Anyone changed the bearings in the old Silver Rockwell (P.C.) Routers?

[Nick Sorenson]

I've got an old twist base silver Porter Cable Rockwell 537M Router Motor that has a lot of play in the end of the arbor. It's to where I can see the bit runout at probably .060 or more when it's running! It's a huge orbit around the center point. Horrible runout...

So I think it's time for new bearings but I can't get the receiver that the collet screws into out. On my other PC router (7418 3.5HP I believe is the model) the collet has a nut as a part of itself and screws on to the male spindle threads. On the old silver 537, it's a female spindle and the collet has the male threads (no nut just an insert-able collet that has threads on it's outside). I'm at a loss on how to tear this thing apart. Anyone have any info on this router or a link to a rebuild?

thanks in advance!!
Nick

[Joe Jensen]

I took mine to a local power tool service shop, indendent but factory authorized for most brands. I think they charged me $65 for a new cord, brushes, and new bearings. It was more than doing myself but not that much.

Sorry I can't offer advice.

[mickey cassiba]

I'll look in my old SM. It's at work. I'll send you what I've got(if anything) tomorrow.

[mark kosse]

Mickey, post it here so we all know. I've been trying to get mine apart too. Thanks

[Chip Lindley]

First off, if the bearing itself is trashed, there may be hope. But, I am afraid that the bearing recess of your router's aluminum casting is wallowed out big time from high-speed centrifugal forces. If that's the case, new bearings will not help unless they are a press fit in the barrel. Some serious shims will have to be applied around the bearing to make it centered, and a press fit. LocTite gap-filling, heat-resistent compound should be applied to fix the bearing and shims in the casting. Even after all this work, the fix may not last long unless everything runs vibration-free. The bearing recess may again tend to wallow out.

There is currently a discussion (with pics) at owwm covering your exact old router's bearing replacement.

At least after disassembly, you will know what the verdict is. Now would be a good time to change your collet nose to the current-type instead of that old wedge-type which is so very hard to tighten well.

[Simon Dupay]

This took me awhile too to figure out, this is how I did it: remove the metal cap and windings from the router (there should be 2 screws at the bottom remove them and tap the top off). Then make a hole in a piece of hardwood that will fit around the copper part, cut hole in half and clamp it in a vise and then use a big wrench on the collet it should come off.

[Keith Blanchette]

After removing the 2 screws from the underside, I found a bolt to screw in the hole on the top of the motor (remove the screw that is there and insert a longer bolt). This pushes down on the shaft and separates the top from the bottom. I was then able to hold the armature with one hand (I wore a glove) and use an impact wrench to unscrew the collet. The impact wrench is the secret. I have also seen a procedure similar to the split board described above.