Setting up a grinder

[Robert Culver]

Ok so I'm slowly creeping into this world. I am getting ready to set up a 8in grinder and am looking for some advise on what grinding wheels I may need. Any help you can give is always helpful.

[Prashun Patel]

You'll need a 60 or 80 grit aluminum oxide grinding wheel. I have the white Norton one, but next time will get the 3x.

More critical than yr choice of wheel is choice of jig. If you have the $$, save yourself a lot of headache and just get the Wolverine system + Vari-grind (if yr using gouges)

Check out Around the Woods for some ideas on the cheap.

You might be surprised to find yr grinder runs quite bumpy once you replace the stock wheels. You will need to balance the wheel with a truing tool. Last, especially at the start (DAMHIKT) it's easy to create channels in the wheel. To eliminate those, you'll need a dressing tool.

[Michael James]

I have an 80 and a 120, white and pink respectively. I also set up a honing wheel for the lathe with some very coarse grit disk on the face to shape and save wheels. Also have a very coarse 6in grinder to just reduce metal if I need to to (again) save my wheels.
Grit used seems to to very subjective with no one right answer for everyone. Im sure the more experienced can elaborate on this.
+1 on the wolverine jig or similar and a device to true up the wheels. You dont have to spend big $$ for a set up, but you do need a smooth ride, and if you can't get consistency in your "bevel dressing" you will get frustrated, and that's just no fun.
my .02
mj

[Mark Hubl]

Agree with what has been said. Love my wolverine jig. Saves me metal and helps with repeatability. As far as wheels go some sort of AO is good. I currently have a 46 and an 80 Norton 3x on my grinder. I made the mistake of getting a 100 or 120 grit wheel. The mistake was not the grit but the hardness. The wheel was an "I" grade wheel. Way too soft for turning tools. Small gouges grooved it up way to quick. Ate that thing up way to quickly. I would still like a 100 and when I run across a harder one will probably pick it up. The wheels I now have are "K"'s. I am liking them much better.

I did spring for the oneway balancing system for these, but lots of folks have good luck with better bushings from an industrial supplier like McMaster and Carr.

A good diamond dresser is a must. And for truing up the wheel a diamond tool like oneways or Don G's works well. Just my 2Cents.

[Robert Culver]

I have heard good things about the wolveren so thats a for sure get. I am wondering however from what has been sad if I shold look at any particuar grinder has there . Is one a better chose than another as far a preformance im sure you get what you pay for and I have seen them for upwards of 300.00 but thats WAY out of my price range. I was looking at a porter cable.?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Robert I got mine from Woodcraft. Their slow speed grinder at the time already had the wheels needed and cost me around $90.

[Robert Culver]

that sounds like a decient deal I will have to look and see what they got....

[David DeCristoforo]

I use 80 grit and a 120 grit wheels on my grinder. I also have a horizontal power waterstone that has a 1,000 grit wheel. In addition to these, I made a plywood faceplate that is covered with leather and mounted on the outboard side of the lathe headstock. I charge this with emory and use it to touch up my tools as needed while I am working. Gets them wicked sharp!

[Ken Hill]

Robert I got mine from Woodcraft. Their slow speed grinder at the time already had the wheels needed and cost me around $90.


Same here. Works well.

[Robert Culver]

I have wondered about using leather most guys just say the use them off the grinder I imagine its a presonal preferance thing But I tend to like really sharp and stroping has its advatages for saving blade life also. Has anybody tried the felt wheels?