Miter Box?

[William M Johnson]

Over the past year I have built a Roubo and shifted very much to hand planes. I still have a PM66, molder, shaper, planer etc. Due to space restraints (building a helicopter) I have moved all of the corded tools out, at least for a while.

It seems like a miter box might be a good idea. The only decent looking one I have found is at Lee Valley. Are there others? What do you guys think about miter boxes?

I know I should practice without training wheels, but at this point I am interested in getting thing done. Maybe later I can become competent.

Thanks in advance

Bill
Wichita, KS

[David Weaver]

Langdon boxes are nice. The bigger the better. Since Chris Schwartz wrote an article, the big ones are getting harder to find on the internet, but they should still be available locally for a decent price.

I have used some newer ones. For all around work, I think they are all a compromise vs. the older boxes. That's just my opinion.

As far as size goes, if you are going to be anything other than small stuff, when you see one with a 22" saw, it sounds like a decent size, but once you get it, if you use hand saws a lot and are used to taking a full stroke, you'll quickly find that boxes with saws that size limit you to a short stroke, thus bigger is better.

[Jared McMahon]

I have the Nobex miter box, the full-sized (Champion) model, and have been using it to cut basic angles for baseboard moulding. It works, it's a good tool, but I'm definitely not blown away by it. The integrated clamps are functional but a little sad, and it's not always easy to find good places for other clamps to grip.

A few other things about it make it feel a bit "cheap". That's not the best word for it but I can't think of another that fits better. All that said, it cuts accurately once you learn to work with it. If I were you, i would look around for an old-style miter box/backsaw combo, and then if you get antsy or need to finish a project, pick up the Nobex and don't feel bad about it.

Jared

PS: Maybe if the Nobex made cuts a degrees off true, the moulding pieces would actually match up with the angles of the walls in this dang house...

[Russell Sansom]

I have a largish elderly Stanley, one with two slotted steel dowel-like stubs that hold the saw. With a decent saw sharpening it leaves an almost-finished cut. Mine gives me a good angle at 90-degrees. A wooden correction plate can be put on the back if the miter box has multiple holes in the back for attachment. I use this thing in the city where I have a "retirement job" of maintaining my father-in-law's Victorian apartment building.
Perhaps not the answer you're looking for, but I have an approach that I like better than the big metal tool. For every new project I take 20 minutes and make a cutoff box specifically for that project. With a box no wider than necessary I can use a joinery saw. I haven't figured out how much this accelerates the dulling of the saw, but I like the results. In hard maple I get a finished cross cut that is hard to distinguish from a perfect table saw cut. Well...almost.

[john brenton]

I have one of the older plywood bodied Stanley 110's with the post and guide thingamajig and I just finally started using it again when I was cutting some 8/4 lumber. I just use a regular saw, in fact I use one of those hardened teeth disposable Stanley panel saws they sell at the big box stores. I hadn't used it in a long time as I cut thin stock freehand...cutting straight on thicker stuff is hard, especially if it's an exposed joint and you need it to be seamless. There is a reason those things were invented.

You still need to clean up the end with on a shooting board though...there's one more thing you need. But it's easy to make. I was thinking that it probably wouldn't be too difficult to make a Miterbox/Shooting board. Of course it isn't difficult to use them separately...but it would be a nifty little device. Come to think of it, I bet one of these tool companies could make some money on that.



It seems like a miter box might be a good idea. The only decent looking one I have found is at Lee Valley. Are there others? What do you guys think about miter boxes?

[Zach England]

Forget the miter box. I want to see pics of the helicopter.

[Casey Gooding]

I believe the boxes LV sells are primarily meant for picture frame makers. An older large one would do you well. I picked up an old Millers Falls box with a good saw for $15 or $20 two years or so ago. All it needed was a touch up on the teeth and I was ready to go.

[john brenton]

Haha, I know right! If you can build a FREAKIN FLYING MACHINE for the love of God I imagine you could make a kick ace miter box!!!


Forget the miter box. I want to see pics of the helicopter.

[William M Johnson]

Sounds like one of the Millers Falls/Langdon is the way to go. Anyone tried the Lee Valley. Looks to have some nice features.

My builders log for the helicopter is www.mykitlog.com/discap (http://www.mykitlog.com/discap)

It is in transit. You can see the finished product at www.safarihelicopters.com (http://www.safarihelicopters.com)

Russell what is the "cutoff box" that you make?

Bill

[David Weaver]

Boxes I've seen that look fine, as far as brands to search for:

* Millers Falls
* Stanley / marsh (?) (like the 358)
* Goodell Pratt
* Some of the older Sears Craftsman (which appear to be newer millers falls fare)

I'd swear I've seen newer MF miter boxes with the brand Ingersoll on them, too. I'm not a collector, so I don't get swept up with brands and don't always remember everything I see.

All of the ones I've ever seen in person have surprisingly little wear on the saw, and the newer ones (50s or 60s?) all seem to still be well made, even though there may be more stamped parts on them.

Until recently, I have been too dumb to buy any of the big ones that I I've seen for relatively cheap because I was having a cheap streak the day I saw them. Last one was a huge gray millers falls / ingersoll? box I saw at an indoor flea market with an apparently unused saw for $50. it was ugly, but it was big.

I understand they were quite expensive when they were new.

[Zach England]

I'll trade my Nobex champion for the helicopter.

[Gary Herrmann]

Ingersoll is in STL. I remember talking to someone that said they acquired Miller Falls some time in the past.

David's seems to be right about the affect of the Schwarz. I was curious, so I've been watching mitre boxes and saws on the bay a bit lately. Since Ron Herman's article came out, the MFLA boxes have gotten pricey.

Local or internet if it isn't shiny mint, I'd think you could still do well on other good boxes.

[Mark Dorman]

Langdon boxes are nice. The bigger the better.
As far as size goes, if you are going to be anything other than small stuff, when you see one with a 22" saw, it sounds like a decent size, but once you get it, if you use hand saws a lot and are used to taking a full stroke, you'll quickly find that boxes with saws that size limit you to a short stroke, thus bigger is better.

I agree with David; The box I have has a 26" of usable blade, looked huge when I bought it. Then when you subtract the 12" of out to out on the saw guides your down to about 13". So ya the bigger the better. As far as the miter box goes I Like it better than the big box store stuff. I have one of them and I'll give it away this spring on a garage sale before I'd sell it.

[Darnell Hagen]

I've had two models of Lee Valleys/Nobex. I returned them both, the small one is just far too small, and won't lock at any other than the angles they set. The Champion is a much better tool but I broke one of the clamps on the second day. Also, the blades are impulse hardened, and unsharpenable.
I think you'd be much better off with a vintage Stanley. I've got a pair (http://thewayiwood.blogspot.com/2010/05/new-gets.html), I didn't pay more than $20 each and they've both got sweet saws, I'd take their lambs tounge over the Nobex plastic any day.

[Russell Sansom]

Too late to take a photo and a verbal description got very elaborate. Within the next couple days I'll take the requisite photos and start a new thread. Maybe people will share how they make their cutoff boxes.