220V multi tap?? receptacle

[Dave Verstraete]

I currently have three machines ( Griz G0490X Jointer , Griz G0453Z Planer, and Rikon 10-345 Bandsaw) that I am always unplugging and plugging into the same drop cord receptacle (Nema 6-20R). Is there a receptacle or box that is appropriate to keep all three plugged into? I never run them at the same time.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I'm sure it is not legal but if you only run one at a time you cannot cause a problem.I had your situation. bought three outlets and a box they all could fit in and series wired them. hooked one to the power and modified a solid cover to fit. worked great until I rebuilt the shop and was able to rewire.

[David Castor]

As long as the upstream circuit breaker or fuse (and the wiring) is sized per the receptacle ratings and all receptacles have the same rating, I don't think it is an NEC violation. I'm not aware of any commercially-made products that have multiple 240 V outlets (a 240 V power strip?), but as Bernie says, you can probably put something similar in place by just having multiple receptacles on the same circuit. This is actually what I am planning in the near future in my garage.

This is done all the time at 120 V, of course.

[James Baker SD]

I ran conduit to a box with a single (legal per code) outlet. Then I ran short (3" ) conduit from it to another box with an outlet, then same thing to a third. Like you, I am a 1 man hobbyist and never run more than 1 machine at a time. Easy to get back to code by removing the additional boxes.

James

[Ray Newman]

Like many, I operate a “one-man, one-machine-on-at-a-time” wood shop. The shop has a 220 receptacle that powered the Uni-saw.

Well I soon tired of unplugging and plugging in the saw or the jointer, the planer, or the disc/belt sander when I wanted to utilize them.

So in a rare moment of inspiration, I fabricated a 12’ long power strip that has 4 twist lock receptacles, connected by EMT. Securely fastened a 12’ long piece of 1x 6” to the wall and mounted the EMT and receptacles to it. To use, plug the power cord into the pre-existing 220 receptacle. When done for the day, unplug the power cord and all the machines are “dead”.

If necessary, just remove half a dozen or so screws an the whole shebang is off the wall.

The most expensive items were the twist lock plugs and receptacles. The EMT and the metal boxes were relatively in expensive as was the 10 gauge wire, purchased by the foot from a bulk roll.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Nothing in the NEC prevents multiple 220 rect. (within limits as to the number) on a 220 circuit. From electric supply houses you can ORDER 220 volt duplex recpts. But be holding on to the counter when you ask the price. I put two in one double box, using a blank cover, hole sawed out to fit them.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, it can be done. I have several 240v circuits in my shop that have more than one outlet for convenience, although most are dedicated. Simply split the circuit in a j-box and branch to each 240v receptacle you need.

[Rod Sheridan]

Dave. I only have one machine circuit in my shop, a multi-wire branch circuit with a 120Volt and 240 Volt duplex receptacle sharing a 4 inch square box.

I have 5 of them spaced along the shop at appropriate intervals.

It's a very common approach to installations.

Regards, Rod.

[Thomas Canfield]

Dave,

I had two (2) 30 amp 220 V circuits installed in my shop. I went back and changed one breaker to 20 amp for my 2HP dust collector. The other 30 amp circuit ended up being run to a small panel with three (3) 20 amp breakers to outlets mounted off the panel and used for my 2 HP Powermatic 3520b, 2 HP jointer, 1 1/2 HP table saw, and 2 HP air compressor. I unplug the Powermatic when not in use and that outlet is used for the jointer. There is almost no chance that I will use the jointer, table saw, or lathe at the same time, and any of those and the air compressor are well under the 30 amp service to the small panel and all the equipment is on a separate 20 amp breaker.

[Chris Mahmood]

Nothing in the NEC prevents multiple 220 rect. (within limits as to the number) on a 220 circuit. From electric supply houses you can ORDER 220 volt duplex recpts. But be holding on to the counter when you ask the price. I put two in one double box, using a blank cover, hole sawed out to fit them.

The exemptions in 210.8.A for non-GFCI receptacles in garages only apply for dedicated use circuits (either inaccessible or always having a plug in them). It's sort of up to the inspector but in 2/3 cities I've added 240V circuits the inspectors gave me the choice of removing all but one outlet on each circuit or installing a 2-pole GFCI breakers.

[Rob Russell]

The exemptions in 210.8.A for non-GFCI receptacles in garages only apply for dedicated use circuits (either inaccessible or always having a plug in them). It's sort of up to the inspector but in 2/3 cities I've added 240V circuits the inspectors gave me the choice of removing all but one outlet on each circuit or installing a 2-pole GFCI breakers.

There's nothing in the NEC that would require you to have GFCI protection on 240v circuits. If you read 210.8, it's all about 125v circuits.

[Kirk Poore]

There's nothing in the NEC that would require you to have GFCI protection on 240v circuits. If you read 210.8, it's all about 125v circuits.

That's my experience. My electrician wired 8 240V outlets on four circuits, no GFCI. But he went a little nuts and put a GFCI outlet in every 120V box (with a second, non-GFCI outlet there also).

Kirk

[Rob Russell]

But he went a little nuts and put a GFCI outlet in every 120V box (with a second, non-GFCI outlet there also).

The one advantage that installation gives you is that - if a GFCI trips - it's only going to take out that 1 pair of duplex receptacles and not everything. Otherwise it seems like a waste of expensive GFCI receptacles to me when you only needed 1 to protect the whole circuit.

