A Great Set of Chisels.

[Rick Fisher]

Hello..

I am looking for a lifetime set of Bench Chisels. Something which could be considered splurging..

After much reading, I found out that I cannot afford Damascus steel Japanese Chisels.. lol.

I am looking at;

The Blue Spruce 5 piece bench chisel set. http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/blue_spruce_chisels.htm

Lie Nielsen Bench Chisels http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=O-1-C

The Premium Japanese Chisels from Lee Valley.. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=57651&cat=1,41504


Funny, the Lie Nielsen are actually the cheapest.. Anyone have any good advice on these ?

If you where receiving these as a gift, which would be the best choice ?

[Jack Camillo]

Hands down: Lie Nielsen. The simplest, time proven design with the highest quality materials that will last probably several lifetimes. No ferrules to deal with, and if a handle ever broke (which would be extremely difficult), you could wittle a new one if necessary.

[John Keeton]

No doubt, the LN chisels are superb. I own Blue Spruce and love them. Not only is the quality and "feel" superb - I just prefer them to socket handle chisels. I know there are methods used to secure the handles, but I don't like the idea of the handles shrinking and expanding in the sockets.

That said, there are legions of folks well satisfied with the LNs. I doubt you go wrong with either of the first two.

Lee Valley sells quality products, but I don't know anything about the Japanese chisels. However, there seems to be a definite difference in the feel and use of western chisels vs. Japanese, so that may be a factor to consider.

[Tommy Squires]

John's got it right. You can't go wrong with these choices. That said, I always get a big smile on my face when I use my Blue Spruce chisels. Order with some special wood or finish and make them uniquely yours. Good luck.

[David Weaver]

Of all that have been mentioned, I would go with the LN chisels and with O1 steel.

There are "lifetime" quality chisels (unless you manage to use them so much you hone them away to nothing) for much less than any of those. However, I can't find anything wrong with wanting to buy anything in the price range of the tools you're showing, they're not that expensive.

Also, the japanese chisels you show are dovetail chisels. If you want a set of bench chisels, you should get chisels that are described bench chisels or cabinet-maker's chisels, as they won't be quite so delicate.

The pictures you show are miyanaga chisels, and all of those that I've seen are excellently done. However, I don't think they are any better in function than a set from koyama-ichi, which would be less expensive. If you can't find anything on this side of the ocean from koyama-ichi that you want, Stuart Tierney retails them from japan and you can specify exactly what you want. I got the less decorative koyama-ichi dovetail chisels from Lee Valley, they are excellent (really excellent), but not hard pounding and levering chisels.

[Andrew Gibson]

The Blue spruce chisels look like works of art, that being said it is the LN a2 chisels that I have been lusting after for a wile now. I say get the LN then take the rest of the money you would have spent on say the the Japanese chisels and get a set for skew chisels, or fish tail chisels, or mortise chisels.

[Casey Gooding]

Any of these chisels should last several lifetimes and won't disappoint. I personally own and use the Lie-Nielsen chisels and am very satisfied. The Blue Spruce chisels are beautiful, and I have plans for adding some to my set in the future. I have tried various Japanese chisels, and while they are of excellent quality, they just don't fit very well with the way I work.

[Jonathan McCullough]

A less expensive option with absolutely no compromise in quality would be the Ashley Iles Mk II bench chisels from either Tools for Working Wood or The Best Things. Like the LNs you can get right into dovetail corners with them, but also use them for general bench use. The O-1 steel is very good too. I have the dovetail chisels and the butt chisels. As a personal preference, I'd suggest O-1 versus A-2, especially for paring.

[Benjamin Heuer]

I agree with Andrew and Casey in that the Blue Spruce chisels at pretty. I'd be afraid to use them after spending so much money on them.:)

[Chris Fournier]

I would look to the Japan Woodworker for Japanese chisels before I went to Lee Valley as they have a huge selection and this is their specialty after all.

I would go with a Western style chisel before a Japanese chisel 9.99 times out of 10 and I say this having both styles in my shop.

[Rick Markham]

The Blue spruce chisels look like works of art, that being said it is the LN a2 chisels that I have been lusting after for a wile now. I say get the LN then take the rest of the money you would have spent on say the the Japanese chisels and get a set for skew chisels, or fish tail chisels, or mortise chisels.

