Online dictionary of hand tools???

[Dan Barr]

Is there an online dictionary of hand tools? i'm looking but havent found one.

I did find a few books on amazon. "dictionary of american hand tools" looks pretty interesting.

Thanks,

Dan

[Kevin Lucas]

try this and use search

http://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks%3A1&tbo=1&q=woodworking&btnG=Search+Books#hl=en&expIds=27744&ds=bo&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=hand+tools&cp=7&qe=aGFuZCB0bw&qesig=sTKaPNGwu4GwoGTVTtWs-g&pkc=AFgZ2tlr1IhkwOPH3IJ5uZkoiCs2lDSvr9aDOxiUARbFuD 6CavpZ67LMUL6woOJEjwPTlDuk1GwwznBdDD9tGu_yAXcozuCR 9A&pf=p&sclient=psy&tbo=1&tbs=bks:1&source=hp&aq=0&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=9c9892830b59e5d4

there is another link somewhere on here for old woodworking books but I cant find it at the minute. I have Way too many bookmarks. Some of the google books are not full books

[harry strasil]

There is also a book, Dictionary of WOODWORKING TOOLS by R. A. SALAMAN and A Museum of Early American tools by Eric Sloane.

[george wilson]

It was Salaman,I'm pretty sure,who made the incredibly false statement that beech was used for tools because it is so stable !!

It has been many years since I read that. Correct me if I am wrong. The statement was obviously written by someone who had NEVER dried beechwood,nor,most likely EVER made a tool,like a long cooper's jointer from it.

[Richard Kee]

I received a "Dictionary of American Hand Tools" for Christmas a couple of years ago. It's a neat book. If you're interested in a copy, look for ISBN: 0-7643-1592-7.

Richard

[Jim Koepke]

Garret Hack's Classic Hand Tools sure has some purdy pictures.

As far as an online dictionary goes, you may have to make your own from what is available. In other words, find sites like Blood & Gore for planes, George's Basement for drills and so on.

I am not exactly sure on what you are trying to find. Are you looking for a source of information on hand tools and there use or are you looking for definitions of hand tool terminology?

I also have a copy of the Illustrated Encyclopedia of Woodworking Handtools Instruments & Devices by Graham Blackburn.

I guess it is now volume 1 of a 3 part series. You can find more information at blackburnbooks.com.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Well, when Geocities or whatever the free web hosting site was closed down, I thought this might be lost, but Brians Basement is back:

http://galootcentral.com/membersites/brianwelch/index.htm

For historical information and research on tools, this is a great site.

He has not updated the page. Some of the links may be dead ends.

jtk

[Peter Evans]

A reasonable glossary, but the best ref is Salaman.

http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears%20Tools/Glossary%3A%20Axes,%20Edge%20Tools,%20etc..html

[Jim Koepke]

A reasonable glossary, but the best ref is Salaman.

http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears%20Tools/Glossary%3A%20Axes,%20Edge%20Tools,%20etc..html

Wow, I just found this site, following a link on the Schwarz blog, and was going to post it but was beaten to it by Peter.

jtk

[Steve Branam]

It was Salaman,I'm pretty sure,who made the incredibly false statement that beech was used for tools because it is so stable !!

It has been many years since I read that. Correct me if I am wrong. The statement was obviously written by someone who had NEVER dried beechwood,nor,most likely EVER made a tool,like a long cooper's jointer from it.

George, now you've got me worried! I've been staggering around like a zombie with my arms out saying "Beech is for tools, beech is for tools, beech is for tools!"

So have I been brainwashed into thinking that? I've been looking for beech for molding plane blanks. What's the story on it? While I can see that its density might make it difficult to dry, is it not stable once it's been given a few years? European planemakers like ECE and Ulmia use it heavily, and a lot of old molding planes are made from it.

[David Weaver]

Beech, once it's dried, is nice for moulding planes because it works nicely given its hardness, and finishes to a nice texture and because there isn't a great demand for it in furniture (other than as a utility wood).

