Hollow form question.

[Dan Forman]

So I'm working on my first hollow form, southwest style, first time I've used the Monster hollowing system. The piece is about 6" across by 4" high, shoulder is about 2/3 of the way up the form.

I actually have most of hollowed, the bottom has a fairly smooth inside contour, but having trouble with the top part getting to final thickness, about 3/8". I've tried multiple positions for the adjustable angle bit holder, but the tail end of the bit is forever getting in the way. If it were about an inch shorter, seems like it would be a lot easier to manage.

Do ya'll use something different for the top of the form, maybe a swan necked sort of thing? Seems like something like that with a small, circular cutter would work better than what I'm trying to use. If anyone can offer suggestions I would be eternally grateful. Thanks,

Dan

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dan I have a swan neck that I use from Randy at Monster Tools. I use it with a bit and with a hunter type bit for finishing. This arm and this hunter bit.

http://monster-lathe-tools.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=288&category_id=67

http://monster-lathe-tools.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=297&category_id=67

Works pretty slick Dan.

[Dan Forman]

I've got both of those, didn't think you could install the swivel bit holder on it. :o Do you find the supplied 2.5" bits too long? Think I'm going down to my local machine supply and pick up some shorter bits tomorrow. Thanks.

Dan

[Dale Bright]

I've got both of those, didn't think you could install the swivel bit holder on it. :o Do you find the supplied 2.5" bits too long? Think I'm going down to my local machine supply and pick up some shorter bits tomorrow. Thanks.

Dan

Dan,

Just cut the bit you have in half. You can score them with a cut off disc on a Dremel and then break them with pliers. Be sure wear eye protection when doing this. For the finishs cuts, I use flat scrapers that fit on the swan neck bar for my Monster.

Dale

[John Keeton]

Dan, Randy provided the following links for additional cutter material.

Go to
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=383-5312&PMPXNO=939775
and
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=383-5316&PMPXNO=939967

Buy 10 at a time of the ¼” and 3/16” square tool bits.

Couple of things I do -

I turn the cutter head 90*, and flip the cutter bar in its slot so the cutter is coming off the cutter head on the side closest to you. Sometimes that will give you better access. I also have a shorter cutter bar that doesn't extend out the back.

You can rotate the cutter bar to be pointing back toward you somewhat and easily undercut the shoulder.

I use the 1/4" cutters for finish work, and have some ground in various profiles to leave a smoother surface. I am also using the carbide insert Bernie referenced - though it does have a learning curve. I have found that I can grind back the side of a 1/4" bar leaving kind of a "side scraper" profile that works very well in those spots it will fit.

And, most importantly - these cutters are just like your gouges - touch up the edge frequently for the best cuts. Makes a world of difference.

And, one other thing - I often will use the cutter head in a position that prevents it from going in the entry hole while on the hollowing rig. I will align my laser, and then remove the cutter head, insert it in the form, and then reconnect to my rig. Of course, you will have to remove it from the rig to withdraw it from the form.

[Robert McGowen]

As previously mentioned, just cut the bits in half. I cut a groove around all 4 sides with the edge of the grinder wheel and then just snapped the bit in half with some large pliers.

[James Combs]

As previously mentioned, just cut the bits in half. I cut a groove around all 4 sides with the edge of the grinder wheel and then just snapped the bit in half with some large pliers.

Ditto on breaking the long bit although the first time I tried to break one I didn't score(grove) it:eek:. Put it in my vise and hit it with a hammer:o, not a good idea, it shattered and pieces went every where. Be safe guys/gals, score first.;)

[Fred Belknap]

I have a question along the same line. I am considering getting some tools with the cutter bits. Can they be sharpened without taking them off the tool holder? Was curious how you all do it.

Fred

[Jim Burr]

Dan, if you shorten the length a bit and as Mr. Keeton said, come to 90 or even a more acute angle, it should work. You can also remove the swivel bit from the arm, rotate and insert into your piece and re-attach it to your arm. I know it sounds drastic:eek:, but I do it all the time and it's not that bad;)

[Mark Hubl]

Dan,

Don't know much about captured systems. But on a piece with that size entry I would use one of my bent hand held tools to finish up the shoulder and then use a teardrop for shear scraping the inside.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dan - looks like you got lots of valid methods to use to hollow out the shoulder area! It is the one area that everyone has a hard time with - so don't get frustrated - just take your time and take light cuts.

You can score the cutter and break in half if you need a shorter cutter - but I highly recommend you keep a couple of cutters full length because there are times when you need that extra reach!

Have fun! Your HF is looking good so far!

[Dan Forman]

Thanks for all of the help. I'll be getting some more bits and trying some of the modifications.

Dan