Attaching a False Drawer Front Under Sink

[Kyle Kaldor]

What is the best way to attach a false drawer front that goes underneath the sink area?

The sink and countertop are already installed so I don't have much room or access to get behind the false drawer front. I would preferably like to attach it from behind somehow, but I can't think of a good way.

Any ideas other than shooting brads through it?

[Trent Shirley]

I have seen them attached with a piece of wood or metal screwed to the back of the false front and then overlaps the frame. If positioned correctly it will hold it in place without moving or can be screwed to the frame as well to keep it from moving.

[Karl Brogger]

Hmm, tough to do with the sink and countertop in.

I usually staple a piece of 1/4 plywood to the back of the faceframe at the top, and just allow it to hang at the bottom. Run a couple of 1-1/2" screws through the 1/4" into the false front on both sides and call it good.

[Todd Crawford]

I like the tilt out trays. Easy to install.

http://shop.merillat.com/merillat/sink-tray.asp

[Gene Waara]

I have seen them attached with a piece of wood or metal screwed to the back of the false front and then overlaps the frame. If positioned correctly it will hold it in place without moving or can be screwed to the frame as well to keep it from moving.

I have done it this way. To (hopefully) clarify, cut two pieces of wood a couple of inches wide and a couple of inches longer than the width of the false front. Put one screw through the middle of each piece into the back of the false front. They should be screwed in only far enough so they can turn freely and will fit behind the cabinet rail when turned 90 degrees. With the false front in place, reach behind the cabinet front and turn the pieces to become a "lock" against the back of the cabinet rail. You will have to tighten or loosen the screw a couple of times to get the proper friction to hold the false front in place. (I hope this makes sense).

[Kyle Kaldor]

I have done it this way. To (hopefully) clarify, cut two pieces of wood a couple of inches wide and a couple of inches longer than the width of the false front. Put one screw through the middle of each piece into the back of the false front. They should be screwed in only far enough so they can turn freely and will fit behind the cabinet rail when turned 90 degrees. With the false front in place, reach behind the cabinet front and turn the pieces to become a "lock" against the back of the cabinet rail. You will have to tighten or loosen the screw a couple of times to get the proper friction to hold the false front in place. (I hope this makes sense).


Gene, I like your idea. I think I'm going to have to try that. Thanks!

[Van Huskey]

Gene, I like your idea. I think I'm going to have to try that. Thanks!


Trent and Gene's way is indeed the way I have seen it and done it.

[Brian Vaughn]

Gene's is the same way I've done it. Just don't forget a spacer or a cutout for the thickness of the face frame. Not admitting anything, just some friendly advice :rolleyes:

[george wilson]

Kind of like having a window under a false chimney,isn't it?

[Joseph Tarantino]

to tighten or loosen the clamping cleat referenced above, i've used a driver like this:

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000311.php

takes a little time and patience, but works quite well.

[Josiah Bartlett]

Table top clips or sink clips work pretty well too, if you don't have room for a wooden cleat.

[Fred Belknap]

I replaced mine and it was held on with two metal crescent shaped clips. There is a hole in the middle and it is screwed to the middle of the board. When it is in place just turn the clips and they catch the top and bottom . I don't know where or if you can buy them.

[David Laaneorg]

There are a number of options, like those already mentioned. There are also plastic clips available, where a post is attached to the back of the false front at the exact width of the opening at each end. Then a recepticle is screwed to the sides of the cabinet just behind the opening. The false front will simply push into the clips and snap into place. For overlay, the clips sit flush to the front of the cabinet, for face framed cabinets, the clips sit flush to the back of the face frame. There are many different companies making these, in a variety of styles. Your local home center should have them

[Matt Meiser]

I had enough overlay to just run screws through the FF into the false drawer front. I added some spacers too to match the space the hinges and bumper pads added on all the doors and drawers,otherwise it lookded funny sitting 1/8" further back then the doors underneath.

[David Prince]

You may have one or two openings to fill. Say each of the drawer openings is 6 inches x 12 inches. Cut two 6 inch long pieces x 2 inches for each opening. Use pocket hole screws to fasten this filler board into the sides of the face frame opening on the left and right sides. It can be screwed in from the front. Put some construction adhesive on the filler boards and clamp your drawer front on. Then, from the back with a right angle drill with a screw driver bit attached you might have enough room to put a couple of screws into it.

Another option is to use a 6 x 12 inch board as a filler for each opening and pocket hole screw it into the face frame hole and fill the entire void. Use contruction adhesive and glue the drawer front on and clamp it. Then, attach a drawer pull to the drawer front to match your existing drawers. The screws should go all the way through the drawer front and filler board and could be tightened with and offset screw driver. The pull is just for looks and doesn't open anything, but the screws and adhesive will hold it tight.

[Bill Edwards(2)]

Tenn-Tex False Front Clip