Wop

[Chris Colman]

Hello Creekers!

Survey again.

What is your favorite wipe on poly finish?

Also, what do you use for an applicator?

[John Keeton]

Chris, I have used Satin Minwax for years on flatwork, and usually applied it with cheesecloth. In the year I have been turning, I have used just about every finish mentioned on the creek, and have come back to Minwax, but use the gloss mostly. I apply it with a small piece of paper shop towel.

Some years ago, Minwax was the Best Overall in an article in FWW, as I recall. It was also one of the cheapest, though the price has gone up in recent years.

[Donny Lawson]

Minwax gloss. I just use an old lint free cloth to apply it. Wear rubber gloves and tare a small piece off of a rag and dip it and wipe it and put it in the driveway to dry(the rag of course).It is combustable and I would like to keep my new shop.
Donny

[Chris Colman]

I tried Minwax poly several years ago on flatwork and it seemed to have a very short "open" time. I had to be real quick or it would tack up on me before I was ready for it to.
Is it still that way, or do you notice it?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Minwax Gloss applied with a old T-shirt.

[Jim Sebring]

Minwax, mostly gloss, applied with 1/4 sheet of Viva paper towel. I learned to use Viva when applying CA to pens. This brand has no pattern, so doesn't leave any tracks behind. Throw the contaminated piece in the wood stove in the shop!

[Don Alexander]

i prefer the Minwax gloss and i use pieces of old cotton t-shirts if i have any otherwise i use a piece of shop towel put it on fairly heavy and wipe off the excess with a clean shop towel

[John Keeton]

I tried Minwax poly several years ago on flatwork and it seemed to have a very short "open" time. I had to be real quick or it would tack up on me before I was ready for it to.
Is it still that way, or do you notice it?Chris, I have not found that to be an issue. Perhaps what you used had been on the shelf awhile.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Chris - Minwax Gloss Poly. I use a 1" foam brush for the first coat and really saturate the piece, let sit for a couple of minutes to soak in and then wipe off the excess. If the wood really sucked in the finish - then I repeat the process. Once the initial coat is dry - then I apply very thin coats - kind of a French polish style - using folded up square of paper towel and build the finish to the level wanted for the particular piece.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I use either, satin or gloss. I buff anyways, so it may not matter. I use a cut section of those warehouse shop paper towels and toss it in the yard after too. Have not seen combustive properties, but I'm not taking chances.
So it is getting more expensive? I thought it was cheaper before too.

[Paul Singer]

Are you guys buying the wipe-on poly or making it yourself by cutting it with mineral spirits. And if you are cutting it what ratio are you using.

Thanks.

[John Keeton]

This is what I use -
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/6X1xv7sDfm4hmI3jVz0NCWfedEsnXSfkASHw4vatdtXkZcFIXf VntXg1-WhzV8-m-M6aGP4UUoOS1vnlYWc3zHf71wK7GZ-ABZQo3FP7h2PBZ2YYdRESVQqtwot80JTcBav47ybGEV6tTAtuK GCrgHKuQI2JnFLbkG3IsRpe1XDFE0O5zZJ795-SQ4uGoXwwcJ6Tw5PWu1fP9jiqAkVVPp8JW52q7kRt2phvzo9Al WSGJfVB1wxnxLG3u-DmasKmyasNWSue2h0YakM0nv3W-pwt3ZVRlqLKibVr50cl5JdM15gDXgr4IEg8HkkuLI99vA7FoE9 _rNnpzdtp5dAo2Es-u7oqW9NGmQ6-d2do3w

It may be cheaper to mix one's own, but to be honest, it just ain't worth my time! And, Minwax seems to have nailed the curing properties with the blend they use, so if it works, why bother. I am sure the homebrews work fine for those that do them.

On the issue of satin vs. gloss, the satin will always be somewhat less durable because of the silica included to dull the finish, and with multiple coats, it will not be as clear. Probably doesn't really matter on a turning with 2-3 coats, but that is why I normally use the gloss when it is going to be buffed to a sheen.

[Paul Williams]

Minwax gloss. I put it in a small squeese bottle to help prevent aging due to multiple opening of the can before it is used up. Very handy for adding a drop at a time to a paper towl for small turnings.

[Wally Dickerman]

Chris - Minwax Gloss Poly. I use a 1" foam brush for the first coat and really saturate the piece, let sit for a couple of minutes to soak in and then wipe off the excess. If the wood really sucked in the finish - then I repeat the process. Once the initial coat is dry - then I apply very thin coats - kind of a French polish style - using folded up square of paper towel and build the finish to the level wanted for the particular piece.

Steve, I've used the same method you do. I find that with the second coat applied immediately it takes 2 or 3 days to dry enough to apply a further coat. Has this been your experience? When applying light coats is dries quite fast.

Wally

[Steve Schlumpf]

Wally - I let the piece, once saturated, dry for 24 hours and then apply another heavy coat if needed. If it gets another heavy coat - then let that dry for 24 hours also. Once the base coat is dry I start applying the thin top coats and can usually apply a new coat every 2 to 3 hours.

With your lack of humidity and 'heat' I would imagine things would dry fairly fast!

[John Altberg]

Are you guys buying the wipe-on poly or making it yourself by cutting it with mineral spirits. And if you are cutting it what ratio are you using.

Thanks.

Our local waste to energy plant has a hazardous waste drop-off for home chemicals. Those deemed to be usable are available at no charge to the public for re-use. I have gotten numerous cans of varying sheens of poly and have made my own WOP, 50/50 poly & mineral spirits. I always buy a clean can for the new stuff.