Do you use ts blade guard?

[everett lowell]

I was wondering how many of you guys use tablesaw blade guards on a regular basis?I used to have a small tabletop saw and abuot four years ago got a 10'' contracters saw,and never took the blade guard out of the bag! Am i being foolish? Im so used to working without a guard or splitter i hate the thought of putting them on.:(

[Dick Parr]

I have removed the guard with the intent of adding an overarm guard that hasn't happened yet. :rolleyes: But the first thing I did after removing the guard was to add a splitter with kick-back cawls. :D Unless I am using a sled, the splitter is on.

[Gord Graff]

Hello Everett,

The guard I can generally live without, proper blade height when cutting wood usually restricts the amount of exposed blade that can get you into trouble. I will say this, since using the Excalibur blade guard I find it somewhat more comforting knowing that the blade is covered.

I won’t do without a splitter though, no doubt the best safety device used on a table saw today except for the grey matter between one’s ears.

All the best
Gord
http://www.woodshopphotos.com/albums/album48/Delta_Unisaw_and_outfeed_table_Small.jpg

[Brian Hale]

Mine went on the saw as soon as i got it. Spent about 30 minutes getting it set right, cut some scrap strips to test it, took it off and hung it on the wall.

The idea of an over arm gaurd sounds like a good idea but i'm looking for a nice riving (sp?) knife first

Brian

[Dan Mages]

My grandfather lost two fingers because he thought it would be okay to run the saw without the blade guard. It will always be on there. Does anoyne know of an overhead guard that can be used on a mobile contractor's saw?

Dan

[Ted Daigle]

I'm with Gord. A splitter with kickback cawls is the bare minimum for safety. I've got a TS with the standard plastic blade gaurd. I keep it on although it's kind of a pain. What really makes me feel somewhat safer though is the splitter with the kickback cawls.

[David LaRue]

Here is what I use:

http://home.comcast.net/~mywoodshop/assets/images/Bies-complete-side-view-350.jpg

I have since added dust collection to the setup. It is much much easier to use the overarm guard than the stock one. Worth the investment. :)

[Mike K]

I use my TS guard religiously. I did take it off for some dados. After assembling some cabinets I realized I was one back short. Removed the dado and installed the regualr blade. Since it was the last cut of the day I did not reinstall the guard.
As the 1/4 plywood was going through I got some kickback and the plywood damn near took off my finger.:eek:
As a result I always take the time to reinstall the guard.

Mike

[Gord Graff]

Hi All,

No doubt that there will be many that advocate the use of a splitter and a guard, (I'm one of them) either stock or aftermarket but there will be some that refuse to use either.

To that I will say this; my father who stood in front of a table saw for nearly 60 years as a professional carpenter and cabinet maker used neither splitter or guard and he never had a problem...................go figure that one out.

All the best
Gord

[Jim Becker]

My setup is similar to Gord's with an Excalibur overarm guard that I use when I'm comfortable with the setups, etc. While I like the safety aspects, frankly, the dust collection is more important to me. There is a lot of material that comes off the top of the blade on through cuts and that's where these guards shine. But like Gord, I never work without my splitter (a Biesemeyer in my case) unless the type of cut does not allow it. I would prefer a riving knife over the static splitter for a number of reasons, but one cannot retrofit a US-style saw for such an animal and the Euro sliding saw I was planning on is much farther in the future for reasons I cannot go into presently. (Purely some economic decisions relative to priorities)

Sadly, the splitter/guard that comes with most US-style table saws is too hard to take off and on (non-through cuts require it's removal) so most folks just never put them back on after the first removal. Ease of use really counts a lot when it comes to things like this...

[Stefan Antwarg]

When I first bought my table saw, I installed the guard. Used it for a few weeks. Took it off and on several times for dados. Then just left it off. So no, I do not use a guard.