The reason it's hard to find is because it's a pain to dry, the market was ruined a couple of years ago by a shipload being dumped here, and nobody else wants it and will pay any appreciable price (other than tool makers, and there aren't many of us).

The owner at Hearne gave me a funny look two years ago when I told him I wanted a stable plane wood, and asked if they had beech, pear or apple. He didn't use the words "beech is junk", but I gathered that

The only one I've had the (dis)pleasure of drying is apple, it's horribly behaved.

If you want QS beech, I would suggest finding someone in ohio who cuts firewood for a living, because people love to burn it and there seems to be tons of it there.

The couple of times 8/4 and larger QS beech has appeared to in the last couple of years, it's disappeared just as quickly.

for moulding planes, hearne has QS cherry, but a lot of it looks like it's cut more like rift. I would want to pick it up in person so you could go through the pile. For personal tools, it is fine, and it's already kiln dried. I'm sure there are other places here and there that would have it cheaper and maybe mill it to your specs if asked, and dry it. The fact that it might not wear as well as beech shouldn't be a big deal, because you're going to need to put boxing on any very high wear contact areas if you want it to last a long time anyway.

That avoids the discussion about long planes. I have no idea where you get QS beech big enough for long planes without harvesting and air-drying the blanks yourself.

[John Coloccia]

While I can see that its density might make it difficult to dry, is it not stable once it's been given a few years? European planemakers like ECE and Ulmia use it heavily, and a lot of old molding planes are made from it.

Beech readily reacts to changes in the humidity. You have to seal it pretty well to keep it true. I've nothing against Beech. My bench is made of Beech. It's a bit more brittle than I would like but it's dense and heavy.

[David Weaver]

While I can see that its density might make it difficult to dry, is it not stable once it's been given a few years?

As long as it's properly quartersawn, it's relatively stable in terms of straightness of a billet. If it's not fully dry, it will shrink and cause problems with the wedge fit and your fitting of the iron (speaking about making moulding planes) flush to the edge of the plane.

If it's dry and not properly quartersawn, it will still move some on you, in a way you don't want. Look at the later cheaper made planes, they are often not close to straight if you put a reference to them. They also often look like they didn't get used much.

The longer the plane, the more important that it's milled properly. A big plane that twists is a pain, and if you pick up enough old woodies, you'll find planes that have, especially later 19th and earlier 20th century - at least that's been my experience, only my opinion, and i'm just a hobbyist.

[harry strasil]

FWIW, In my rambling around at antique malls and such places, I buy up every large old plane that is more or less firewood because of dry rot, neglect and whatever else ails these relics of the past that go for little to nothing and save the blades, wedges, etc and cut the bodies up to make other woodworking tools from. A good long soaking in BLO, like the old time WWers used to do, usually revitalizes the wood and also adds weight.

Just my 2¢

[john brenton]

I've found the Creek here to be the best "Encyclopedia" around.

Is there an online dictionary of hand tools? i'm looking but havent found one.

I did find a few books on amazon. "dictionary of american hand tools" looks pretty interesting.

Thanks,

Dan

[David Weaver]

FWIW, In my rambling around at antique malls and such places, I buy up every large old plane that is more or less firewood because of dry rot, neglect and whatever else ails these relics of the past that go for little to nothing and save the blades, wedges, etc and cut the bodies up to make other woodworking tools from. A good long soaking in BLO, like the old time WWers used to do, usually revitalizes the wood and also adds weight.

Just my 2¢

And I felt bad when I started cutting some of mine. (well, I didn't feel bad, I just figured it wasn't something I should say out loud). It only makes sense to chop up a plane that's otherwise junk and use its parts for something useful.

The beech in the planes I've cut has very tight rings, doesn't look like anything I've seen on a lumber rack or the end of a firewood log from a farm tree.

[Dan Barr]

thanks, all for the relevant replies. very useful

all other replies about beech: hijackers. LOL

beat it, scram!

start your own thread! :D

dan