I second this, my LN A2's have been nothing but a pleasure to use, Like David said O1 in theory is the better choice, but I honestly haven't had ANY issues with my A2's so I can't complain. I'm with Andrew in the difference in price some specialty chisels might make the LN's irresistable ;)

[Jonathan McCullough]

Let me qualify that O-1 thing. Most of my chisels were beveled at 25º-30º, but then I got some hoidy toidy carving gouges, and the bevel angles were 20º-23º, and for paring the difference between 20º and 30º is huge. Below 20º O-1 starts to break down but the same is true of A-2 at 30º, in my experience. A-2 just seems like a better steel for plane blades. A lot of people love their A-2 LNs though.

For paring chisels I'd suggest as long as possible and as small a bevel as possible. That suggests O-1 with a tanged, possibly cranked handle. For dovetails, I like the Ashley Iles butt chisels; they're short so they're not so unwieldy when you're using a mallet, and the beveled edges come right down to the back. For smaller mortises the Narex mortise chisels are a good bet, the Ray Iles or Lie-Nielsens would be dee-luxe, for bigger stuff (1/2") a nice older shipwright's chisel is good--much beyond that you might be better off drilling your mortises. For general bench use, maybe two or three Japanese chisels would be good. I *think* Wilbur Pan suggested he liked Matsumura Blue steel chisels best, a little googling might be in order to find out. I haven't used those but I'll bet they're really good.

The all-around best do-everything chisels though, I think, would be the Ashley Iles bench chisels. You could pare with them, you could do dovetails with them, and with care you could do mortises with them. Nobody's mentioned the Pfeils yet--some people really like those too.

[george wilson]

I have a set of Pfeils that I like,except for the ugly handles.

[Chris Fournier]

They're ugly George but they do seem to feel good in the hand despite their very un-ergonomic appearance. I never would have guessed it. The steel is great.

[John Coloccia]

I have a set of Pfeils that I like,except for the ugly handles.


They're ugly George but they do seem to feel good in the hand despite their very un-ergonomic appearance. I never would have guessed it. The steel is great.

I'm also a pfan and have several.

[Tony Shea]

I have a set of Pfeils that I like,except for the ugly handles.


Yes they are certainly ugly as far as their handles are concerned and is a big reason I passed on them. It's too bad though that they could have been the best chisel out there in terms of their steel quality and design and I still would have passed on them due to their handle shape. Looks don't make the tool work better but may help me work with them better if I enjoy their appearance.

I must agree that my LN's are my absolute favorite set of chisels I have floating around. They've served me very well and will for my lifetime. That's not to say that I wont be trying other brands out in the future as I have a bit of a chisel addiction.

[Frank Drew]

I would look to the Japan Woodworker for Japanese chisels before I went to Lee Valley as they have a huge selection and this is their specialty after all.

hidatool.com is another source.


I would go with a Western style chisel before a Japanese chisel 9.99 times out of 10 and I say this having both styles in my shop.

Just from what I've owned and used, I'm just the opposite, but I haven't kept up with all the latest hand tools, from anywhere.

[Jim Koepke]

Sometimes my mind wonders and ponders if there were more money available for tool acquisition, would there be less chisels in my shop.

My preference is for socket chisels. For me, it is much easier to make a handle. Until recently, there was never a problem with handles getting loose due to changes of weather. Easy fix, just whack it back in with a mallet. It has changed my method of picking up chisels to avoid surprises.

My tang handled chisels do work just as well, but I still have much to learn about making handles for tanged chisels.

So many choices toward what may be the "best" chisels are really personal opinions once you find quality steel.

It is also my opinion that the quality of work performed is more dependent on the user than the tool. That said, the feel and appeal of a tool may influence the user to do better. An ill fitting handle with splinters puts me in a different state of mind than a handle that fits my hand and feels good to use.

My opinion would be that you will not go wrong with any of the choices you have listed.