[Mark Bolton]

Wouldnt be a big deal to just gang up some boxes at your current receptacle location and install as many receptacles as you need in that one location. It would be no different than having a 2, 4, 6, or 8, gang box full of receptacles on the back of your bench. Just allows for many tools to be plugged in, if you run too many at once the breaker trips.

As has been said, the key is the breaker is sized appropriately for the wire feeding the circuit.

Mark

[Chris Mahmood]

There's nothing in the NEC that would require you to have GFCI protection on 240v circuits. If you read 210.8, it's all about 125v circuits.

Yeah, that's true. In my case I always install L14 receptacles so I can get 120V for task lights at machines but the last inspector I dealt with regarding this wouldn't budge even when I showed him that the lights would be hardwired with no 120V outlets. Of course, the same inspector also made me put green wirenuts on all of the ground splices (seriously), bury a second ground rod without measuring the ground resistance with one, and demonstrate that the receptacle boxes had sufficient volume so he probably had other issues. Thanks,

[Mark Bolton]

Yeah, that's true. In my case I always install L14 receptacles so I can get 120V for task lights at machines but the last inspector I dealt with regarding this wouldn't budge even when I showed him that the lights would be hardwired with no 120V outlets. Of course, the same inspector also made me put green wirenuts on all of the ground splices (seriously), bury a second ground rod without measuring the ground resistance with one, and demonstrate that the receptacle boxes had sufficient volume so he probably had other issues. Thanks,

Sounds like an inspector that is trying to flush the homeowner out of the process and protect the trade. Being a contractor I have always argued somewhat contrary to most in the trade that the homeowner should be able to do anything as long as they are willing to go through the permit/inspection process. About the only thing I can see is not allowing homeowners to do plumbing but even that is a grey area if inspections occur.

Sadly, you have little recourse against an ornery inspector, just say yes sir, no sir, and get him out the door. Starting a pi**ing contest generally leaves you in a far worse position.

Mark

[Curt Harms]

Sounds like an inspector that is trying to flush the homeowner out of the process and protect the trade. Being a contractor I have always argued somewhat contrary to most in the trade that the homeowner should be able to do anything as long as they are willing to go through the permit/inspection process. About the only thing I can see is not allowing homeowners to do plumbing but even that is a grey area if inspections occur.

Sadly, you have little recourse against an ornery inspector, just say yes sir, no sir, and get him out the door. Starting a pi**ing contest generally leaves you in a far worse position.

Mark

As long as the work is properly inspected, you're probably right about homeowners being allowed to do their own work. There are people though that have far more confidence than ability or sense. If they kill themselves as a result of incompetence or overconfidence, well, Darwinian principles at work. If they take others with them though....................

[Mark Bolton]

As long as the work is properly inspected, you're probably right about homeowners being allowed to do their own work. There are people though that have far more confidence than ability or sense. If they kill themselves as a result of incompetence or overconfidence, well, Darwinian principles at work. If they take others with them though....................

This is why I have always *somewhat* agreed with many areas ruling that plumbing is not allowed by the homeowner at all. While it is possible to affect others with poor framing, bad wiring, and the like, generally speaking your negligence will more often than not only effect your property or your self. There are of course countless scenarios where it will effect others but... Where as with plumbing the philosophy is that you can easily effect your neighbors with things like cross connections, anti-siphon/back flow situations, as well as create a very very powerful bomb out of a improperly installed water heater.

Even with that I think its perfectly acceptable for a state, perhaps like CT, to allow you to do your own work (plumbing) provided you can get a licensed individual to oversee and stand the inspection for you. Many states however simply do not allow homeowners to do any wiring, any plumbing, and then try to make other things difficult. This is usually (in my opinion) due to pressure from contractors trying to hoard the work for themselves.

Not a good reputation for the rest of us in the trade in my opinion.

Mark

[Thomas Bank]

The unfortunate thing is that I see all too much questionable work done by "professionals" to agree that homeowners should not be allowed to do their own work. A homeowner willing to learn and ask questions will likely spend more time doing something right than a "professional" eager to get the job finished so he can clock out and go home.

Not to say that there aren't homeowners that are a danger to themselves and anyone within a half mile of them nor that there aren't tradesmen whose work is worth its weight in gold.

As an architect, I have more background in such things than the average homeowner. When I wired my workshop (1600 s.f., 200amp panel, and dedicated wiring for welders and plasma cutters) the inspector was more than a little brusque when he first came out. "Wire this yourself? I'll let you know I've already failed two professional jobs this morning" was his first statement to me. But as he went over things, I could see his attitude change. I had taken the time to read the applicable codes and understand them and also to do things neatly. I had his respect by the end. He shared one of his "failures" from earlier that morning - the "professionals" that a woman had hired to put in a new ceiling fan had apparently run out of wire, "borrowed" an extension cord from the homeowner, and used that to wire the ceiling fan. They would have gotten away with it except that the woman asked the inspector if he knew when the electricians would replace her extension cord... When he looked at her blankly she said "The one they wired the ceiling fan with." So at that point he took the fan down and discovered they had indeed used an extension cord to run power from the fan back
to the panel.

I've seen similar things from about every trade from electrical to plumbing to structural work.

To get back on topic, I ran two 220V circuits through my woodworking shop with multiple outlets with no problem. As my woodshop is on the second floor, I did not need to have the GFCI required in basements and first floor garages for even the 110V circuits, but the 220V circuits are exempt from the requirement anyway.

[Dave Verstraete]

Well, it looks like I can put 3 receptacles on one circuit then:D. Off I go to Lowes

Thank You to All for the advice