Stefan

[Mark Singer]

No ,,I never have . Just Board Buddies and being careful

[JayStPeter]

I regularly use a splitter and an overhead guard (old Excalibur that is the same as the Exactor). I find the removable splitter to be great. I use it all the time. I have removed the anti-kickback pawls and even use it with my sleds. Only removed for non-through cuts (i.e. dado).
I'm not a big fan of the overhead blade guard. Once the cuts get thinner (i.e. < 5"), it just gets in the way and seems to make the cut more dangerous. Plus, the DC on this unit is next to useless. Also, when I cut 8' long pieces, the offcuts get caught in it instead of sliding off the outfeed table onto the floor. Another case where it is more dangerous than not having it.
I had to take a year off of woodworking thanks to a job and location change. Since then the TS seems a little more dangerous than it used to. I like having the guard there, but will probably remove it as I feel it is equally negative as positive. I'm not sure if another brand or style of guard would do any better. I think part of the problem with this one is that it is sort of clunky to move away when I don't want it there.
I really like the looks of the one provided on the SawStop saw. It looks like a nice low profile guard that won't get in the way during use and removes easily. Hopefully, some aftermarket mfrs. will take notice and provide something similar for the rest of us. BTW, I know SS has a riving knife mechanism, but the removable splitter/guard combo could easily be adapted to other saws (and even include useful DC).

Jay

[Gord Graff]

Hi Jim,

I would argue the point that splitters are not that time consuming to put on or take off. I have over the years made several splitters for my saw and in each case the splitter takes only seconds to install or remove. If some out there are not happy with their stock splitters, make one that suits you.

With all due respect Mark, “being careful” don’t cut it in my book. Last year I was ripping a piece of 4/4, ¼ sawn white oak with a moisture content of 7% and the saw kerf closed right behind the blade while ripping just before the splitter could engage the piece………………….scared the crap out of me. Lucky for me the saw I was using was a 5hp Unisaw and I was able to force the piece to engage the splitter.

All the best
Gord
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/Picture0005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/Picture0002.jpg

[Lloyd Robins]

I have a Beismeyer splitter, and it works well. :D I also reviewed some old Badger Pond files and built (had built) an overhead unit. The ones that I saw had some pretty heavy duty blade covers, but I just have one that keeps my fingers away from the blade and allows for some dust collection. It cost about $100 and $80 of that was for a welder. If you weld you can cut the cost way down.

[everett lowell]

Thanks for all the input guys!I did forget to mention that i very often lower the blade under the table and slide on a plywood table that I made to fit my saw to use as an assembly table as im working.I will consider putting pn the splitter at least if it comes on and off pretty easy.Thnsks again guys,im so glade i found this site,what a great place to get info on the hobby i love so much.:)

[Byron Trantham]

I use the Beismeyer splitter and I love it. I tossed the blade guard that came with my Unisaw because I felt it was more dangerous than not using it.

[Dave Wright #2]

The first time I took the guard off my Delta Contractors Saw it stayed off for good. The unmount/remount cycle on that saw took about 5 minutes. I don't think woodworkers have an ingrained aversion to using guards. They just don't like using guards that are flimsy, awkward, and inconvenient. OEM guards aren't designed to protect the operator; they are carefully designed to be cheap to manufacture and do an excellent job of protecting the company that is thousands of miles away. These guards do their job best when they are off your saw.

Sell a saw with good guards and they will get used. The guards on my SawStop are used every time I cut with the saw. The riving knife doesn't interfere with any cuts, so it's there regardless. The regular guard is pleasant to work with and you can can switch from the riving knife to it in literally seconds. If your saw didn't come with good guards then you should look into aftermarket options.

