Raised panels on table saw

[Jim Dunn]

The drawer fronts I recently made on the table saw required quite a bit of scraping and sanding to get the saw marks out of them. (see post cherry wood this date) I was using a 40 tooth blade and took small cuts, 1/16 as a final pass using a pretty slow feed rate. I was concerned with burning the cherry as I understand that this is a problem with it. So I ran it through the blade with this in mind. Therefore I probably could have ran it through the blade a little slower.

Now my question is should I use my 80tooth blade for raising panels? Or just be satisfied I've figured out how to scrape and sand a decent finish?

Jim

[Mark Singer]

Jim,

A hand plane willtake those out...or sanding them. The 80tooth blade would not help much

[Jim Dunn]

Mark,

Their radiused by passing them over the blade diagonally with a fence. Are you talking about a plane with a radius blade? Or a french curve scraper in a plane body?

Jim

[Ted Shrader]

Jim -

Since you are making radiused (if that is a word) raised panels the grind on the blade will be a factor. Recommend a flat top grind used on ripping blades to minimize saw marks. <a href="http://www.freudtools.com/industrial/bits_blades/bits_blds.shtml"> Info here</a>. But once you have the hang of scraping and keeping the scrapers edge burnished, it should go pretty easily.

Or r r r . . . . . . How 'bout another tool? Router table or shaper with the appropriate bit. Gotta make the best use of these opportunities. :)

Regards,
Ted

[Rob Russell]

FYI, slowing down your feed rate will increase the tendency to get burn marks.

One of the functions the sawdust and chips serve, other than making a mess, is to carry heat away from the blade. If you slow down the feed rate, you're creating more heat via friction and producing less waste material to carry that heat away.