Name That Type, Stanley No. 7

[Brett Bobo]

I've found a Stanley No. 7 for sale locally but the owner is not aware of what type the plane is nor how to price it. I believe it's a type 14 based on the following items:

1. Raised ring for the knob.
2. "Bailey in front of the knob and "Made In U.S.A." behind the knob.
3. No patent dates behind the frog on the sole of the plane
4. Pinkish or redish background for "Stanley" logo on the chipbreaker. No kidney shaped keyhole.

Attached are some photos of the plane. What type does this appear to be and what would be a fair price for it?

Thanks in advance,
Brett

[Pedro Reyes]

My guess is Type 15, based on what I can see.

peace

/p

[Jim Koepke]

+1 on what Pedro said, dates to ~ 1931 or 1932

Value is a very big moving target. The best way to figure the price is to look at completed auctions on ebay.

Condition is the biggest determination of price, then it is usability.

If the blade is damaged from pitting, it may make a big difference to many. For some, they will spend more for a new blade and breaker than they will for the plane.

Of course, if you watch the auctions, you will see a lot of people will pay more for good rose wood handles than they will pay for a beat up plane with good rose wood handles.

My thoughts on this is just my opinion. I do not like tall knobs or corrugated soles. Some people will prefer both.

I do like the frog style on your plane. I do not like the newer style.

So, it is all subjective.

jtk

[Johnny Kleso]

You can see just a little Orage Paint on the sides of the frog...

Thats a Type 15
Not all have it but all the have paint are T15s

PS: The T14 Would have the Patent Date

[john brenton]

This is why I don't even mess with the Stanleys. There is too much to know and I'm too lazy to educate myself.

I found an old corrugated #7 in pristine condition, with the transfer on the rosewood tote, the keyhole style lever cap and all that jazz for $150...but how do I know I wouldn't buy it and put it up for sale only to have somebody say "oohh, those handles are 1934, when the lever cap is clearly 1935." or find out that there are tons of that particccccccccccular model flying around.

It's like some Sargent planes I've had. One number is worth hundreds while another number (one number difference) is worth zip...money wise that is.

[Brett Bobo]

All,
Thanks for the responses--type 15 it is!

On the type studies I've seen on the Bailey planes, I thought "Bailey" was moved behind the knob from type 16's and up. Is this not true on the large planes, like the no. 7's and 8's?

I've researched the value on sites such as Ebay and the prices are all over the board so it's hard to pinpoint the true value. Would you say that $50 would be a steal? Or, $100 would be overpriced?

Also, what are the advantages and disadvantages to the corrugated sole?

Thanks again,
Brett

[Mel Miller]

Does it really matter what "type" it is? Common planes like that are usually bought by users, and it's more important to them to get the condition and features they want rather than an exact so called type.
Stanley, like many other manufacturers, generally used up existing stock before going to new planes with all the new type "XX" features. You don't have to look at very many Stanely planes to find one that has features of more than one type.
Parts also get replaced and mixed between planes over the years.

Mel :)

[Brett Bobo]

Does it really matter what "type" it is?
Mel :)

Afternoon Mel,
My two concerns for identifying the type are due to first, my preference of type 11's through 15's as good users (pre-war, well-made) and secondly, to determine a fair price for the plane. For example, I wouldn't pay $75 for a type 20 and on the flip side, $75 for a type 11 may be a bargain. Also, as others have mentioned as well, there are crossovers with almost any plane based on available parts but I was just trying to nail down the general type. Hope that clarifies the basis of my post.

Brett

[Erik France]

I've researched the value on sites such as Ebay and the prices are all over the board so it's hard to pinpoint the true value. Would you say that $50 would be a steal? Or, $100 would be overpriced?I'd guess $60-$80 would be a fair price, probably a bit to the higher end. The iron doesn't look real long, and there's some pitting & small dings on the sole. The tote & knob appear to be nice which would help the price. Looks to be a fairly decent user.

[mike v flaim]

Clean knob and tote, corrugated sole with no pitting. I'd say you could get $80 -$100 bones for it assuming the mouth is not cracked. If you sell it on Ebay you would get more for it if you shipped worldwide. Buyers in Australia and Italy love old Stanley No 7's. The length of the blade is a little down fall but a user would probably buy a new blade anyway.

The corrugated sole was a marketing feature on planes claiming two things. One was that the plane was easier to push because there was less friction on the sole. Second, it was easier to flatten the bed because you had less metal to remove. I don't buy either one. My corrugated soled planes are perfect for collecting dried glue and rubbing on a freshly planed work piece. As far easier to push, that's why I rub parrafin wax on the sole.

[Jim Koepke]

This is why I don't even mess with the Stanleys. There is too much to know and I'm too lazy to educate myself.

I found an old corrugated #7 in pristine condition, with the transfer on the rosewood tote, the keyhole style lever cap and all that jazz for $150...but how do I know I wouldn't buy it and put it up for sale only to have somebody say "oohh, those handles are 1934, when the lever cap is clearly 1935." or find out that there are tons of that particccccccccccular model flying around.

It's like some Sargent planes I've had. One number is worth hundreds while another number (one number difference) is worth zip...money wise that is.

If you were buying something to resell, then you better know the market and what you are selling.

If you want a good user, it would be a waste of money to buy a plane in pristine condition.

The very reason you mention for not bothering with old Stanley planes is the very reason I have a pretty full set. There are a lot of people who know nothing about them and do not care to know anything. They either want a lot of money for their old rust bucket and I say, "asta la vista baby" or they will accept a reasonable amount for their offering and we can do business.

If one of my planes is for sale, it is usually pretty clear to the buyer that it is not of collector grade. If someone were to ask me when I am feeling a bit off if the handles or lever cap were correct for the type, I might ask them to go some place else to buy an old plane and not bother me.

I have no qualms about turning one of my planes in to a Franken plane if it will suit my needs better.

Most of my planes have larger adjusting nuts on them even though they were made before the larger adjusters were used by Stanley.

Many of them have had the totes modified to improve comfort in use. Some of the early totes even on the bigger planes were not conducive to wrapping more than a finger or two around them.

All but one of my user planes has a low knob. The one that doesn't is a beat up #5-1/4 that will not take a low knob.

And yes, collectors will drive prices crazy. Some of the Stanley planes are ridiculous when it comes to pricing. A #1 is about $1000 last time I looked. A #2 about $200, a #3 about $30-50. A #4 or #5 can be found at yard sales and flea markets every where for $5 & up. They just might need some TLC.

jtk

[john brenton]

I don't really understand the collector's mind myself. There are of course some things I would never buy if they weren't 100% authentic...but those are things I really wouldn't buy period! I don't like having "valuable" or "irreplaceable" things like that...it's just another burden to me.

The only metal bodied plane I have...or USE, I should say...is a 110 block plane. Adjusting iron bodied planes just annoys me now. I'm sold on the woodies, so the only interest I have in Stanley's or other brands is the resale value.



If you were buying something to resell, then you better know the market and what you are selling.

jtk