[Jerry Olexa]

I'm not proud to tell you I never use one. I installed it when I got my Delta Contractor saw new 9 years ago and it was OK. First time I did Dados, I hated the time to remove etc. So, know I'm wrong but have never used since. In 2005 I plan to upgrade other safety devices for the TS. Haven't decided what yet. I also use a crosscut sled a lot so another factor, GUILTY as charged, Got to do better in 2005!:confused:

[John Miliunas]

Excalibur overarm guard with the Biesy splitter on my Bridgewood. Took the pawls off the splitter on the "drop" side of the cut. Both are used religiously, with the exception of dado cuts or with the Smart Miter. Yeah, a bit of a hassle sometimes, but I've had a few pieces of wood smack me in, as Bill G. calls it, my turning muscle, and it's worth the few extra seconds of setup! I agree with those saying that the stock units are close to worthless or worse!:cool:

[Frank Pellow]

I "lost" the guard on my old Craftsman saw the first time that I removed it for a dado, then used the saw without a guard for over 30 years.

I recently "lost" that saw and, when I replace it with a new saw, I resolve to keep the guard in place. In fact, that is one of my New Years resolutions.

[Tyler Howell]

Ordered the Excalibur after reading a thread like this on another forum little over a year ago. With it they started on all the old war injuries and color pictures . Don't have to hit me with a 2x4.
I have the Bies splitter on the PM.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=13783

[Mark Singer]

What if I want to hit you with a 2x4 as kind of a love tap?...Happy New Year...Tap! :D
Ordered the Excalibur after reading a thread like this on another forum little over a year ago. With it they started on all the old war injuries and color pictures . Don't have to hit me with a 2x4.
I have the Bies splitter on the PM.

[Dino Makropoulos]

Blade guard? what is that? :confused:
splitter? C'on!!!! What you thing, I'm one of this stupid guys that they don't know how to cut wood? :eek:
Do you see how many people losing their fingers on the table saws-joiners- Radial arm saws-miter saws and circular saws? In every trade show I go I see at list 3-5. Do you believe that we spend 5 B not 5, We're talking about 5 billion Dollars each year for hospital bills. For what? for some stupid people that don't know how to use a machine. :confused:
Now,look at me. Count my fingers. You see I have them all. All 10 my friend.
And you know why? Because I'm the best. For sure I'm better than all those with less than 10 fingers. :D
You see, you have to be like me. Be a man. :cool: Saw guard and splitters? C'on!!! :eek:
I'm telling you.You don't need this crap. go to the forums and you see what I'm talking about. The Table saw Mentality at It's glory. :rolleyes:
After all, the woodworking forums is a great place to learn about ......TTM.
Happy new year guys.
YCF Dino

[Ted Shrader]

Everett -

Good thread! I don't use the one that came with my PM66. Too cumbersome and does not provide a good view of the blade.

That said, I really like the overarm Brett Guard. It gets used all the time (except when using a cut off sled). It flips up out of the way for easy blade/fence adjustments. The blade cover slides back and forth to allow the fence to get up close for narrow rips.

Ted

[Ellen Benkin]

Me, too. I used the guard until I couldn't stand it anymore and then removed it. But I wouldn't use the saw for ripping without the splitter and cawls -- and they are also a real pain to take out and replace. I had one experience with kickback caused by no splitter and it will be the last such experience I ever have.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

My experience is similar to Gord's although I have no overarm guard...yet. I do have a splitter, but nothing else on the saw. I plan to get the overarm guard soon after the dust collector's 220 plug is installed. Things are slow at the shop for woodworking projects since the motor swap in my truck is taking priority.

I don't see why the overarm guards can't be adapted to portable saws...probably a good idea to mount it on a base of sorts with locking wheels.

I have never worked for or been taught anything on the TS by anyone who used a guard and no on I ever knew personally has been hurt. That said I will be happy to have the overarm guard.

[John Weber]

I use a Delta Uniguard on my Powermatic 66, works great, comes with a nice spiltter and less expensive then some of the other aftermarket guards. I've since upgraded to a Biesemeyer splitter, but still fine the guard very effective. It has a handy basket for storing push sticks and other TS stuff, and a mount for a task light that is aimed at the blade - very handy. It also is easy to flip out of the way for dados and other cuts, and has a split basket for odd cuts. The only thing it lacks is dust collection.

