Ladder safety tips from the pros?

[Dan Karachio]

Along with having a shop for fun, I am using my tools and new skills to work on the house. I'm not afraid of heights, but I could see myself getting into trouble and/or at least learning by mistake. I need to do some work on windows, fascia and trim, some being about 16-18 feet high. I'm shopping for a nice 24' extension ladder. Any tips or advice from those used to working on a ladder?

[Chuck Wintle]

[QUOTE=Dan Karachio;1575076]Along with having a shop for fun, I am using my tools and new skills to work on the house. I'm not afraid of heights, but I could see myself getting into trouble and/or at least learning by mistake. I need to do some work on windows, fascia and trim, some being about 16-18 feet high. I'm shopping for a nice 24' extension ladder. Any tips or advice from those used to working on a ladder?[/QUOTE

Buy the ladder attachment that will allow you to place the ladder right in front of a window. makes it easy to replace window panes.

While on the ladder do not over reach either to the left or right. This is a good way to fall off.

And make sure the angle of the ladder to the building is not too acute. The bottom of the ladder must be so many feet from the exterior wall.

[Karl Brogger]

Don't buy cheap ladders. Good ones are more rigid and stable.

[David G Baker]

I pay the extra bucks and get fiberglass ladders that are weight rated for 350 pounds. I weigh around 215 and sometimes carry heavy items up the ladder. I feel that 250 pound rate is pushing the weight limit. I have friends that help me on jobs on occasion that weigh between 300-350 so I error on the safe side.
You can also get wings that mount on the upper portion of the ladder that help prevent marking wall surfaces and help prevent ladder tipping. The same wing can be added at the ladder base to prevent tipping.
Store your ladders indoors and they will last longer plus look much better if you sell them,

[Larry Harden]

In regards to the proper angle of a ladder. Stand on ground facing ladder, with toes against the legs of ladder reach out at shoulder level, your fingertips should just touch the rung at that level.

[Dan Karachio]

Thanks everyone. I was looking at a 300 lb rated fiberglass ladder.

[Jim Koepke]

My understanding of safe ladder use is that the ladder should be 1/4 the height away from the point it is leaning against. If there is an attachment to the ladder that holds it away from the wall, the height should be considered as the point where the ladder is touching the attachment.

Search > ladder safety < and you will find things like this:

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jtk

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I'll admit I have fallen for 1 tv infomercial and I don't regret it. Neither does one of my neighbors and my oldest son. I saw an tv infomercial for "Little Giant" ladders. I didn't buy the one you see in the infomercial. I bought a heavier grade, 1AA, longer model. I am 6'2" 270 lbs. I require the heavier grade model.

The flared base at the top and the bottom make that ladder so much more stable than the normal extension ladder. I have a 24' extension ladder that hasn't been used since I bought the Little Giant ladder. There is no comparison in the stability between the flared base and top and the regular type extension ladder.

Little Giant's website advertises designed, engineered and assembled in the USA.

They aren't cheap but they are good.

[Chuck Wintle]

I'll admit I have fallen for 1 tv infomercial and I don't regret it. Neither does one of my neighbors and my oldest son. I saw an tv infomercial for "Little Giant" ladders. I didn't buy the one you see in the infomercial. I bought a heavier grade, 1AA, longer model. I am 6'2" 270 lbs. I require the heavier grade model.

The flared base at the top and the bottom make that ladder so much more stable than the normal extension ladder. I have a 24' extension ladder that hasn't been used since I bought the Little Giant ladder. There is no comparison in the stability between the flared base and top and the regular type extension ladder.

Little Giant's website advertises designed, engineered and assembled in the USA.

They aren't cheap but they are good.

You're right...they are not cheap. They look very solid though. :D

[Jim Rimmer]

I'm the Region Safety Manager for our company and in addition to the advice you have aready received about lean angle and over-reaching, I would add:
1. Tie the ladder off at the top to keep it from sliding laterally.
2. Ladder shoud extend 3' above the landing surface (see diagram in earlier post)
3. Make sure the feet are on level, stable ground and not on a surface that will aloow them to slip.
4. Don't climb the ladder with tools in your hands; pull them up with a rope.
5. Don't ascend or descend backwards on the ladder.
6. Keep the area under the ladder clear (in case you do fall) and keep other folks away from the area under or near the ladder.

Good luck and work safely. I tell my folks "If it doesn't feel right, don't do it."

[Don Alexander]

don't descend backwards? its safer to have your back to the ladder?

somehow i doubt that but maybe i am not understanding what is meant by that

[Caspar Hauser]

don't descend backwards? its safer to have your back to the ladder?

somehow i doubt that but maybe i am not understanding what is meant by that

To ascend or descend a ladder with your back to the ladder is to ascend or descend backwards. Do not do this.

