moisture problems and "creeping up" to final dimension

[David Wadstrup]

I'll soon be bringing 300bf of 8/4 and 4/4 Hard Maple into my shop/home. It's been air drying outdoors for about 12 years. It's winter here in New York and the forced air heat is bringing the Relative Humidity way down inside. It's going to be a big shock for the wood, and I'm wondering what I should do to minimize potential problems. Should I wrap it? How long do you think it will take to acclimate?

Also(I'm new to woodworking,) I've heard that it's important to "creep up" on final dimensions. How does one go about this? For instance, I'll be taking the 8/4 down to 1.75" with hand planes. Should I not do it all at once? And I will be ripping 16" wide boards into 4.5" strips. How do I handle this?

I know I'm asking for a book's worth of info. here. I've looked at Understanding Wood, though, and was overwhelmed with its depth. Is there any advice you could offer?

Thanks very, very much,

David Wadstrup

[David Weaver]

If it's been air drying (and presumably covered on top) for 12 years, it should be OK when you bring it in, but you can make sure by letting it acclimate for a while. If you're worried about problems, the biggest would probably be ends checking, or if they're already checked, the checks and cracks at the ends moving further in. You could wax the ends.

Dimension the wood as your project progresses once you start. Don't dimension it all at once, but dimension it as you use it.

I don't know what creeping up to a mark means, unless someone means to not go all the way to a mark with a jack plane and then still end up needing to smooth, because you'll go past the mark.

Dimensioning hard maple by hand can be a bear. Sometimes it's cooperative, and sometimes not. You'll get a workout with it!

[Johnny Kleso]

I always stack and sticker my project wood at the end of the day..

If you are gluing boards up the glue adds moisture and may cause joints to swell for a week or two so let glue ups dry well before surface planing..