John

http://www.weberwoodworking.com/pond/shoptournecorner-l.jpg

[Jim Young]

I don't use a blade guard. When I first got my saw I put the guard on and thought it was more dangerous with it. I do howeven want to get a splitter. Having had a couple of kick backs I can see where the splitter would come in handy.

[Steven Wilson]

I always use my riving knife and guard. On the euro machine I use the riving knife and guard are properly designed and very easy and unobtrusive to use

[Keith Christopher]

I took the guard off for making dado cuts and never put it back on. I am a "nervous nelly" when it comes to the TS, so like Mark I tend to be more cautious on the TS than any other tool in the shop. I have a splitter installed after ripping a 8/4 piece of white ash and it clamped my blade and stopped my saw dead in it's tracks. I had installed a kick switch on my saw so I can simply tap with my foot and it's 0 power to the saw.

[Carl Eyman]

Can someone explain what is a riving knife. It sounds like it might be something that prescores the wood before sawing, but I can't see how that would be a safety aid. We non-Euoropean types need to know.

[Keith Christopher]

Stolen link but has a good pic and a link of some kickback (to those who have never seen it. ) -BTW this was a result of a google search "What is a riving knife"-


Keith

[Marshall Harrison]

Yes. I use it for every vut that I can only leaving it off for dado/rabbit cuts.
I sometimes lift the clear plastic guard but other than that the splitter and anti-kickback pawls are there. I'm still new enough (and hopefully will always be new enough) to have a healthy fear of what the blade can do. Once you start geting commfortable you get into trouble.

[Carl Eyman]

Sorry I was so lazy that I didn't look it up. I've got one, and it makes me feel much safer. I've taken one hit from kick-back and I have the scar to prove it. Don't want another.

[mike lucas]

I have always used both the splitter and the blade guard when ever it is possible. There are always going to be situations where one or both just can't be used. It is important to use them all other times.

Maybe this is a big part of me still having all my hands, and fingers after nearly 25 years of this.:eek:

[Terry Hatfield]

Everett,

I agree that the stock guards and spliters can be a pain but there are other options out there that are more user friendly. I have the MJ splitter and I made a overhead guard for my saw. I use both of them religously now. I have more information on both on my site if you would like to check it out further.

<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/ts7.JPG">

<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/ts6.JPG">

t

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Yep, I always use the splitter and guard on any cut that I can. I value my fingers.

[Keith Christopher]

Sorry I was so lazy that I didn't look it up. I've got one, and it makes me feel much safer. I've taken one hit from kick-back and I have the scar to prove it. Don't want another.
Carl,

No worries the googole search thing was only as a disclaimer to the link. More a "I don't endorse this msg board" thing.


Keith

[Carl Eyman]

With a little time on my hands this AM I looked to see what the catalogs had to offer for splitters. I found no after market splitters in Rockler, Woodcraft, Woodwkr Supply, or Highland Hardware. I don't know what I'd do if I didn't already have one. I tried to homebrew one before I bought this, but never came up with a design I thought rugged enough. I don't believe I'd operate a saw without one any more.

[Carole Valentine]

I use a Delta Uniguard and a Delta removable splitter. Five hours in the ER with my friend who made this staement the day before: "I've made this cut a thousand times. Haven't used one of those guards or splitter things in 40 years. Not gonna use one now!" plus looking at the woodworking accident report site, plus reading about the gory accidents both here and on other woodworking sites convinced me pretty quickly. I'm like Tyler...you don't have to hit me in the head with a 2x4 to make a point. The few minutes saved by not having a guard to flip up or a splitter to pull out doesn't even compare to the time, pain and $$$$ spent in recovery after an accident.

[Sam Chambers]

I have a Delta contractor's saw with the stock guard/splitter. I'm not thrilled with it, but I always use it unless I'm making a non-through cut. My thinking is that poor, inconvenient safety equipment is better than non at all.