My choice would be the LN set. I would also include the 5/8" size. This comes in handy when making tight 3/4" stopped dados. A 3/4" chisel can chip the edges of the dado.

jtk

[Thomas Kila]

I am fortunate enough to have a set of LN bench chisels and Blue Spruce bench chisels. And although I love them both, I find myself reaching for the Blue Spruce chisels about 75% of the time. (I'm not sure why that is.) But as far as paring, I am extremely happy with my Blue Spruce set.

As everyone here seems to agree, I don't think one could go wrong with either. I have no experience with Japanese chisels. (And cannot afford to even think about taking a ride down THAT slippery slope...)

[Robert Culver]

I have A set of Asley Isles mkII's and I reallllly like them a lot they hold an edge well and I do almost everythig with them. I have also the veritis detail chisles they are my go to chisles for detail work. I really would love a set of blue spruce but im saving for a few other things right now..... If I ever get some extra $ I will for sure give blue spruce a shot in some of my most comman used ones to see how they compare. I have heard though that steel wise top chisles are pretty simalar I can tend to agree with that some what some will hold an edge longer than othrs though . but I like mine razor sharp they never go back in the drawer without hitting the strop.

[bob blakeborough]

I have the Blue Spruce Bench Chisels and love them! I cannot tell a lie however... I don't really have a lot of experience with the other chisel brands to make a fair comparison as I went for Dave Jeske's offerings right out of the gate. I can definitely say I have no regrets whatsoever, and everytime I use them I find they feel amazing in the hand and do the job I need. That and they are a mighty beautiful tool that I know will become an heirloom for someone else many years down the road!

[Mike Henderson]

I have a "set" of LN and a few Blue Spruce. They're about the same but the LN are a bit less expensive. I'd go with the LN.

Mike

[Rick Fisher]

Thanks so much for the responses. All the responses make total sense.

I sent an email to " thebestthings" to see if they have inventory of the Blue Spruce.. They are just so darn attractive..

[Joe Mioux]

pfeil phan also.

and ditto on the handles... the look goofy but are very comfortable.

[Pam Niedermayer]

I'd get over a perceived need for bench chisels as well as a need to buy a set of them. I found out the hard way, after buying a set of Japanese bench chisels, that after I bought the specialty chisels I needed, I no longer need the bench chisels at all. Same with a set, bought the individual chisels and was very happy. This approach allowed me to afford using the best chisels (I have a lot of western chisels, too) without breaking my bank account.

Pam

[Russell Sansom]

Your lifetime set needs some qualification. There's a broader range than might be apparent at first. And you almost have to have a chopping set and a paring set as a minimum. I couldn't possibly cover the variety of work I do with only one set.

The beautiful Blue Spruce's are so delicate they flex. They feel great and I look for every opportunity to use them. At the other end of the spectrum are the Barr "cabinet maker's" chisels, which should be on your list of the absolutely best chisels available. They are bulky, heavy, and hand-forged. While this might not sound attractive, they are just wonderful to use on the right job and I've fallen in love with them. However, their side thickness makes them impossible to use on small dovetails.

For making a jewelry box, the Blue Spruce's are perfect and the Barr's couldn't possibly do the job. For chopping out mortises and big dovetails in the hardest maple, the Barrs are spectacular. Between these extremes are the Lie-Nielsens along with a few other CNC-made, modern metallurgy chisels. The steels have their personalities, but except for the Barrs they are similar.
If I had to pick a set out of the serious candidates, I'd base my decision on 1) feel, 2) appropriateness to the work I do, and 3) reputed fit and finish out of the box. To do this properly I'd buy one of each brand and incorporate them into my shop ( you can always use a couple spare chisels later to supplement your lifetime set).

[Joseph Klosek]

I have been using my set of Barr chisels fort about 10 years now.

I cut the little nub off the end because it hurts to pare with it.

The steel is very good and they are handsome(to me)as well.

Certainly not the cheapest, but worth the money.

J.P.

http://barrtools.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BT&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CMCS

[Stuart Tierney]

Just quickly, since I am very pressed for time right now.

The Premium DT chisels at LV, the Miyanaga are, in my opinion spectacular. Insert whatever additional adjective you want in there, it's still not enough.

The steel looks like aged cypress, very defined, and I can't say I've seen better from an aesthetic viewpoint.

