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Dahl Troy Perry
12-08-2010, 9:58 AM
Ok I screwed up I know this now. I used teak oil on not one but 8 pepper mills It will not dry it is still sticky after 3 days. What can I do can I re sand then to get the teak oil off or do I burn then and start over? I thought Iwas getting a head on this years christmas presents boy was I wrong.

Scott Hackler
12-08-2010, 10:05 AM
Others might chime in, but I would think wiping them down with something like acetone or lacquer thinner would "cut" the oil and wipe it off the surface. At least that is what I would have tried in the same situation, but lets see what the others say.

Tim Rinehart
12-08-2010, 10:09 AM
But you might want to see if there is a number on teak oil container, to call and ask them based on your application.

A quick search showed acetone as popular approach, but some mention also given to a stripper used for teak...so again, contacting manufacturer of the oil may be a good idea.

Obviously..regardless of which way you go, try on test piece first.

Good luck, sorry to hear about that.

John Keeton
12-08-2010, 10:12 AM
My thought is to use a citrus stripper - pretty mild stuff, and should work fairly well. Just make sure that you clean them off very well afterward to remove any stripper residue before applying another finish.

What kind of wood are the mills?

Dahl Troy Perry
12-08-2010, 10:39 AM
John. One set is myrtle wood the others are maple and walnut.

Kyle Iwamoto
12-08-2010, 11:06 AM
I have not worked with teak oil, but I've had that happen with BLO and Tung oil. It can take a few days or more to cure, especially if they are "pure" oils. The blends dry faster. Given where you are, it may be temperature. I've tried the acetone, it works, but it does leave a less than desireable finish, (some spots have dried finish and some don't) and it does affect the wood, and I had to sand, (and refinish) so perhaps waiting a couple more days and moving the mills into a heated area may help......

Josh Bowman
12-08-2010, 11:09 AM
How cold is your shop? You might bring them in to a warm area. I've had some luck with that. It does take a while though for the stuff to dry.

Dahl Troy Perry
12-08-2010, 11:28 AM
I did bring them in the house last night the shop I keep at 64 thinklng it might not be warm enough Ill give it some more time and see.

Art Kelly
12-08-2010, 12:50 PM
I've done it successfully a few times using low-odor mineral spirits. (It's never disappointed me.) After a quick dry-out in warm, well-ventilated area, you can re-oil (use less this time) or apply wipe-on poly. Keep it above 60 to cure.

I think acetone will remove too much of the natural things like lignin and leave a too-dull surface.

Art

David Drickhamer
12-08-2010, 1:05 PM
I've had this happen with gun stocks. What has worked for me in the past is to expose them to UV. Eventually it will cure.

Terry Beadle
12-08-2010, 3:03 PM
I used Japan Drier to fix a similar problem. I just added a Japan Drier to the BLO that was giveing me the problem. I mixed a small batch of 2/3rds Japan Drier and 1/3 BLO. Wiped the problem areas down lightly and they were set the next day. I left them alone for another day and then did final surface treatment.

You might give it a try on a test sample with your finish. Japan Drier will mix with most oil based finishes IMO.

Prashun Patel
12-08-2010, 3:06 PM
+1 for mineral spirits.
+1 for taking it inside and keeping it warm.

Dale Miner
12-08-2010, 5:32 PM
Wet steel wool (4/0) with mineral spirits to remove the gummy.

Recoat after a day or two with whatever. I do my mills with either; a mix of poly, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits; or spray can poly; or first a coat of the poly, BLO, MS mix, and then the spray can poly.

Bernie Weishapl
12-08-2010, 5:43 PM
I had the same thing happen to some lidded boxes and mills that I finished with Teak Oil. I had the same thing happen and I am pretty sure it is because my can of Teak oil finish was old. It was just gummy as all get out and would not dry no matter what I did. I did as Prashun did. I put some mineral spirits in a can and dipped steel wool in and cleaned it off. I sat them at a heat register till they felt good and dry then finished with rattle can lacquer. I had that finish sitting on the shelf for quite some time and decided I would use it up. Mistake on my part.

Dennis Simmons
12-08-2010, 7:20 PM
Ok I screwed up I know this now. I used teak oil on not one but 8 pepper mills It will not dry it is still sticky after 3 days. What can I do can I re sand then to get the teak oil off or do I burn then and start over? I thought Iwas getting a head on this years christmas presents boy was I wrong.

Wet them with mineral spirits heavy, and cover them with floor dry, let them set for a awhile!! Then rub them with floor dry, wipe them off and, sand if you wish.

Dahl Troy Perry
12-08-2010, 8:11 PM
I'm feeling better now I brought the pepper mills in from the shop before I went to work. Now that I got home tonight the mills were dry:D:D:D it must have been the heat in the shop set at 64 deg. and house at 71 dryed them. I have worried all day at work about these.I will sleep tonight. Thanks for the ideas to try if they had not dryed .