$5 Unknown Plane

[Joseph D'Orazio]

I picked up a plane today for $5. I dont know anything about it, I figured if I lost $5 on it then it would be a lesson. It says V&B on one of the parts that holds the blade in. On that same part is the number 904. Its bottom has ribs on it, its 9½" long. The wooded knob and the back handle are in poor shape. I can submit a picture if you would like but I figure one of you here probably know exactly what it is.

[David Weaver]

Sounds like one of the steel vaughn and bushnell smoothers.

Probably looks like a bedrock, sort of, under the frog (if you remove the frog).

Even if it's junked and only worth parts (i doubt that's the case), it's still good at $5.

They are good planes, or I should say well regarded. I've never used one.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

Thank You Mr Weaver. My sons live in Western Pennsylvania.

I came by this plane today while I was down the street. I had ridden my tractor down the road to go brush hog a pasture when on a whim I decided to pull into our local drunks auto body shop. So I get off the tractor and walk up to him and his little group and he's drunk as usual. His little son-n-law was grinding on something and I went to look. He was grinding on the blade to this plane. I immediately stop him and ask him who it belonged to. He said it was his father-n-laws. I know his father-n-law, we've put many a case down, and he has never been a woodworker. He said he got it out of the back of one of the vehicles abandoned on his property (non paying customer). I offer 5 bucks and he says he will take 3 dozen eggs from my hens. I came back home and got the eggs ($4.50) and paid him. With any luck yall will guide me to replacing and repairing what is needed IF it is worth doing so.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

the last two pictures

[David Weaver]

It is complete and nothing is broken other than the wood. At the risk of sounding like an arse, it will be an easy restore other than the tote and knob.

It will not look like new when you're done (there will be dormant pitting left behind in some places), but it will be a clean plane and a good user.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

It is complete and nothing is broken other than the wood. At the risk of sounding like an arse, it will be an easy restore other than the tote and knob.

It will not look like new when you're done (there will be dormant pitting left behind in some places), but it will be a clean plane and a good user.
Thats what I am looking for, a tool I can use. I am still a greenhorn and I dont want to get totally caught up in machines and not learn how to use a plane.

[Heather Thompson]

Joseph,

Looks like a great find, I do not know about this plane but I just finished cleaning up a Disston D8 10ppi panal saw that dates to pre 1928, I used a product called EVAPO-RUST (AutoZone). This product is non-toxic, does not smell, biodegradable and will not make you grow a third eye (all-though that could be handy for looking over the tops of our glasses), the rust is gone!
I used a fine foam sanding block from ACE Hardware to remove the the darkened rust decay then covered with a coat of Renaissance wax, the saw plate looks great. A small wire wheel in a Dremal will do well in concave/convex situation.
For objects like planes I would recommend placing the piece in a ZipLock bag and pouring in enough E-R to cover with most of the air out, saves product.

Heather

[David Weaver]

Any rust removal product will neutralize it:

* Phosphoric acid etch (in the paint section at HD for $15 a gallon)
* citric acid bath
* electrolysis
* mechanical removal of various types

I used to have an electrolysis tub, but I have done mostly mechanical removal lately. I'd probably let that thing sit in phosphoric acid because it's cheap to do. Any of the chemical methods are going to etch the surface some and leave it grayish. I have never lapped all of the etching off, so I have no idea how deep it goes. That is why I have been sticking mostly to mechanical, if you want to work toward bright metal, you're going to do it, anyway.

[Jim Rimmer]

Is that a stealth gloat having your Leigh DT jig manual in the picture? :D

[Joseph D'Orazio]

Is that a stealth gloat having your Leigh DT jig manual in the picture? :DHa ha, no Sir, its not. I am still extremely happy with that purchase. Those dovetails have sold every bench I have made.

I've been trying to read about the Vaughn and Bushnell company, there does not seem to be a lot of information. I read elsewhere where one guy was telling the other that the company quit making planes in 1940 but he never quoted a source for that. How am I going to address those handles? They both are in pretty bad shape.

[James Taglienti]

That was a great story!

[Jonathan McCullough]

I use cheap white vinegar to bust rust on old planes and things. I wash first with a steel brush and soap and water to get the sawdust and loose japanning/rust off. Six to twelve hours in vinegar usually does it. Any longer than that can make the cast iron/cast steel/anything with carbon in it, sort of brittle and crumbly. Then another steel brushing with soap and water, then directly into mineral spirits so it doesn't flash rust.

[David Weaver]

Ha ha, no Sir, its not. I am still extremely happy with that purchase. Those dovetails have sold every bench I have made.

I've been trying to read about the Vaughn and Bushnell company, there does not seem to be a lot of information. I read elsewhere where one guy was telling the other that the company quit making planes in 1940 but he never quoted a source for that. How am I going to address those handles? They both are in pretty bad shape.

Make new ones or find a donor plane, though I don't know if those are exactly like stanley totes and knobs. I've never bought totes and knobs, most of the ones out there look terrible.

Supposing you get to the end of string, and the rest of the plane is totally clean and the way you want it, bring it up again. If you don't feel like making them by then, someone else might make you some. I like making them when I have the time, and I have pile of macassar ebony laying around, and I've run out of planes that need new totes and knobs.

Whoever makes them, you should ship the plane to them so they can fit them correctly.

The new manufacture junk that's around is tacky looking, and it doesn't necessarily fit all planes very well either.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

Make new ones or find a donor plane, though I don't know if those are exactly like stanley totes and knobs. I've never bought totes and knobs, most of the ones out there look terrible.

Supposing you get to the end of string, and the rest of the plane is totally clean and the way you want it, bring it up again. If you don't feel like making them by then, someone else might make you some. I like making them when I have the time, and I have pile of macassar ebony laying around, and I've run out of planes that need new totes and knobs.