(And I've seen a 'full' Japanese chisel set that sold for $20,000. In the flesh, and even picked a few of them up, with the blessing of the old fellow who made them.)

But you are comparing apples with grapes. The LV chisels are detail chisels and lightly built. The LN and BS are more solidly built for everyday hitting and whacking.

Just my point of view, from someone who (at a rough guess) has seen more Japanese chisels than anyone else here.

(And believe me, there are 'Japanese chisels' and Japanese chisels. Simply being made in Japan doesn't mandate that they are actually all they are cracked up to be... )

[george wilson]

I am making different handles for my Pfiels if you recall the pictures I posted. I can't decide now which shape I prefer,after having turned out a set of London pattern octagonal handles.

The Pfiels also might not have their bevels ground thin enough to their edges to suit some. No problem for me,I'll just grind the bevels down thinner If I want them thinner. The Pfiels scored excellent in the 2ND. Chisel test that Fine Woodworking did some years back. The Japanese scored best in both tests,but I prefer Western style chisels.

[David Keller NC]

Thanks so much for the responses. All the responses make total sense.

I sent an email to " thebestthings" to see if they have inventory of the Blue Spruce.. They are just so darn attractive..

One comment, rick - If you decide to go with the Blue Spruce chisels, be aware that the BS chisels on the page from the Best Things that you linked to come in 3 different varieties (David Jeske actually makes 5 or 6 different types): short dovetail paring chisels, long dovetail paring chisels, and the newer, acrylic-infused maple-handled "bench" dovetail chisels.

The BS paring chisels that have the cocobolo handles (or african blackwood, or any other wood that you supply) aren't meant for mallet work - just paring. I've a set of the long paring chisels; they are superb tools and hold an edge better than any other edge tool I've ever used. That said, I wouldn't want to stike them with a mallet. The B.S. bench chisels with a different tang & ferrule design and an acrylic-infused handle are meant to be struck with a mallet. I don't have a set of these, but I've seen demonstrations where they ar pounded with a steel hammer with no apparent damage. I would never advise someone to strike any edge tool with a steel hammer, but it's a safe bet that if they'll stand up to that sort of abuse, you're unlikely to mess them up with a carpenter's or carver's mallet.

[Jeff Schmidt]

Pam,

What individual Japanese chisels have you ended up with and for what functions?

[Pam Niedermayer]

I am making different handles for my Pfiels if you recall the pictures I posted. I can't decide now which shape I prefer,after having turned out a set of London pattern octagonal handles.

The Pfiels also might not have their bevels ground thin enough to their edges to suit some. No problem for me,I'll just grind the bevels down thinner If I want them thinner. The Pfiels scored excellent in the 2ND. Chisel test that Fine Woodworking did some years back. The Japanese scored best in both tests,but I prefer Western style chisels.

I've had zero problems with the Pfeil handles. I only have 6 or 7 of them, all with the same original handle.

I hope what you're saying in an oblique manner is that the Pfeils aren't sharp enough; otherwise I have no idea what you mean by thin enough bevels. My Pfeils are very sharp, no problems in that area either.

As to FWW's chisel tests, I wouldn't spend a penny on the Japanese chisels they used for testing, pure junk, inferior, mediocre, blah, blah,....

Pam

[Jim Koepke]

otherwise I have no idea what you mean by thin enough bevels.

I think George is referring to the side bevels.


The Pfiels also might not have their bevels ground thin enough to their edges

My Buck and Swan chisels have the thin edges for paring in tight quarters.

Witherby chisels seem to have a lot of side before it starts to slop. Not as good for dovetail work.

Hello, I'm Jim and I'm a chiselaholic…

jtk

[Stuart Tierney]

As to FWW's chisel tests, I wouldn't spend a penny on the Japanese chisels they used for testing, pure junk, inferior, mediocre, blah, blah,....

Pam


Thanks for putting so eloquently what I couldn't bring myself to come out and say outright.

Muchly appreciated. ;)

[Rick Fisher]

I pretty much decided to get a set of the Blue Spruce Bench Chisels. I emailed " the best things " and they have them in stock. Looking at the site, I may add a couple of things, cant decide.

The chisels I picked have the infused acrylic handles.

I would post a link, but its a retail selling link, not sure its allowed.