Tried some free hand inlay, could have went better.

[keith micinski]

Well I just wanted to try out this inlay since I had the time and bought an 8th inch bit but it didnt go so well. I watched the wood whisperer video on it and it looked so easy but I ended up making a few mistakes and over cut the hole I guess. I think I might try another small piece and see if I can do better. tapering the inset piece and making the hole a little small will work. I tried to make it to perfect the first time because as soon as I put it in it almost fit and knew that was trouble and I should have snuck up on it more.

[Andrew Gibson]

You know, I have done inlay with both an electric router and a router plane. I find that the router plane is easier and less stressful to use. I can be much ore precise with the plane. I take my piece of inlay and lay it over the piece to be routed, then mark around the inlay with a knife. Then just stay inside the lines.

that being said that looks like a decent first try, especially for an electric router job

[Bill Huber]

That looks not to bad to me, I just have not got the guts yet to try free hand but I want to at some point.

Just keep it up and you never know what you can do after awhile.

[John Coloccia]

FWIW, I use one of these:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_trim/Tools_for_cutting_binding_channels/Precision_Router_Bases/Precision_Router_Base.html

As well as their small inlay bits. You can get amazing precision from that little tool with a little practice. Way easier to control than a router, and better visibility IMHO.

[keith micinski]

In hindsight I wish I would have done it farther in from the edge and then what I could have done was inlay another piece next to it to cover up my mistake. That is of course hoping I can get the next piece right. I hate to say this but I think my problem was in marking it with the knife. I really did stay in side the lines with the router so I guess I will just have to be more careful marking it out.

[keith micinski]

I have a large clear base for my router and to be honest with you I think the larger base gave me a much more stable platform to use. The 8th inch bit was pretty nice to. I saw that Mark Spagnolo double stick taped his template down when he marked it out and I got lazy and didn't do this. The next time i will and I hope it makes it easier to outline it with the knife.

[Steve knight]

you fill the gaps with colored epoxy and call it art.

[Jim Rimmer]

I've watched Marc's video several times and he does make it look easy. I have practiced on several pieces of scrap wood around the shop - usually pine pieces I have salvagd from pallets and pieces of walnut or mahogany off cuts. I just got the DeWalt 611 with the plunge base so I will be practicing with it. Bill Huber has a post about it and some pics of an inlay he did with it. I am anxious to give it a try and after a few practice runs will try it on a real project.

[Larry Fox]

FWIW, I use one of these:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_trim/Tools_for_cutting_binding_channels/Precision_Router_Bases/Precision_Router_Base.html

As well as their small inlay bits. You can get amazing precision from that little tool with a little practice. Way easier to control than a router, and better visibility IMHO.

+1 on this.

Question for you though John. Have you had any trouble with the Dremel vibrating the adjustment screw loose and finding that your depth has changed? Happens with mine sometimes and it is very frustrating and I have not figured out a good way to stop it.

[Bill Huber]

Dremel also makes a plunge base for the Dremel tools,

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=335-01


169653

[John Coloccia]

+1 on this.

Question for you though John. Have you had any trouble with the Dremel vibrating the adjustment screw loose and finding that your depth has changed? Happens with mine sometimes and it is very frustrating and I have not figured out a good way to stop it.

Yes, I've had that problem. Stupid me was locking with the top nuts instead of the large, knurled nuts on the bottom. Now, I adjust everything how I like it, and lock it down firmly with the bottom knobs. I haven't really had much trouble since. Now, where I still occasionally have trouble is the bit vibrating loose in the dremel and the height changing a little like that. I think this is more a matter of my old dremel than it is the StewMac jig. It's insidious, though. I use a wrench to tighten the bits, now, just like the old days, and that problem has since vanished as well.

If you have an older one of these (I have a newer one), they make an upgraded holder that incorporates a little nipple for a blower to keep your view completely dust free. It works very well.

[Van Huskey]

Sure it could have gone better, but that is pretty dog gone good for a first try freehand!

[Larry Fox]

Yes, I've had that problem. Stupid me was locking with the top nuts instead of the large, knurled nuts on the bottom. Now, I adjust everything how I like it, and lock it down firmly with the bottom knobs. I haven't really had much trouble since. Now, where I still occasionally have trouble is the bit vibrating loose in the dremel and the height changing a little like that. I think this is more a matter of my old dremel than it is the StewMac jig. It's insidious, though. I use a wrench to tighten the bits, now, just like the old days, and that problem has since vanished as well.

If you have an older one of these (I have a newer one), they make an upgraded holder that incorporates a little nipple for a blower to keep your view completely dust free. It works very well.


Thanks John - I will have to pay attention next time I use it but I thought I was tightening with the bottom ones but now I am not 100% sure. I have the newer one with the little nipple on it but really didn't find all that useful - maybe it is that the little pump that came with it was a little underpowered.

BTW: apologies to op for partially hijacking his thread.