[Harlan Coverdale]

+1 on the Little Giant ladders. I own one of the lighter weight models and it's fine for me at about 180 pounds as long as I'm not also lifting something heavier than a can of paint with me. Being lightweight also makes it easier to move around and load in the truck. I've also used the heavier models, and they are indeed more beefy, and better suited to hold heavier people or people with heavier loads. I also have one of the ones that folds up into a "W" shape. It's stout, but heavy and difficult to lean against a wall when it's extended to its full 16' length.

[Jason Roehl]

I'm the Region Safety Manager for our company and in addition to the advice you have aready received about lean angle and over-reaching, I would add:
1. Tie the ladder off at the top to keep it from sliding laterally.
2. Ladder shoud extend 3' above the landing surface (see diagram in earlier post)
3. Make sure the feet are on level, stable ground and not on a surface that will aloow them to slip.
4. Don't climb the ladder with tools in your hands; pull them up with a rope.
5. Don't ascend or descend backwards on the ladder.
6. Keep the area under the ladder clear (in case you do fall) and keep other folks away from the area under or near the ladder.

Good luck and work safely. I tell my folks "If it doesn't feel right, don't do it."

I don't know where OSHA got #2, but I disagree vehemently with that one. If the ladder is only about a foot over the platform surface (roofs for me, usually), I can step OVER the top rung of the ladder. If it's 3 feet over, I have to go around the ladder, which means I'm stepping out over thin air, and putting my center of gravity outside the rails of the ladder--a recipe for disaster. That's how ladders tip to the side.

Here are some more tips:

Climb with your legs--grip the back side of the rails of the ladder, don't grab the rungs. This way you can keep your hand(s) on the ladder at all times while climbing and aren't tempted to use your arms to climb.

The point about the correct angle is that 1/4 the height for the base to be away or 75º are both correct, but require either inconvenient measurement, or inaccurate eyeballing. Use the standard of the ladder should lean an arms length away from you at shoulder level with your toes at the base.

If there's any slope to the ground, drive a stake into the ground behind the bottom rung or both feet.

Stabilizers are an excellent attachment. The flare of the Little Giant is great (I have the 8'/17', and it's the ladder I use most), but I find that the larger Little Giant ladders are very cumbersome to use compared to an extension ladder with a stabilizer. Get the stabilizer that is 2"-ish square aluminum tubing and attached with u-bolts, not the cheap round-tube/quick-release style.

If you don't plan on working near power lines, skip the fiberglass ladder. It won't last as long as an aluminum extension ladder (the fiberglass degrades and shatters when it does fail), and (the fiberglass ladder) is much, much heavier.

Also, don't get a ladder with round rungs--your feet will thank you. They will also thank you if you wear thick-soled boots while on the ladder.

When you stand on the ladder, keep your feet as far apart on the same rung as you can (left foot touching left rail, right foot touching right rail), and no matter how far you reach, keep your hips and legs between the rails. Do that, and you won't over-reach.

I'm sure I'll think of more later, but after 15 years on ladders, I do most of it by habit now and don't think about it much.

[Jim Rimmer]

don't descend backwards? its safer to have your back to the ladder?

somehow i doubt that but maybe i am not understanding what is meant by that
Sorry, maybe that was confusing. What I meant was don't descend with your back to the ladder. Seems like common sense but i've seeen a lot of people do it and they are just asking to go off face first.

[Dave Lehnert]

Don't let this happen to you. Got to love live TV.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4q_TFno3nM

The only thing I will add. If looking for a ladder I found the best deal on-line at Sears. I ordered on-line, picked up in store. Got my ladder about $50 cheaper than the big box hardware stores.

[John Shuk]

Three points of contact at all times. Two feet one hand or two hands when only one foot is on the rung. That is how I was trained in Working Aloft when I started with the phone company and it has served me well. Don't over reach to the side and don't leave yourself in a position to be pulled backward from the ladder. A proper ladder foot and tying the ladder into the triangle help alot with stability and confidence.

[Jim Finn]

I have worked on extension ladders for over 40 years. Started with wood in the 50's (with flared bottom) then to fiberglass. I would not recommend alum ladders. They conduct elect too easily. Other than that, I agree with Jason's thoughts.

[Eric John]

Well I'm a little late to the party, but theres a lot of good tips here.

I'd like to add a tip that helped me many times, "set" your ladder. in that ,I mean when you place your ladder against the building or roof edge, and especially if you set it on the rake of the house. hold your feet against the bottom of the ladder , and wit hyour hands pull the ladder a bit towards you and gently bounce it against the house. If a ladder isnt square to the house it will slide left or right (thatll be a bad thing).Then reset the feet and try again, If it stays put and centered you can get on it without a ride.
Worked for me a long time when I worked on ladders.

Eric

[Dan Karachio]

Thanks everyone, this is fantastic advice, all of it!