Time to Rehab chisels

[Mark Stutz]

Well, it's time to start in on my ebay chisels. Have gone back and reviewed several old threads here and done some other reading. Will be experimenting with both electrolysis and with Phosphoric acid as in Bob Smalsers' wonderful tutorial. I do have several questions, though. (Someday I'll be able to answer some rather than just ask :D .)

1. Why would anyone beat on the end of a socket chisel without a handle! :confused: :mad: I have a couple with slight mushrooming. Can I use a file to remove this or is a bench grinder a better choice?

2. I'm assuming that the size and shape of the handle is a matter of personal choice. I actually like the size of the blue handles on my Marples. Some of my acquisitions have handles, but they feel too small in my hand. I don't know how to tell if any are original or not, but what size were the original handles. I guess I'm thinking that if the original handles were that small size, then maybe my technique for holding them is incorrect. As it is my hand extends well down onto the socket. Should it, or it this just a matter of personal taste? That actually is my assumption.

3. Any tricks for removing handles I don't like? Cut them off and drill out the rest?

4. Leather washers. Are they necessary? It seems that on the ones I have there is a wooden tenon that absorbs most of the blow anyway.

Well, enough rambling for tonight. I'm sure I'll come up with some more questions as the weekend progresses.

[Marc Hills]

Well, it's time to start in on my ebay chisels. . . . . I do have several questions, though.
The follow advice is subject to approval/endorsement or outright refutation by Bob Smalser, Dave Anderson and others more knowledgable than I.


1. Why would anyone beat on the end of a socket
chisel without a handle! I have a couple with slight mushrooming. Can I use a file to remove this or is a bench grinder a better choice?
You'll go crazy trying to divine the reasons for the abuse visited upon old tools. Suffice it to say that when most woodwork was done by hand and tools were much more common, they were not held in the same esteem as they are today. I know that if not for abused tools, I wouldn't have been able to afford a lot of the now-restored relics in my collection.

I say if you're not lucky enough to have a taper mandrel to beat the mushrooming back into proper form, hacksaw off the offending portion and file smooth.


Some of my acquisitions have handles, but they feel too small in my hand. I guess I'm thinking that if the original handles were that small size, then maybe my technique for holding them is incorrect. As it is my hand extends well down onto the socket. Should it, or it this just a matter of personal taste? That actually is my assumption.
I too have noticed that a lot of the existing handles on old chisels seem tiny, even accounting for the fact that people were smaller 75 to 100 years ago. Don't assume there is something wrong with your technique; a lot depends on what particular operation you are performing with the chisel. I've often held my chisels exactly as I would a bathroom plunger and a paring knife, for instance. Go with what feels good, and if a modern chisel provides a satisfactory model for a good handle size/shape, I say go for it.


3. Any tricks for removing handles I don't like? Cut them off and drill out the rest?
I'd consider that only as a last resort. If locking the blade down in a (wooden jawed) vise and twisting the handle doesn't work, then apply a judicious amount of heat to the socket and then twist.



4. Leather washers. Are they necessary?
I've never been able to locate a source for new ones. The washers on all my old chisels are rock hard and likely have lost most of their shock-absorbing utility anyway. Still, I am partial to that traditional look. Bob?

[Bob Smalser]

Socket handles were preferred in preceding eras because work didn’t have to stop when the handle broke; the tradesman simply pounded the socket instead until he could replace the handle on his own time. That wasn’t as mortal of a sin then as it is today, because we tend to forget that these men were working more for their daily bread than love of craft, were often paid by the piece instead of the hour, and finishing the job after hours was problematic in the expensive and poor lighting before electricity was common - and in many rural areas, that wasn’t until the late 1930’s.

The best method for removing handles is to chuck the blade in a padded vise and heat the socket with propane, twisting and pulling as you go.

Careful, tho....you need to make an effort to twist the handle out....heat alone will pop the handle out like a bullet.

I like fatter handles than originals....simple make them to fit your hand.

Leather washers probably don't do much but are easy and have a nice look.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11538&highlight=chisels

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5090019/64843217.jpg

[Mark Stutz]

Thanks Marc and Bob.

I knew there was something I forgot last nite. On several of my finds, and in pictures of others I have seen, the shoulder on the handle is anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 in. proud of the socket. I considered that this was intentional, so the shoulder wasn't bottoming out and edge of the socket absorbing all the blow, but others I have and have seen are flush. Are these just poorly fitting handles? I prefer the aesthetics of a properly fitting one unless there is a reason not to.

Mark

[Bob Smalser]

Better to leave those shoulders proud and a drive fit like the factory til you get some practice fitting handles. The exceptions are heavy slicks and framers that should be epoxied (some were pinned) so a loose handle won't cost you or somebody else a toe.

The ones I do flush are thoroughly bedded in epoxy...something I do with occasionally for aesthetics only.

[Mark Stutz]

Thanks, Bob. Should have realized there was a good reason! Couldn't have been that many poorly made handles!!

[Bob Smalser]

One last point....another reason I like the leather washers is that although they involve a couple more steps, they are easier to do than turning and finishing difficult end grain trying to match up how round the top of your handles are in making a set.