finishing masonite bench top

[Andy Henriksen]

What product should I use to finish my new benches with masonite tops, and pine edging?

[Matt Meiser]

What product should I use to finish my new benches with masonite tops, and pine edging?

Whatever you use, be prepared to use a lot. Masonite will soak up an unbelievable amount of finish. I've only used non-tempered hardboard. In each case, the first few coats of finish almost completely "disappeared." One case was with poly and one with oil-base paint. I would assume that the finish wouldn't soak into tempered hardboard as bad.

I used BLO on my southern yellow pine bench and got great results.

[Jim Becker]

Paste wax on the hard board and BLO on the real wood. IMHO, of course.

[Norman Hitt]

You can use any finish you like, on them, and some like a final finish of varnish, but personally I like BLO and wax or varnish on the edging, but ONLY two or three coats of paste wax (Buffed in) for the tempered hardboard, because it is so easily renewable and doesn't look like it has Leprosy after it gets a few scratches.

[Ellen Benkin]

Finishing the hardboard? The reason I used hardboard is to have a surface I could beat up and easily replace. Why would I want to spend time finishing it?

[Rob Blaustein]

I am also thinking of using masonite/hardboard on top of a 3/4" plywood sheet that will then go on top of an old table and be edge banded with something like 1x3 poplar (for a combined work surface/outfield table). Is the masonite that most people use for work tops the same on both sides (so you can flip it)? I bought a piece from HD that is smooth only on one side and was wondering if there are different flavors of this stuff.
-Rob

[Steve Cox]

When I built my first bench with masonite I didn't finish it. When I built the second (another story) I sanded it and finished it with polyurethane. I like the poly in that I can sand and renew when it gets scratched, plus glue comes right off of it. The one downside is that it is slick! It's not a big deal when I'm using dogs and vises to hold everything but if I'm trying to sand or work a piece with hand pressure it has a tendency to slide. For sanding I use carpet pads which help and for everything else I clamp securely but it is a pain sometimes. The old top which was unfinished didn't have these drawbacks but it scratched easier and I didn't have a way to renew the surface. I don't think there is a perfect answer here so have at it and enjoy woodworking.

[Bert Johansen]

Try shellac. It is easily renewable, and easy to apply. I use the Zinser aerosol spray for this kind of job.

And yes, there are several varieties of hardboard. One kind is "finished" on one side only, the other is finished on both sides. Don't try to put a finish on the rough side! Glue that side to your base.

Bert