As far as "being careful" goes, we can be as careful as we want, but if we don't take appropriate precautions, there's no way we can be safe. The best we can do is be lucky. I can't remember name of the web site with a database of workshop accidents, but when I read through it I noticed several common threads. It seemed that the people who got hurt had years of experience, had removed the safety equipment, and had been lulled into a false sense of security because they'd been lucky.

Personally, I'm not willing to take unnecessary risks that would cost me a finger, or a hand, or broken ribs, or perhaps worse. I enjoy woodworking, but there's just no sense in being unsafe.

[Scott Parks]

First, Keith, that's quite a picture of the link with a 1/4 peice shot through 2 hollow core doors!

Second, I've never, ever used a splitter or guard. I use my head. If I don't think a cut will be safe, I'll find a different way to do it, or not at all! I've had one nasty kick back like the one shown through the hollow core doors. In my case, I knew it might happen, so I made sure the area was clear. I know, this is a poor excuse. The kick happened, and shot a 3/4 square by 4' long piece of oak out my driveway and into the street. (50 feet!).

Third, I WILL BE adding a SPLITTER to my new Grizzly cabinet saw. Probably the MicroJig. I will also add an over guard just for the dust contorl. I am building a crosscut sled that will have a clear cover over the blade with a dust hookup also.

Last, In my previous experiences, I mostly use plywood. However as my skills are progressing, I find my self using more real lumber. I have seen the potential of maple to close up on the back of the blade. This is the reason that I feel it is VERY IMPORTANT for me to start using a splitter! In fact, I wont be ripping any more maple until I have a splitter.

[Chris Padilla]

No guard and no splitter for me.

However, I will start using the lil' green splitter from MicroJig. It is easy to mount and remove when necessary.

I'm also going to install a "thigh" bump to make shutting the saw down easier and finally take the board buddies out of their box and use them as well.

[Aaron Montgomery]

I've been using a Bisimeyer splitter since I got my Unisaw, but have never used a blade guard on any saw I have used. That's about to change however as I installed an Excalibur this weekend. I haven't used it yet, but it looks impressive. Honestly though I bought it more for the dust collection than the safety aspect. I figure I bought dust collection and safety was thrown in for free. :) Pictures to come shortly after a few mods to the saw.

[Rob Blaustein]

I've ripped maybe 5 boards for a project once so have very limited experience with this (and most other aspects of woodworking) but I have a general question about ripping safely that is related in spirit to the problems that people have brought up. I read Jim Tolpin's excellent Table Saw Magic book and he shows a way to rip if you're worried that releasing tension in the board after the cut may cause problems. He mounts a short sacrificial fence to the blade side of the regular fence that extends only up to where the blade starts. It allows a space for any expansion (after the cut) of the wood towards the fence, and presumably would prevent kickback. What I didn't get from his book is why one wouldn't use this all the time--is it because the longer fence gives a more accurate cut? I guess that must be the case, otherwise why have fences that reach across the entire table, but I don't have a sense of how much less accurate the shorter fence would be for ripping. Any thoughts?
-Rob

[Kevin Arceneaux]

All the time. That is one of the best features of the BT3100. It moves with the blade and is not that hard to put back on after cutting dado's. The guard is also easy to flip up out of the way to set the board to make the cut. A couple of weeks ago, I was cutting dados and realized I had to trim one more board, so I just changed the blade and did not put the guard back on. I made the cut, but felt very uncomfortable doing it.