Whoever makes them, you should ship the plane to them so they can fit them correctly.

The new manufacture junk that's around is tacky looking, and it doesn't necessarily fit all planes very well either.
Thank You. I will probably have them made. My woodworking skills are not on par with yalls yet. I am loving it though. I wish I had found woodworking a lot earlier in life, I wouldnt own these darn tractors.

That would be good if Stanley stuff fit it?

[David Weaver]

Thank You. I will probably have them made. My woodworking skills are not on par with yalls yet. I am loving it though. I wish I had found woodworking a lot earlier in life, I wouldnt own these darn tractors.

That would be good if Stanley stuff fit it?

If you run across a stanley 4, you can find out. Totes and knobs on ebay go for *a lot* for what they are. They will often outsell a plane that would've had them on as a complete plane.

IIRC, the "store bought" versions of rosewood totes and knobs are also not cheap. It usually takes me about $10 worth of macassar ebony or cocobolo to do a tote and knob. it's nice if the tote wood is quartersawn or rift sawn, and the grain in the knob is parallel to the knob screw (as are most 2x2 turning blanks).

If it's not clear from above, if I had the time and you couldn't find any better options, I would do them for free since you're new to this. People in this hobby have done a lot of nice things for me, sight unseen.

If you have a lathe, you may want to try making your own, it's not as hard to make a functional pair as it looks. It's only difficult if you overdo it with the tooling of everything.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

If you run across a stanley 4, you can find out. Totes and knobs on ebay go for *a lot* for what they are. They will often outsell a plane that would've had them on as a complete plane.

IIRC, the "store bought" versions of rosewood totes and knobs are also not cheap. It usually takes me about $10 worth of macassar ebony or cocobolo to do a tote and knob. it's nice if the tote wood is quartersawn or rift sawn, and the grain in the knob is parallel to the knob screw (as are most 2x2 turning blanks).

If it's not clear from above, if I had the time and you couldn't find any better options, I would do them for free since you're new to this. People in this hobby have done a lot of nice things for me, sight unseen.

If you have a lathe, you may want to try making your own, it's not as hard to make a functional pair as it looks. It's only difficult if you overdo it with the tooling of everything.
Aha, nope, I wasnt smart enough to catch your offer the first time. I will PM you tonight to see what you require. Thank You so much.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

I have taken everything off of the plane except the tote. I can not get that screw (bolt?) to back out. I admit that I stopped early for fear of damaging the screw head. I did put a fair amount of torque on it when I tried. I just didnt want to keep trying and find out later this is common and there is a trick to it. Any Ideas?

There is hardly any rust on the body of the plane. There was some old debris around the frog area where the screws go. I think I see some old japanning in the body where the tote and frog reside and its grey.

Also, as yall know, I've no experience with planes or with plane blade sharpening. I need one of those bevel guides I suppose, is there one I should stay away from?

[David Weaver]

None to really avoid, they all work.

A cheap eclipse style guide (the little gray one you'll see at every supplier) will work fine.

I think they use them as "profit center" type trinkets, so buy one where you find it cheapest - there can be big variance in the price.

You will get as good of results with that as anything.

[Jim Koepke]

For the tote and knob, they may be restorable until you can find a new set.

I have had some real ugly totes clean up and glue them back together and they turn out fine. Just glue them before you soak them in block oil.

Block oil is just mineral oil and is fairly cheap. Many drug stores will carry it in "food grade." It also is great on wooden kitchen cutting boards.

For cracks in the knob, you could try supper glue.

Also check the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs. There are a few posts in there about rust removal and old tool restoration.

In my experience is it is less expensive to find a donor plane than to buy just the wood.

jtk

[David Weaver]

BLO and super glue would be something that could fill the knob. I'd let the thing (the knob) sit in BLO in a closed container for a week and see what happens with it. It'll ooze BLO for a while after you take it out, but you can just wipe the "BLO perspiration" it from time to time until it stops and then glue the cracks and shellac it.

The tote could maybe be sanded and glued, but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't do the oil soak with it since it won't be compatible with gluing.

[Zach England]

I have always wanted a V&B plane. I love the way the logo looks and the "90X" on the lever cap. I think they are aesthetically beautiful planes.

I'd hesitate to get an off-the-shelf commercial knob and tote or to borrow one from another plane unless you can try it first. There was a "standard" bedrock-pattern, but in my experience it is the exception as often as it is the rule. The totes especially can be very different. They are really not as hard to make as one might think, but there are some tricks to getting the holes drilled correctly and a drill press or post drill is pretty much essential (IMO).

[John Powers]

The wood tells me as much as the metal. They've been in the rain. I'm retired with time to kill and I'm too busy to deal with those. There are so many nice clean planes around. A wartime #4 in a box for $12.00 just for pulling up and looking at a garage sale. To Each his own but they look far gone to me. Post the after pictures and I'll pluck a crow.

[Joseph D'Orazio]

I managed to get the tote screw out without damage. I took the tote and sole up to Sears and got the shortest screwdriver with the best fit to the screw and took the screw out. I then bought the screwdriver.

I think the plane is going to be fine. No, the tote and knob will not be used again. They are made of walnut according to an old ad I found. One of you has made a generous offer to help with that in case I cant find what I need. So, right now I am on the lookout for that sort of thing. I was planning on going to garage sales and pawn shops on the morrow to look around. I've doing a lot of reading and youtubing since I have picked this one up and I am starting to get an idea of which ones are for what. Seems I need a block plane and a Jack plane too. A large jointer will be nice. One at a time though.

Thank all of yall for your advice and help with this tool. I already know that I will never let this tool go until my kids get it when I pass. I am attached now. Might even become a plane fiend.