Taper leg jig for a table saw

[Bo McCorkle]

Anyone have any good plans or ideas for a taper leg jig that's adjustable???

[Bill Huber]

Anyone have any good plans or ideas for a taper leg jig that's adjustable???

Here is mine, I am not sure if its good or not but it sure has worked great for me.

The biggest difference in mine from most of the ones I have seen is the fact that my jig dose not use the miter slot of the saw, it uses the fence. This way I can use it to true up a side of a large board as well as just doing tapers.

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/taper

169765

[Todd Hoppe]

I just use a piece of plywood with some toggle clamps screwed to it. After I mark and place one leg, I screw on another piece of ply as a fence. It works great. Perhaps some T-Track would make this more easily adjustable.

Edit: Bill's image is exactly what I was thinking of when I mentioned adding T-Track

[Erik France]

Might take a look at the Dubby taper jig (http://www.ptreeusa.com/taper_jigs.htm) for some ideas. I was about to build one like it, but using my rip fence for registration as Bill mentioned. As luck would have it, Peachtree ran a really good special on the Dubby so I ended up with it. I don't use the miter slider with it. I just ride it against my rip fence.

[Matt Meiser]

My new one is very similar to Bill's but I have separate blocks instead of his long strip for locating. I can't see the far end of his clearly, but one of my blocks is L-shaped to positively locate the end. I can even use my Shark Guard while using the new one. Before I had one of the cheap steel ones and was scared every time I used it.

[Ken Masco]

I have the Dubby Taper Jig and love it. Fully adjustable well made and accurate. Makes it hard to justify the time and cost of making your own.

[Kevin Womer]

Try the website for Charles Neil, he has a video of how to make a pretty nice sled that is pretty inexpensive. www.charlesneilwoodworking.com (http://www.charlesneilwoodworking.com)

[Frank Drew]

I used one of those cheap aluminum channel hinged at one end models; no hold downs or any sophisticated features, but it worked fine.

[Gene Waara]

ShopNotes #114, November/December, has the plans for a nice, easy to build taper jig. I recently bought the hardware to build it myself, once I get my Xmas projects completed.

[Dan Karachio]

Here is mine, I am not sure if its good or not but it sure has worked great for me.

The biggest difference in mine from most of the ones I have seen is the fact that my jig dose not use the miter slot of the saw, it uses the fence. This way I can use it to true up a side of a large board as well as just doing tapers.

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/taper

169765

Bill, I am becoming your biggest fan. I built a jig kind of like this, but missed on the idea of attaching that board to two slots. That is very smart. I am going to copy you this weekend! Oh, I also use the fence too - no miter slot and I can use it on the BS or TS.

[Victor Robinson]

I needed a straight/taper jig recently but didn't have the time to build one, though I had a bunch of plans and ideas laying around. I ended up ordering Rockler's taper jig, which is currently on sale for $60. It seems to be well-reviewed, and while I might have saved some money making my own, it's the holiday season and I need to be making gifts in the shop, not jigs!

[Aaron Berk]

I've got the ShopNotes sled as well. I built mine with out the miter slot guide.
I use it against my rip fence on either side of the blade.

It's a phenomenal jig.

Easy to build and works EXACTLY as it should.

[Doug Shepard]

I always had plans of making something like Woodhaven's taper jig
http://woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-4962-Large-Taper-Master/M/B001NZ2MD4.htm
until they had a riduculously good sale on them a year or so ago. I didn't think I could buy the materials for much less than what their sale price was so I ended up just buying one.

[Jeff Bratt]

Another shop built taper jig - in case you're still looking for ideas:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~jeffnann/WoodWorking/JigsAndFixtures/JigsAndFixtures.html#Taper_Fixture (http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ejeffnann/WoodWorking/JigsAndFixtures/JigsAndFixtures.html#Taper_Fixture)
Purchased HW for this is 4 knobs and 4 bolts, and a few screws and washers... somewhere around $10.

[Don Dorn]

I used one of those cheap aluminum channel hinged at one end models; no hold downs or any sophisticated features, but it worked fine.

Me too - it worked for years without any problems. I'm kind of surprised because I thought those were the defacto standard, it appears not. Frankly, I don't use mine anymore either opting to use the bandsaw and then clean up with a hand plane.

[Stephen Cherry]

My new one is very similar to Bill's but I have separate blocks instead of his long strip for locating. I can't see the far end of his clearly, but one of my blocks is L-shaped to positively locate the end. I can even use my Shark Guard while using the new one. Before I had one of the cheap steel ones and was scared every time I used it.

I vote for this one- with the stop it would be very difficult to mess up. Also with Bills jig, it would be possible to start with rough stock. Get rid of the fence, straitline one side, rotate the strait side down to the table, and straitline the other side. Set up the fence the desired distance for the leg width. With a strait side on the table and the other on the fence, rip to width, and rotate and rip again.

Cut to length.

Adjust fence, and taper.