[Carole Valentine]

I have never worked for or been taught anything on the TS by anyone who used a guard and no on I ever knew personally has been hurt. That said I will be happy to have the overarm guard.
I sure hope those don't turn out to be "Famous last words"

[Carole Valentine]

With a little time on my hands this AM I looked to see what the catalogs had to offer for splitters. I found no after market splitters in Rockler, Woodcraft, Woodwkr Supply, or Highland Hardware. I don't know what I'd do if I didn't already have one. I tried to homebrew one before I bought this, but never came up with a design I thought rugged enough. I don't believe I'd operate a saw without one any more.
There are a number of splitters available. Delta has the removable splitter, there is the Beis removable splitter and there is the Microjig splitter to name a few. The MJ splitter does not have the anti-kickback pawls (yes, I believe it is "pawls" and not "cawls".)

To answer your other question about a riving knife, the main difference I can see between the riving knife and the splitter is that the riving knife, unlike the splitter, rides up and down with the saw blade, thus maintaining a constant distance between the back of the blade and the knife. With a splitter, when the blade is very low, there is much more gap between a splitter and the back of the blade which could allow kickback to begin before the cut reaches the splitter.
Just my 2 cents worth!:)

[Kevin Arceneaux]

Carole, that is the truth. My uncle was teaching shop after he retired from GC and while demonstrating CS safety, he cut the ends of two fingers off. He did not like it when I asked him if it was required that he cut them off to make his point. :) His TS never had guards and splitters and I never felt comfortable using it when helping him with projects.

[Scott Parks]

I read Jim Tolpin's excellent Table Saw Magic book and he shows a way to rip if you're worried that releasing tension in the board after the cut may cause problems. He mounts a short sacrificial fence to the blade side of the regular fence that extends only up to where the blade starts. It allows a space for any expansion (after the cut) of the wood towards the fence, and presumably would prevent kickback.
-Rob Greetings, Rob! How's the green machine doing?

I have a theory to this subject. The danger of wood tension is when the wood closes up against the back of the blade. Due to the rotation of the blade, it will lift your board and if it catches, it will throw it back, thus kick back. By moving your fence forward, your wood can move toward the fence, which I don't see as a threat because it is not forced against the side of the blade. I would be very concerned ripping with this method because if you skewed your board slightly toward the fence, your cut off side WILL contact the trailing edge of the blade!!!! This will lift your peice off the table and cause the wood to be grabbed by the blade in the "forward rotation" area of the blade arc. Thus, a kick back! Therefore, a splitter is far safer and way more effective than the method you described. The best reason for moving the fence forward is when making repeated cross cuts with your miter guage. This way the cut off peice can not 'Jam" between the fence and the blade and be lifted or kicked. The fence is your stop to set a repeated cut. However a better solution would be to use a crosscut sled. Watch Norm Abram on the New Yankee Workshop. He uses a Delta UniFence and slides it forward all the time for making repeated crosscuts. You can do this by clamping a block to the forward part of your fence.

A very effective way to prevent a kick back is to keep the wood securely against the table. IE, don't let it lift. The forward motion of the blade does not contact your board unless it is lifted off the table. A simple featherboard on your fence will keeep the board securely against the table surface, not allowing it to lift. The portion of the blade doing the work is the leading edge forcing the board down into the table.

I hope this makes sense...

[Jim Hinze]

I use one.. just built an overarm guard (found the plans in the woodnet archives). I've knicked my fingers too many times not to have one....

http://www.cryptgym.com/wood/blade_guard1.jpg

[Silas Smith]

Maybe someone can correct me, but I took the stock spiltter and cut off most of the splitter until it somewhat resembles the biesemeyer. In other words, if the stock splitter is 12" long, I cut off the back 9". It still needs to be removed by taking off a single bolt, but seems to keep the wood from closing on the blade and is a lot easier to reinstall/align. I'm not sure about how effective the pawls are now.

[Jim Becker]

Silas, I don't use the pawls on my Biesemeyer snap-in splitter...they got in the way too much and sometimes damaged sheet goods and other delicate material. But I do run the splitter 100% of the time that it's possible and practical to do so. The setup you describe should work just fine.

