibly the PCB270TS would be fine once you get them aligned and mount a good blade, but if you could stretch your budget to a Grizzly G0715P or Cman 22116 I think you'd have a much nicer, heavier saw, with solid wings and a better fence. On sale the 22116 can fall near the $700 mark. I'm not sure how much the new General International 50-200R M1 (http://www.general.ca/site_general/g_produits/saw/50-200r.html)are going for, but might be worth investigating.

http://www.general.ca/site_general/g_pictures/50-200R.jpg http://cdn4.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/g/g0715p.jpg

[Craig Ryder]

Hang on looking for a good used cabinet saw as long as you can...


Hi

Like the OP I am looking for a decent TS too. Getting a used saw is common advice. Is there a short check list of what to look for in a used saw so you are not nickle and dimed to death or get a saw that wont set up properly? Any kind of cabinet saw that is much below 1k is going to have some wear and tear isn't it?

thanks,
Craig

[BOB OLINGER]

Hi All,

I'm in the process of outfitting my "shop" (aka my garage) and am wanting to purchase a table saw. I only want to spend $500-$600 and was curious what people would recommend. I've been looking at the Ridgid R4512 but have been reading mixed reviews. Any pointers would be great.

Aaron

Hi Aaron,

Where do you live? A long shot, but a nice Steel City cabinet saw showed up today on Craigslist for $700. Looks like a good deal. This is in Central IA. If I can help, let me know. Otherwise, my suggestion, for what's it's worth, is to look for a good used contractor's saw. I purchased my 10" Delta for $200 at a garage sale. I know this takes patience. Although I'm purchasing a SawStop later this month, I've used a contractors table saw for close to 40 yrs. They are a good starter, and you can almost always get your money back on selling when you upgrade if you buy it right.

[Prashun Patel]

If you have a quality saw now, then hold out for a major upgrade. If you have 220, then get a cabinet. If not, and don't ever want to have 220, then get a hybrid. Cruise CL.

But save up yr pennies until you can spend closer to 1000. Most contractor saws (which is where yr price point is) will only be a modest step up from your Bosch.

For better power, dust collection and stability, I think it wise to wait.

If you are just itching to put that $600 to use now, then have you considered getting a bandsaw as a compliment to yr Bosch?

[Neil Brooks]

Prashun ....

If your comments were directed to me, then ... that's what I did: bought and upgraded a Grizzly G0555X band saw.

Which has taken a LOT of the pressure -- real or imaginary -- off of the desire to upgrade to a cabinet saw :)

So ... I agree.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Aaron, if you think you're going to stay with the hobby for the long term here's what I would do.

1) Pick up a used contractor saw and use it for a year or so while saving money for your next purchase

2) Having owned a contractor saw, then a good cabinet saw (General 650) I wouldn't buy another cabinet saw.

3) Buy a Hammer K3 or a B3 if you want a shaper in it. I purchased a B3 Winner after selling my cabinet saw, and you couldn't convince me to go backwards to the 1950's if you paid me.

A slider such as the Hammer or MinMax is so much more capable, accurate and competent than a cabinet saw, they're not in the same universe.

A small slider such as the K3 with a 49" sliding table will crosscut plywood sheets, straight line rip furniture components and takes up the same space as a cabinet saw. Add the optional mobility kit and it wheels out of the way so you can park your cars. Options such as a scoring saw make flawless cuts on veneered or laminated materials.

Although I owned a good cabinet saw for many years, the only thing they're really good at is ripping. They were a great design whose time has passed for most applications.

regards, Rod.

[Prashun Patel]

That's what I get for not reading the WHOLE thread totally carefully. Sorry Neal!!!

[Aaron Kitchell]

Hi Aaron,

Where do you live? A long shot, but a nice Steel City cabinet saw showed up today on Craigslist for $700. Looks like a good deal. This is in Central IA. If I can help, let me know. Otherwise, my suggestion, for what's it's worth, is to look for a good used contractor's saw. I purchased my 10" Delta for $200 at a garage sale. I know this takes patience. Although I'm purchasing a SawStop later this month, I've used a contractors table saw for close to 40 yrs. They are a good starter, and you can almost always get your money back on selling when you upgrade if you buy it right.


I'm in Oregon. Thanks for the heads up though. Sounds like I will continue using my Bosch and save up for the "saw of my dreams".

[Jerome Hanby]

With regards to the unisaw, does the year make a big difference? I see lots of unisaws pop up on craigslist, but some look pretty old, while others appear to be much newer. What should I be looking for within the unisaw?

When I was Unisaw shopping, I was specifically looking or an older one. Mine is late '40s vintage and solid as a rock with an RI motor. Including the gas and the required stop for Whitt's BBQ in Athens, AL on my way back from picking it up in Nashville, it cost about $400. I spent another $100+ on a fiberglass reproduction goose egg motor cover, bit the rest has been/will be elbow grease and some paint.

[BOB OLINGER]

I'm in Oregon. Thanks for the heads up though. Sounds like I will continue using my Bosch and save up for the "saw of my dreams".

Aaron,
I'd keep an eye on Craigslist daily. Don't disregard stepping up a little at a time. Again, IMO, if you buy right, you can resell table saws fairly easily.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I have a mid 70's Unisaw I bought on Craigs' for $500 a few years ago, and I have put it on a mobile base and upgraded the fence. I really like it, going from a cabinet saw it was great. It shares my garage with my 1950 Chevy so I have to be able to move it around. A good mobile base on a heavy saw works fine as long as you don't have too many bumps in your floor. Not having 220V is a deal breaker, though. If all you have is 120 you aren't going to have much available to you in the way of a cabinet saw. I could rewire my Unisaw motor to 120 but it would require a 30 amp breaker.

However, I find a good bandsaw to be more versatile than my table saw for most of the kind of work that I do. I just got done building a nice little occasional table with nothing but my bandsaw, jointer, planer, and lathe, and I started with a couple of blocks of what was going to be firewood. I resawed everything out of the blocks with the bandsaw. It's an old 16" Walker Turner with a 3 horsepower motor. I don't have to move my car out of the garage to use the bandsaw, but I pretty much have to if I'm going to use the table saw.

[Matthew Hills]

I've been building wooden toys for a not for profit, but have been inching my way into furniture. Currently I have a 12" miter saw, planer, 6" jointer, router etc and have been borrowing my father-in-law's Bosch portable table saw. However, the table saw has some alignment issues that have proven difficult to correct. With that, I'm wanting to step up before I get to building furniture as I will need better alignment for glue ups. In terms of preference, I've been looking at hybrids, but am not necessarily opposed to either a contractor TS or a cabinet TS but would prefer to avoid rewiring for 220v.

Alignment is something that's worth figuring out for all your tools. Maybe start a thread to see if you can make progress on that? (ie, is the blade not flat, or the miter slots not aligned to the blade, etc.)

Once you address the alignment, a crosscut sled is the best thing you can make for your saw. Runners in the miter slots and a fence square to the blade (look up 5-cut method for advice on aligning).

Make your own zero-clearance insert to help keep the cuts clean (your sled will do this too)

I borrowed a buddy's Bosch 4000 for some of my early projects. It worked pretty well -- I liked the blade guard and dust collection. I felt the biggest limitation was the short fence and space in front of the blade. A crosscut sled can be sized to help with crosscuts. You can work on auxiliary fences to help lengthen your registration surface for rips.

I ended up getting a JET Proshop saw. It brings more weight and table size, but lousy blade guard and dust collection. Still prefer a circular saw on track for breaking down plywood sheets, though.

Matt