[Jack Diemer]

I too used to not use the table saw gaurd, but I have now come to the conclusion that the dust may be as dangerous as the spinning blade. I made the same blade gaurd as Terry Hatfield and have been very happy with it. The MJ splitter is a must. There is actually a new double splitter that is suppose to be even safer.

[Ken Leshner]

I removed the stock blade guard/splitter on my Delta Unisaw after using it a few times. I replaced it with a home made splitter made out of a piece of aluminum ruler which was a few thousandths thinner than the blade and attached to the saw where the original splitter was installed.

[Bob Drury]

I always use mine when ripping. The guard doesn't concern me as much as the splitter. I had one experience with kick back, when I was was too lazy to put the guard back on after using my sled. That cured me! I'll never rip with out a splitter again.

[John Keane]

The issue blade guard/splitter that came with my Unisaw became a nuisance to attach/detach so I reluctantly removed it. I was uncomfortable not having a splitter so I called Delta and asked them if they had a thin kerf splitter. They did, and for a nominal sum I bought it and have been very pleased. It is an instant insert/remove. I recently attached the original blade guard to the splitter. I feel my fingers are more protected, but more often than not the blade guard is an obstruction rather than a help. I am considering removing it.

[Jim Barrett]

Never have used a blade guard on any of my table saws. The MM came with a rivling knife which was excellent. I just ordered a Biesemeyer splitter for my new General 350 table saw.

Jim

[Frank Pellow]

I use one.. just built an overarm guard (found the plans in the woodnet archives). I've knicked my fingers too many times not to have one....


Jim, I saved the picture of the guard you made in my to-do list. Do you have any advice about making the guard?

Also, I just spent some time poking around Woodnet and could not find the plans. I would appreciate it if you could send a link to the plans to fpellow@sympatico.ca.

[Steve Ash]

I've had my Delta contractors table saw for over 10 years and the guard has never been used.

[Jim Hinze]

Frank,

Sorry, it was wood central, not wood net... my mistake.
Overarm Blade Guard (http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml)

As far as advice:
Use 1/4" lexan, you don't need to go any thicker (I think the plans call for 1/2" which would be too heavy in my opinion, use a needle applicator for the acrylic adhesive, it's runny and messy... I didn't and have some smears.

The plans call for a 3" dust port on top, I ran a large section of 4" flex hose then branched it to 2 2.5" ports, front and back. It creats kinda a mini cyclone action inside the hood. I don't know if it's any better or not, but it seems to work well.

The plans also call for aluminum square tube for the overarm part... I used some scrap pine and plywood, works just as well.

Oh yea, and if you want it to look really good, don't let your 5 year old draw a shark face on it because she misses your old BT3100 shark guard :D


Jim, I saved the picture of the guard you made in my to-do list. Do you have any advice about making the guard?

Also, I just spent some time poking around Woodnet and could not find the plans. I would appreciate it if you could send a link to the plans to fpellow@sympatico.ca.

[Frank Pellow]

Frank,
...
Oh yea, and if you want it to look really good, don't let your 5 year old draw a shark face on it because she misses your old BT3100 shark guard :D
Thanks Jim!

I would think that a shark face drawn by a five year old would be the BEST part. :D My granddaughter Isla turns 5 soon and, if I build this, I will ask her to decorate it.

[Jim Hinze]

Thanks Jim!

I would think that a shark face drawn by a five year old would be the BEST part. :D My granddaughter Isla turns 5 soon and, if I build this, I will ask here to decorate it.


For me, yes it is the best part :D , but I had not remembered at the time you had grandkids my daughter's age... ;)

[John Keane]

Last night for my first contribution to this forum I wrote about my blade guard/splitter arrangement and that I was considering removing the blade guard.
Today after running several through dado cuts I switched to a combination blade and was running a short narrow test piece to verify the width. I was using a pusher and the board skewed I think because I got a real eye opening kickback and a sore finger as a reminder. I had had a senior moment and did not install the blade guard/splitter. I wont do that again.:mad: